On the 26th August Dave arrived full of enthusiasm for the return journey from Port Villa back to Australia via New Caledonia. His culinary skills had been well practiced prior to his arrival, so there was a renewed zest for the local fare and quisine! Carol flew home knowing the boat and captain were in safe hands. They departed under a fair sky as is customary for such a journey, a flat sea was ensured for 2 days to the Loyalty Islands where the barometer went a bit murky, it drizzled and became cool. The beautiful beach at Ouvea was not so inviting, so they sailed south west entered the reef of the logoon and arrived in Noumea New Caledonia. Once passing customs and immigration going in and out of the country, they rested before continuing on to Australia. There were no incidents to report on the way home. A tuna and a Mahi Mahi satisfied their sporting needs and tastes. The radio chatter entertained their minds as customs talked to the Pacific Dawn on its way to Brisbane. Dave managed to read a book while the wind blew 35+kts for 24hrs, so he has now become legendary status! All was in good order as they tied up in Bundaberg and prepared for their flight home.
Much to reflect on and much to be thankful for as we remember this journey, and the previous 3 months.

24th Aug 1014
From Epi Island we had strong winds which pushed us all the way to Havannah Harbout just short of Port Villa where we recovered from the thought of loosing a big Mahi Mahi as we rounded the headland into the bay. I nearly had to tie Sam on as it flipped its tail and slid off the back step just inches away from the BBQ! So it was plan “B” for dinner, we anchored along the mainland side of the bay and ventured ashore to find the Wahoo bar which seemed very popular for those who do the day tour around the Island from Port Villa. The next morning the Roosters woke us early as usual, we reefed the main and got smashed by the 35-40kt wind coming around into Port Villa harbour. The local inter Island ferry full of people thought we were great entertainment and waved and jostled for the guard rail as Sam cranked the motor up and we sailed passed. Later we spoke to the crew and they told us there were cattle on board for a weekend wedding, we watched in amazement as they tied the cows legs together and lifted it off with the falk lift on to the back of a ute!
Our dinghy had to nudge in and tie up next to the P&O on the wharf to access customs at Port Villa where we waited island time for the Customs officer to return from the airport to discuss crew changes and requirements for themselves and Immigration. Looks like more waiting and letter writing coming up after the weekend. We have provisioned up and Sam is plotting the course and checking the weather for the return trip later this week.
To those who have so patiently read our ramblings and adventure into waters unknown, we will see you soon. Tankyu tumas
From No 11 Mooring at Yachting World Port Villa
Carol and Sam

20 th Aug 2014
The busy village of Lolowai Logoon had the binoculars in a tail spin, a barge arrived unloading many people and supplies given hand over hand to the waiting throng ashore. A little way up the beach another barge unloaded guests waving and delivering wares to god knows where beyond the jungle of trees to neighbouring villages. Ashore we found a very dark store selling bread, and a small market with a nice bunch of corn and a home made basket with capsicum. A NZ expat was on contract to an aide agency here helping rebuild a shop and residence, and he told us of his frustration to get the job done with limited helpers with skills. So we gave him some saws/sandpaper/shirts and hats, so that he may be able to offer them to the helpers and get the job done quicker! He was thrilled to bits but was unsure if it would make any difference to the speed. Well at least he had something to trade if he needed some nails! From there we slid out at high tide to make Maewo island to the East and got a really good feel for the 35-40 kt s/e trade wind blowing up the guts of Vanuatu! So we snuck along the jungle skyscraper Island of Maewo to the end, and arrived in Asanvari bay for shelter. Wow what a treat! A cascade of water falling next to the Sparkling Waters bar! So we booked for a fish and prawn dinner with the other yacht in the bay. We found out that we are the 3rd yacht for the season so we feel very privileged. On anchor Sam sat with the binoculars held almost swinging full circle on the anchor with the tide, well at least he did not get bored with the view!
Visiting the land dive tower at Pentacost was amazing, the guys dive from different hights until the last high tower at the top. It is a huge tourist draw card, its unfortunate that the dive site has been moved closer to the airport to accommodate the tourists! There was a ceremony of pig, fish and local vegies where we were presented with hand made baskets from the ladies before we were to have a hastily arranged race across to Ambrym Island from Pentacost. The 2 yachts were neck and neck all the way, it was great fun for us, but devastating for the village who were expecting many yachts to attend and had been preparing for weeks. The village had been sprung cleaned within an inch of its life. Chief Luke could not work out where all the yachts had gone, so we tried cheerfully to appreciate everything they had done. It was small consolation though to the villagers who lined the foreshore as we circled around and then sped off. We could not work out the finish line so in good sporting style we declared the race equal and settled with sundowners on the black sandy beach with Freddie and his family at Rannon Bay. Ambrym is known for its great wood carvers, and Sam and I managed more by good luck than anything to strike a deal on the beach with a local carver who had beautiful work of Blackbean hardwood in his backpack! We swapped some vatu, magnifying glasses, soap, saws and 2 boat ropes. By the look on his face, he felt he had the deal of the century, he could now tie up his cow that had kept wandering onto his vegie patch! From there we have dribbled on to Port Sandwich and currently we are in Laman bay Epi Island hoping to see the resident dugong so promised in the Lonely Planet. But I think he has gone on holidays!
From the overcast and humid deck,
Carol and Sam

12th August 2014
Our change of anchorage overnight proved interesting. The other side of the bay while free of roll, was hit hard by 25kts+ and roared all night! We had our dinghy up ready to go, but were far enough out to be out of harms way although we were on a lee shore! As it eased next morning we ventured ashore to top up the digicel usage for phone and internet, went to the market and had a great pizza at the Beachfront resort run by an Aussie guy in thongs with a VB Beer in hand (What!) While listening to the Vanuatu net we found out that Pacific Fuel had dumped some bad petrol in Vanuatu during the past 2 weeks, we think we are ok, but will keep a close eye and hope we do not need any more. We had an interesting time returning from shore after shopping, the wind had picked up and the tide was coming in, dinghy had been rolling about madly. We got wet to the waist, had to get the oars out and row away from the shore before starting the motor as it was too rough, we lost our anchor as we pulled the rope in and then got bloody rained on! Nice one! Well at least the dunny rolls stayed dry!
We awoke feeling part of the flotsam and jetsum soup of the bay, the wind still blowing strong and still on a lee shore so we ventured on to calmer waters at Nth Peterson bay behind Oyster Island about 12 nm nth of Luganville. As suggested the Oysters are supposed to be good here, Sam will check them out later ,but alas they were all eaten on the weekend, as was the eggs and bacon! So instead we had a dinghy ride up to the “Blue Hole”it was like going up the Amazon, vines hanging, tropical plants everywhere and at the end of the 1.5k a beautiful blue swimming area with jungle vines to jump off (If you felt you had to!) and ladders up the Banyan trees. Once again today we are seeing the locals transport copra, this time on a small barge from Oyster Island to be picked up by ute to be taken to port. For humour, how much do you think Sam’s bunch of banana’s cost in the picture, please read on??
Sam and I checked out the coral gardens nxt day in the dinghi and Sam dived on the prop of a sunken sea plane from WW11 before sliding over the reefs at high tide heading for Ambae Island to the east. Ambae has volcanic lakes that froth and bubble from time to time keeping Volcanologists the world over on their toes. As we entered the lagoon that is an extinct volcanoe with its side blown out to seaward, we kept a close eye on the depth as we slid in with barely 1.9 under the keel. The weather is expected to blow up by Friday where we hope to be at Pentacost Island where the locals dive from high towers on vines. ( unfortunately we missed this event, it is during the wet season)
OK Sam’s bananas cost 400vt, the same as 3 coconuts, and a short taxi ride! That’s about 50c Aus, but ours also cost a dinghi anchor and 2 pairs of thongs as we left them on the beach!
That’s it from the Pacific rim of fire!
Carol and Sam

8th August 2014
We continued along Malakula Island to Port Stanley where we literally surfed in at 8kts scattering flying fish in all directions. Dropping 70 mtrs of chain was a little daunting amongst the reefs and short of the bommie line of Sakau Island. But it held fast and we were able to watch the loading of Copra with cargo nets from a small barge to a freighter off Litslits and the wharf of Lakatoro. They loaded all night! No doubt no overtime here! From there the steady south east trades took us to Luganville on Espiritu Santo Island where the Americans were during the battle of the Pacific in 1945, Million dollar point a testament to their departure where there is millions of dollars worth of discarded machinery now making an artificial reef for some of the best diving in the world. Luganville while exposed to the trade winds is a neat town not as busy as Port Villa, the wide streets we assume made by the Americans have nice but old shops, and the same scattering of chinese shops, local supermarkets and Ni-Van music to keep us jolly while we shop. For those interested, Vanuatu's economy runs on most things starting with "C" - Copra, Coffee, Cocoa, Cattle, Cruise ships, and recently Cheap labour for agriculture in NZ and in a smaller way Australia. Last evening we made our way across the bay and took up a mooring in front of the "Aore Resort" on Aore Island, we chatted to the Marine Biologists aboard "Ocean Watch" as they told us of their job to educate the locals of the devastating effects of the crown of thorns star fish. Today we will kayak around the sheltered reef, and watch the tourists come and go, maybe have a Vanuatu beef burger and check out the best anchorages north. Maybe Champagne Beach or Oyster bay?
From the Resort.
Carol and Sam

4th August 2014
We sailed to Port Sandwich in good company with another Catamaran 43ft owned by a Swedish family, they just beat us into the harbour to settle down amongst 10 other yachts from various countries here in time for the weekend of festivities at the local village, which is held once a year.We were transported overland about 5 rough kms in the back of a truck on a one track road through a few villages to the town centre. We were given displays of local dancing, customs, and crafts by the men on the Saturday and it was ladies day on the Sunday to show their talents of Lap Lap, basket weaving, dancing, games, and other craft. Lunch was a fiest of all the local produce, accompanied by the school kids and then the skinny dogs that seem to appear from everywhere! The mens dancing of the local small Nambus tribe was physical, earth beating, with a well practiced rhythm that has been practiced since the 18th century. The guys then changed and became the very upbeat local string band of 7 guitars and a box made base, they were awesome and played and sang most of the afternoon, had a quick Kava or two and were still playing as we drove off into the sunset on a truck! The ladies amomgst us by this time were all wearing Island dresses, and the boys were laced with Kava and Tusker beer which they drank with the Chief Romeo! A handsome 30yr old single guy who took his role with pride and had much respect amongst his tribal members. Sam was interested in the agriculture and so we were given a tour of the copra making and the cocoa trees, cocoa is produced here and sold to Europe and Singapore. They receive 30vt/kg, just for comparisons sake, it is 300vt for a Tusker beer! I will allow you to make your own conclusions on that?
This morning the inter island barge has departed and the dug out canoes are ferrying their locally grown vegetables to the market on the foreshore, we are checking weather faxs, and listening to the Vanuatu net radio. Our track north through these beautiful islands continues, tomorrow is a toss up either a little East to Ambrym or to continue along Malakula. (The dog Isalnd)
From the Dog Island
Carol and Sam