The next morning, over breakfast, we begin to plan our first destination. From Gothenburg, we decide to go to very popular Marstrand. The landscape of Western Sweden is distinctive with large round rock formations and deep-water passages in between. You can travel an inner path between the main land and the rocky islands or choose the outer path with is unobstructed way offshore. We selected the inner path with its varied landscapes and rocky formations for its wilderness and fascinating views.

Our sail in moderate wind was delightful to Marstrand. We dropped anchor just outside the town late that afternoon. Marstarand has a historic fort that is worth visiting and takes several hours to fully explore. We spent the next day exploring it and then walking around town. It is a very popular tourist destination and we shared the charms of the town with many of them that day.

Our next destination northward was the city of Lysekil. The historic large stone church is a visual landmark as you approach it. The anchorage area was north of the city; the southern side had open guest slips in the city marina. We used the city marina to unload bikes and do some needed provisioning. Our exploration of Lysekil led us to hiking the Pink Granite natural reserve called Stangehuvuds. The wilderness hiking trails are well marked and take you over, around and through large rock formations that sit high above the sea. The views and solitude of sitting on a large round rocks with wind and sea around you was so memorable.

We sailed up and down the Gullmarn fjord to anchor in the charming village of Fiskebackskil. The anchorage is a large protected cove that ties to the narrow bay leading along the length of the village. Walking into town we stop in our tracks as we see a State of Maryland flag fluttering high from one of the houses in the village. We walk looking for the house and asking locals about who has a Maryland flag in their yard. We learn that an American retired Physician had recently moved with his wife to the village. The next day we continue trying different streets and paths to find the house with the American. Finally a local points to the correct path telling us to find the yellow house. As we round the corner we could here the Maryland accent from a balcony above. We ask if that is a Maryland accent we hear? He smiles broadly and says why of course it is. We point to the fluttering Maryland flag in his yard and he says to us that he put it up just for us. We laugh and comment on how small the world really is.

While exploring we also discovered that we could hike or bike to the next village of Grundsund to the south. We took a day to bike and explore Grundsund. It was very worthwhile to see the charming cottages on the inner canals of this small village. Our plan was perhaps a day or two in Fiskebackskil we ended up staying for four. It is a good thing that sailing plans are always drawn in the sand at low tide.

We planned the next destination to the sea town of Smogen. We arrived in late afternoon and anchored in a protected all around cove surrounded by rocky hills near by. Our plan was to go into the town and tie-up for the day at the city wall. The following day we spent the day exploring the town of Smogen with its busy shopping and many restaurants full of tourist crowds. There were boats coming and leaving all day and as soon as we were ready to leave several boats were hovering to take our place for the night.

Traveling northward, we motored through the Sotekanalen canal and then Strandbacken canal. The Strandbacken was more interesting and picturesque than the narrow bare stone walls of Sotekanalen. After that we arrived at the historic town of Fjallbacka. We discovered while exploring Fjallbaka that the great actress Ingrid Bergman had spent her summers near there on her private island home. When she died, her ashes were scattered in the bay there. The town dedicated the town square to her with a statue of her bust and renaming the square after her. It was truly fascinating to see period photographs of Ingrid walking the town streets were we now stood.

Our next destination north was the town of Grebbestad. Our thinking was to secure the boat and bike to the near by Vitlycke Museum where prehistoric rock carvings can be seen. Unfortunately the Grebbestad city marina was full and the bay offered poor anchoring choices in heavy boat traffic in and out of the narrow area. We elected to move to a secluded sheltered area as the wind was strengthening for the night. Anchored quietly in the lee of a high cliff with one small red summer sea shack in our view, we spent a relaxing night. The following morning we abandoned our Vitlycke Museum plans and decided to move northward to our next destination with the fresh breeze.

We set sail northward to the Koster islands national park. The Koster Islands are comprised of the large North Koster and South Koster islands with many smaller islands. The North Koster is less developed and offers more nature. The South Koster has the Marine Nature Center. While visiting the Marine center we learned that the sea area surrounding the Koster Islands has unique cold water corals as well as many other marine life adapted to the cold deep waters of the North Sea. The Koster Islands have very few cars allowed and encourage walking and biking everywhere.

Two weeks had now flown by and we were at the top of Sweden near Norway. With an eye on the weather it was time to begin the trip south. With Southwesterly breeze we tacked our way south all day to arrive late afternoon at the U shaped lagoon on the island of Gluppo. On the charts it looked like a quiet secure place to drop anchor for the night. When we arrived, we found it to be a very popular and crowded anchorage. We squeezed our selves and anchored just for the night.

The following morning we left early and continued south to the town of Ellos. Ellos is where Hallberg Rassy boats are built. The marina is welcoming to any Hallberg Rassy boat as long as there are available slips. The company was closed for the month of July summer holiday. We pulled into a slip and went exploring the small town of Ellos.

The following day we continues south to the island of Ockero just outside the entrance up river to Gothenburg.

It was now early Friday morning and our flight back was on Sunday. We wanted to spend time in Stockholm before leaving Sweden. We thanked our generous hosts for sharing their lovely boat and Sweden with us and hopped on the morning bus from Ockero to Gothenburg. Arriving at the Gothenburg central bus terminal we purchased tickets for the late morning bus to Stockholm. While at the bus terminal we had free Wi-Fi, we were able to find an excellent room and rate in the heart of Stockholm on Expedia.

We arrived Friday late afternoon in Stockholm and checked into our hotel. Saturday was a full exploration day for us. We planned a bus tour of the city followed by a boat tour. Stockholm is an archipelago of many islands connected by many bridges. It must be seen from the land and water to appreciate it fully. The tours took us into early afternoon. We then selected to tour the Royal Palace. We were still exploring and touring the Palace as the staff was announcing closing of the Palace for the day. We reluctantly left feeling that the Royal Palace tour should have been a full day on its own. Next time we will plan it that way we told our selves.

Sunday was check out time and travel to the airport for our flight home. Three weeks for sailing Sweden west coast were not enough at all. It could have easily been three months or more. We now understand how the sailors from Norway and Sweden spend their summer vacation sailing up and down this western coast. It is a special place full of nature, coves, hidden places, rocky formations, winding paths, and picturesque views. It was a wetting of our appetite to taste this iconic coast that is called Bohuslän for its wild wilderness and unique sea beauty.

Nice to get away and sail in light winds from Annapolis to Oxford. The highlight of the passage was seeing Pride of Baltimore with full sails passing us by.

We covered the 640 NM from Chespeake Bay gate to St. Georges cut in 4 days. The passage their was beam reach sailing all the way. It was a memorable sail to say the least. The return passage required more strategic hunting for tge winds. We started with a stationary high and no wind for first 24 hours. We hunted for predicted northerly wind at higher latitudes. Once we found them, we sailed due west towards US. On the third and fourth days, wind shifted to south easterly and strengthened. We still managed to cover the 640 NM is 4 days as well.

Our 4 week cruise to Bermuda and back is now over. Funny how we thought that four weeks would be enough. That some how we would be able to do all the things we wanted and could do on this enchanted isleland in that short time. I know understand why they grant visiting yachts a 3 month stay and will happily grant another 3 months should you ask for it. I can imagine a 6 months stay there now. With monthly bus/ferry pass, you can go and do every where and see so much of this small atoll in the deep Atlantic Ocean. This was only a small taste to wet our appetite.

What a sea view of some of the island bays and beaches.

Lovely tour of light house and then Horse Shoe Bay.