Anguilla

We weren't going to stop at Anguilla but the weather was such that an extra day of waiting would make the run to the BVI much easier. Besides, the western most part of Anguilla was closer, making the BVI run easier. Unlike most of the other volcanic islands, Anguilla is a very low and flat but graced by long white beaches and good diving just offshore. It has also had a colorful political past. This from the Doyle Guide to the Leeward Islands:

"In 1967, Britain lumped Anguilla with St. Kitts and Nevis and made them an autonomous state. This awkward bit of parceling conveniently filed them away for the British Colonial Office, but ignored both social and geographical realities. Anguillans were dead set against this arrangement and wanted to remain with England. They rebelled against the rule of St. Kitts' Premier Bradshaw who told them he "would show them who was boss"and threatened to "turn Anguilla into a desert." An amazing armed rebellion followed in which there were only minor casualties and no fatalities. The Anguillan rebels would open fire on the police station - manned from St. Kitts - at all hours of the night or day until the police were quite unnerved. A large armed crowd then gave the police an ultimatum to leave the island and they blocked the runway to prevent reinforcements arriving.
The Anguillans, fearing an armed invasion from St. Kitts, decided to take the offensive and invade St. Kitts themselves. A small boatload of men went down, aided by two American mercenaries. The invasion was a complete fiasco. A big hole got blown in the ground near the defense force headquarters and there was a shoot-out at a police station. There were no casualties. However, after that, no one in St. Kitts really wanted to mess with the Anguillans.
Several Americans thought up fancy schemes to help the Anguillans finance their island, and in 1969 Britain, under the mistaken impression that the island had been taken over by the Mafia, invaded. Armed men waded ashore onto the beaches to be met by goats and curious small boys. After the embarrassment died down, Anguillans got what they wanted and are again administered by the British."


We sailed to a place called Little Bay which has a small pocket beach perhaps 100 feet wide surrounded by dramatic cliffs and caves, dotted with Turks Head cactus and other more typically lush shrubs. Pelicans roost in the sturdy small trees that grow right out of the cliff face. The cliffs themselves are streaked with reds, golds, and browns and tumble straight down into that amazing turquoise water. We only spent a day here but could have easily spent more. Sue's photo above.

We sailed off the mooring and drifted out from behind the cliffs and into the breeze. Dog Island was our destination and is the western most part of Anguilla. Dog is uninhabited but has a long and spectacular crescent beach of creamy white sand. We arrived in rain however and sat inside waiting for a break. One came and we went topside blinking in the bright sun. After deciding to go ashore for pics, we gathered up our gear and got in the dink but didn't get 10 strokes away from the boat before the clouds swallowed up the sun again. More rain. When the next break seemed to be moving our way we were ready and zoomed ashore ahead of it. This break seemed like a much bigger one and I made the mistake of luxuriating in it for the first few minutes ashore. Soon the clouds grew and spread again and I never really got a good shot here. We had decided to make an overnight run to the BVI so went back aboard and made ready.

We sailed into the growing sunset and played with sail combinations, trying to find one that would get us in by morning, but not in the dark of pre-dawn. There was a narrow pass to negotiate that had some unmarked rocks awash mid-channel that were named The Blinders.

There was no moon that night and although there were still some clouds, the stars were brilliant. Later, the Milky Way rose up and was so bright and dramatic that Sue was sure it was just clouds being lit by the larger cities back on St. Martin. Several other boats, both power and sail, were also making the run to the BVI and we could see their running lights scattered around the horizon. Some were moving slightly ahead, some holding back, but all seeming to time their arrival for early morning. Stars below us in the form of phosphorescence completed our private galaxy that evening.

Somehow, I was not particularly looking forward to the BVI, perhaps remembering how crowded the anchorages were the last time I was there. As it turned out, it was one of our favorites.