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From Grand Cayman to Bocas, Panama w/MarkJ and Christian
20140530 - 0610

We said we would show them Hell - or what it looks like- and so we did, actually twice.

Our dear friends MarkJ and Christian arrived in Grand Caymans Friday May 30th. We were sooo happy to see them. MarkJ said he was looking forward to "partying with us". I said, oh, a good time to "have a party". We bought him some special gifts for his pre-50th party, and celebrated after they unpacked and unloaded some needed shipments they brought with them - it was surely Christmastime, in May.
Chillout evening at the marina admiring massive fish caught from the weekend fishing tournament, and then a walk on 7 mile beach, dinner ashore. And, just catching up on each other's lives.

Next day, a Snorkeling day. And a good one. We ventured to Cemetery Beach, north of the marina, where we snorkeled and saw many parrotfish, huge tarpons, tiny wahoo, triggerfish, barracuda and then to the famed Calli shipwreck. After naps and then chillin at the marina pool, we made our way out to a resto called Casanovas, and enjoyed a great Italian feast served by an entertaining flamboyant Italian waiter, go figure.

The following day we took a driving tour of the island, and, we showed them Hell, or what it looks like. Located on the West Bay of the island, Hell is a spectacle of nature, a group of short, black, limestone formations, roughly the size of half a soccer field. Unfortunately, the little shack of a bar was closed, so we walked to the viewing platform. This area was once part of the sea, but now the formations are all that remain. A site just like you would imagine Hell to look like. More touring, drinks at the Marriot, back to the Marina, for more socializing, dinner, cards, and music.

We departed for our Voyage to Bocas, Panama in the early afternoon on Monday June 2. We checked out with Immigrations and customs, and said our goodbyes to Bella the Marina cat who was now taken in by the wait staff for a better home. Toby, our friendly bartender waved us a farewell and a safe journey. We first sailed to Stingray City, in the northern Bay of Grand Cayman. We were anxious to swim in the sea and pet these docile creatures, but not this time. It was quite wavy, with strong currents, and a huge challenge to swim out to the area where you stand in the sea and feed them their favorite... calamaries. I returned to the boat halfway out because of the strong waves and current, and suddenly heard our boys yelling and flinging the entire box of calamaries. They frantically scurried back to the boat, and we noticed MarkS had a huge hickey on his left love handle. These stingrays were aggressive and sucking up anything in their way, and sucked a piece of him as well. Fortunately, Mark had a quick-dry tshirt on, so he was lightly abrased, but bruised badly.

Back on board, we decided to begin our voyage, as this anchorage was not so pleasant. Of course, as usual, I was quite nervous, as the winds and waves were forecasted to be strong and tall. We spent the first two days of what I call Hell, bouncing around in up to 10 foot seas, up to 25-30 knots - sailing a close reach and then a beam reach with several reefs in the main and genny. I was ready to jump ship, but all the boys were loving it, especially seeing my contorted frightened face. We all had little sleep and most times slept in the salon, due to the crashing sounds in our cabins below that make it difficult to get some rest. The first night's shift was not so structured, but the following two nights were... MarkJ and Christian napped after dinner, On 10pm to 2am watch, Marks and Rita on 2am to 6am watch, and the final one MarkJ and Christian 6am to est 9 or 10am. Naps intermittent with reading in the day, alternating watches.

So, now I know why they say sailors are salty. For most of the trip, aVida, and we, were drenched with salt from the waves crashing over the hulls. And, even taking a shower was too dangerous in these conditions, so we went unbathed the entire voyage. We all were so looking forward to hitting land, with a good refreshing shower, and clean clothes.

All the boys were early risers. There was lots of humor when they awoke, and their privates did too. I was fortunate, 3 hot men aboard and early apparent risers. What began as Hell turned out to be my Heaven. Yeah!!

I must say we taught MarkJ and Christian well. For the three nights' voyage, we played Eucher every afternoon and evening before the night watches kicked in. Mark and I were usually frequent winners, but soon they both ramped up and we were the losers many times toward the end of the voyage.

For the third day and night, the huge waves subsided, but the winds did not. So, we sailed and reached up to 13.3 knots speed! Several maintenance issues popped up, like usual. We lost our motoring lights, our starboard nav light was flakey, our starboard engine was leaking oil, starboard dagger dragging, some hatches leaking water, starboard head was failing, and iffy charts for the Nicaraguan coastal area. No problem though. Mark added items to his ever increasing task list, dug out the paper charts to avoid shoals, and motored with the port engine only to help increase our speed, along with the genny and main as the winds decreased.

We arrived safely at Bocas Marina mid afternoon the fourth day, after a very wet and rainy entry. It felt like we were home again, as we have been here before several years ago on our voyages from Chile to the Carribean. Josito the Marina dog I befriended before was there to greet us. We fervently cleaned our cabins, changed our stinky sheets, and then hosed ourselves down, as aVida was already hosed down due to the pouring rains. Tired and exhausted, we celebrated with our favorite welcome drink.... A fruit smoothie with rum. That evening we spent socializing with other cruisers and locals, enjoyed live music, and a BBQ dinner at the Cantina.

The morning after our arrival, Customs and Immigrations boarded aVida to review our legal documents, checked us in, and searched the boat for any illegal stuff we never carry. We thought we'd left a pricey country behind back in the Cayman Islands, but apparently not this day. To get us cleared with customs, immigrations, etc, it cost us a barrage of officials on board for an hour, and a hefty $700!

On our last day together, we took the advice of the Marina mechanical guru Jeff and visited "Blue Coconut" on Isla Solarte (formerly "Cayo Nancy") via a 20 minute dinghy ride to the north of Bocas. The weather was calm and sunny, and the snorkeling was great.... Lots of schools of smaller fish, and vibrant healthy coral. Of course, once you park your dinghy and snorkel the area for awhile, you are ready for a cold drink and some local Caribbean food at the resto perched right above the snorkeling site.

That night, we had dinner ashore and back to the boat for music and cards. Mark regrettably brought out his clarinet. He once was quite good ages ago, but that night he sounded like a rooster in pain. MarkJ could not hear anymore of it, saying he "wanted to shove that horn up his....." You get what I mean.

Final day, a water taxi and walk to the tiny Bocas airport, where we said our warm goodbyes.

Well, we showed our friends Hell - or what it may look or be like. As always, they certainly showed us a piece of Heaven, with much good humor and companionship. We welcome them back again, and will remember all the great memories from our voyages and experiences together. Adios Amigos, until the next time.