The Mutiny on Moraine Cay
10 April 2016 | Allans-Pennsacola Cay
We are anchored at Allans-Pennsacola Cay, having sailed here yesterday from Moraine Cay, where we had a terrible night that engendered longing thoughts of our king-sized bed at home.
Both Moraine and Allans are somewhat-remote northern Abaco cays well off the beaten track. We are continuing our jagged route north with the ambition of seeing the Abacos all the way to Walker's Cay in the extreme northwest.
But those are plans, just plans. And if there's one thing we are learning out here is that when when Man plans, God laughs. Moraine Cay was a case in point. It was perhaps the most beautiful anchorage we have seen yet, right off a beach, protected from prevailing winds by a reef. The great thing about being protected by a reef is that you just look out over the reef to the ocean beyond. I had a feeling of being on the edge of the world.
But there was a catch. The anchorage is completely open to the south. Winds were forecast to be west, with a slight jog for 3 hours to the SW. We crossed our fingers and hoped for the best because we REALLY wanted to come here and how bad could it be? You probably know where this is going.
We enjoyed a beautiful Abaco day of exploring, swimming. Our friends, Fred and Wendy, got out the paddleboards, then got to work cleaning their bottom. Then came the wind shift - not 5-10kts as forecast, but 15kts steady for SEVEN HOURS. Aria rollie-pollied all night, with pans clanging, drawers sliding and every little stowed item rocking back and forth, back and forth until you think you will go mad. It also turned out that there was significant current through the "anchorage," so Aria found all kinds of crazy angles to the wind. At one point we were stern-to-stern with Brown-Eyed Girl beside us. We were up on deck, shouting across the water over the howling wind and through the blackness, shining flashlights in each others' eyes trying to figure what the hell was going on.
I got maybe 3 hours of restless sleep. I did not want to be on a boat in the Abacos. I wanted to be home in my king-sized bed. In the morning, the wind had shifted back to the west but by then, a full-on mutiny was afoot from Tammy and Wendy. Moraine Cay was not a cay at all, but a Siren of lore, luring us onto the rocks and we should flee at once. Technically, I'm not sure it can be a mutiny if the captain is involved, but anyway, we weighed anchor and sailed 7nm to nearby Allans-Pennsacola. Here we enjoyed a blissful calm night of sleep with harbor-like protection from the 20kts northerlies that are now blowing. Yep, another cold front.
Today we are catching up on work, the blog. Oh, and sleep.