20 th Aug 2014
The busy village of Lolowai Logoon had the binoculars in a tail spin, a barge arrived unloading many people and supplies given hand over hand to the waiting throng ashore. A little way up the beach another barge unloaded guests waving and delivering wares to god knows where beyond the jungle of trees to neighbouring villages. Ashore we found a very dark store selling bread, and a small market with a nice bunch of corn and a home made basket with capsicum. A NZ expat was on contract to an aide agency here helping rebuild a shop and residence, and he told us of his frustration to get the job done with limited helpers with skills. So we gave him some saws/sandpaper/shirts and hats, so that he may be able to offer them to the helpers and get the job done quicker! He was thrilled to bits but was unsure if it would make any difference to the speed. Well at least he had something to trade if he needed some nails! From there we slid out at high tide to make Maewo island to the East and got a really good feel for the 35-40 kt s/e trade wind blowing up the guts of Vanuatu! So we snuck along the jungle skyscraper Island of Maewo to the end, and arrived in Asanvari bay for shelter. Wow what a treat! A cascade of water falling next to the Sparkling Waters bar! So we booked for a fish and prawn dinner with the other yacht in the bay. We found out that we are the 3rd yacht for the season so we feel very privileged. On anchor Sam sat with the binoculars held almost swinging full circle on the anchor with the tide, well at least he did not get bored with the view!
Visiting the land dive tower at Pentacost was amazing, the guys dive from different hights until the last high tower at the top. It is a huge tourist draw card, its unfortunate that the dive site has been moved closer to the airport to accommodate the tourists! There was a ceremony of pig, fish and local vegies where we were presented with hand made baskets from the ladies before we were to have a hastily arranged race across to Ambrym Island from Pentacost. The 2 yachts were neck and neck all the way, it was great fun for us, but devastating for the village who were expecting many yachts to attend and had been preparing for weeks. The village had been sprung cleaned within an inch of its life. Chief Luke could not work out where all the yachts had gone, so we tried cheerfully to appreciate everything they had done. It was small consolation though to the villagers who lined the foreshore as we circled around and then sped off. We could not work out the finish line so in good sporting style we declared the race equal and settled with sundowners on the black sandy beach with Freddie and his family at Rannon Bay. Ambrym is known for its great wood carvers, and Sam and I managed more by good luck than anything to strike a deal on the beach with a local carver who had beautiful work of Blackbean hardwood in his backpack! We swapped some vatu, magnifying glasses, soap, saws and 2 boat ropes. By the look on his face, he felt he had the deal of the century, he could now tie up his cow that had kept wandering onto his vegie patch! From there we have dribbled on to Port Sandwich and currently we are in Laman bay Epi Island hoping to see the resident dugong so promised in the Lonely Planet. But I think he has gone on holidays!
From the overcast and humid deck,
Carol and Sam