We just spent a month as Cambridge Cay Park Hosts. Read all about how "Banyan, Banyan..." was all the chatter on the radiowaves.

Cover Photo Credit : Michelle Torrie, SV Mahina

***

The first time we visited the Bahamas was in 2013, on our sailing journey southwards towards the Caribbean. We spent a total of six weeks here, which, given that there's over 1000 islands and cays here, didn't even scratch the surface, or dent the waves in sailspeak, of what the Bahamas has to offer. In fact, when we sometimes mention that we've been to the Bahamas, most people respond that they have as well, and how'd we like Nassau? But, oh, the Bahamas is SO much more...

When we returned from the Caribbean in 2016, we were on our way back to the States to give SV Banyan a minor refit, and again allowed for but a few weeks here. And once again breezed through this beautiful and magical place. These last few seasons however, have been all about the Bahamas, and one of our favourite areas is The Exumas.

The Exumas cover a very large area of well over 350 islands (called Cays), and one of the most magical spots is one of the 32 National Parks called the Exuma Land and Sea Park. Managed by the non-for-profit Bahamian National Trust the ECLSP in question is but a small area: 22 nautical miles long and 8 nautical miles wide. It is a piece of natural and magical beauty, as the beautiful and melodious voice of Cherry confirms every morning at 09:00 a.m., on VHF 16/09.



It is one of the largest protected marine preserves in the world and home to a wide array of marine life and endangered species, with some of the world's longest underwater caves and beautiful coral reefs. And the next time you're feasting on Grouper Fingers or Cracked Conch? Remember that approx 75% of the Nassau Grouper starts its life here, and think about size and saving the conch . And it is funded totally by donations and anchorage/mooring fees.

Each time we visit this place, we offer to volunteer some of our time. For example, one time we received a can of yellow spray paint and marked the various hiking trails. Next time we were graduated to machetes and hedge clippers and clearing trails. We would offer our time to do whatever it was that they needed help doing. We're Friends of the Park, an annual fee that in return provides us with two free mooring ball nights. However, this time we signed up to do something totally different. This time we were giving a month of our time to be Park Hosts at Cambridge Cay, located approximately 10 nm South of the the very famous Warderick Wells, depending how your boat draws or how the wind blows.

Unlike Warderick Wells, there is no Park Office here, and the area is not always managed by Park Hosts. When there are no Hosts, payments within the ECLSP are made at drop boxes found ashore and rely on Cruiser Honesty. In Cambrideg Cay, there are no reservations taken to be on a mooring ball. Those that have been here before will notice that the locations of the mooring balls have changed, with more balls planned to be added, and some big ball/small ball reorganization to happen.

The pennants/thimbles have all been inspected, secured and upgraded {{ and are now, yikes, extremely heavy duty. However, given some issues, that might be changing too!! }} ...



... and of course and as always, you can anchor in sandy spots on the South and West side and well clear of the mooring field area.

Of the 12 balls in the Cambridge Cay mooring field, two are designated for 100-150 foot vessels ONLY. The cost to be on a mooring ball is specific to boat size, $20 for less than 40 feet, $30 for less than 50 feet, etc... Historically ONLY boats over 90 feet paid to anchor ($1.00/foot/night) but for well over a year now, all boats are required to pay when anchored anywhere within the park, with those under 90 feet paying $0.50/foot/night.

So, we anticipated idyllic settings with beautiful days and splendid nights, and Mother Nature sure delivered, almost nightly.



We imagined we'd spend a little bit of time dinghying around from boat to boat collecting fees. We were looking forward to meeting cruisers from all wakes of water. We were planning on clearing some trails during our daily hikes. We were excited to speak from experience about the various swims and snorkels and hikes and kayaks we would get to do. And selfishly we were creating a list of boat chores that we would tackle during our month, 'cause you know... one month in one place!

When we arrived, we were the second boat in the mooring field. "Banyan, Banyan... " the VHF crackled to life, "this is the Park Warden on one six".

The Park has a new Warden, and you can read all about Brent Burrows II, here. He's as great in person as he is on paper and never seems to travel anywhere without the Bahamian Defence force. This time Joe and Nicola, Park Administrators, were with him as well. As they handed us our supplies,



they explained that over the last year the ECLSP implemented some changes and we were given a quick rundown of duties and new rules that needed to be enforced.

They pulled away, and within minutes of our receiving our name badges, paperwork, maps and receipt books, the action started.

"Banyan, Banyan..., I'm coming into Cambridge Cay requesting a mooring ball..." the VHF crackled to life.

We informed them it's a first come first serve and to pick any one of the small boat mooring balls and would they require assistance? Most said no at first, but when they tried lifting the new, very heavy duty thimbles, they couldn't, or dropped their hook, or broken their hook, and so they'd hail us back and could we help. Yes of course we would. Were they new to the Park? Yes, they were. Would they like some information? They sure would. So we'd scoot over, help them with their lines, make sure they knew how to properly tie up to a mooring ball, one line just won't do! We'd offer up maps and detailed information on what to see and do pending their likes, and reinforcing that this was a NO WAKE zone and the whole ECLSP a NO TAKE zone. And told them we'd be back in the late afternoon to collect their payment.



No sooner did we get back on-board and to whatever it was we were thinking of doing, the VHF would crackle to life. Again.

"Banyan, Banyan..."

Cruisers come here for two reasons: to enjoy the Park, or to hide from those nasty cold fronts. And in our month here, we had four nasty fronts! Needless to say we were kept busy. Combine that with some new rules that need enforcing, and yikes... we can't remember what we did in the minutes that tick-tocked into hours between sunrise and sunset.

Three new NoWake buoys at both entrances to Cambridge Cay giving ample warning to enforce the 5 nm/hr NO WAKE policy. This includes everyone and has a zero tolerance level, for both cruisers and The Warden. We yelled ourselves hoarse on the VHF trying to let the speeding tour boats know, but with the amount of people onboard those boats that sped by with music blaring, it's no wonder they don't hear a thing. And we didn't want to get too vocal either as no one wants their idyllic Cambridge Cay peace disrupted. We especially made sure the big yachts knew that this rule applied to their tenders and sea-doos, so that this place can become a safe haven for swimmers and kayakers and snorkelers (and wildlife!). We suggested a Sécurité message to be announced, which was quickly worded up by the Warden and released the next day. On some days, the Warden would arrive in the shiny new police boat, but you know how that goes? Never a speeding boat in sight when there's lights and sirens nearby, is there?

That's okay, there's no lack of work for The Warden and crew. If they don't have their lights and sirens at the ready, or going after poachers, they're driving by doing daily rounds, or fixing things, as in the case of this broken mooring ball.



However, the hardest new rule to enforce was trying to keep the two large mooring balls free for large yachts only. We preferred to let incoming boats know before they reached the ball so that they wouldn't get all settled and be told they had to leave. That's no fun for anyone. When hailing them didn't work {{ I'd like to take a survey to on just how many cruisers out here drive around without their VHF radio on? }}, we would then have to dinghy over and let them know, usually arriving just as they were getting ready to pick up the penant. {{ I'd like to take another survey on how many people can't see or read the big bold black letters that clearly say "100-150 feet in length?" }}

In previous times, when nearing sunset, if the big boat balls weren't being used, small boats could come in and grab one, and so it wasn't unusual for boats to arrive at sunset anticipating doing this. However, some incidents transpired that made it necessary to change the rules. In fact, upon arrival we queried this rule with the Park Warden as well. Sometimes cruisers {{ including us }} don't know, or see, the big picture, or hear the crazy stories, and we're not here to gossip either, but at the end of the day, the big picture is that two big boat mooring balls are assigned for big boats only. Period.

After a month here, we began to see why this new rule proved to make sense. The big boats, like everyone else are allowed to be here, and like everyone else, need a safe haven to come to. We had a few come in seeking shelter and comfortable waters during the various weather fronts. And if they're left unused they provide a secondary use. Should there be a boat in distress, it's nice to know we have a ball to put them on. We should know, it happened twice during our month here.

Damn that "Banyan, Banyan... " Because of the new rules we needed to enforce, we were on the receiving end of quite some name calling. That's OK, we did our best to explain the whys and wherefore's. We explained that the Warden could and would explain as well, would they like to talk to him? Besides, our skin is pretty thick. People do say interesting things when they don't get to do what they want, when they want, how they want.

Some were indignant and professing ignorance of the new (now one year old) rules. Some wanted something in return for paying us to anchor. {{ Um, you're not paying us? You're paying the BNT, and see the new mooring balls and pennants and things? }} Did we have a bag of ice in exchange for their anchoring fee? {{ Um, sure let me check that freezer in my dinghy? }} Or better yet, could they leave us with their garbage? {{ sigh }} This park is 22 miles long... how long have you been here to have THAT much garbage that you can't keep it on your boat for another few days or a week or two before you head out of the designated areas and into a garbage zone? It's not like you're living here for a year!

Or for one character, dumping 8 bags of personal garbage on the private island of Cambridge Cay, and then offering up an obscene gesture when seen and photographed doing it? I don't understand he people can think that beautiful Mother Nature is their dumping ground?

Some paid, some said they would, and didn't. Some wanted a free night because "they didn't know the rules". Ignorance sure is bliss, ain't it? I don't understand how in planning your trip, you plan to go somewhere end not know it's a Park? Or, come to a Park and think the rules don't apply to you? And don't think you'll prove a point by confronting us to let us know exactly what you think about this place and why it should be run in the world according to you. You're in another country, a visitor here, in a National protected park, and we're just volunteers. Respect.

"Banyan, Banyan..." the VHF would crackle awake, and cruisers would enquire as to the state of the tide, which cut to use to arrive or exit, and sometimes we found ourselves providing weather updates.

"Banyan, Banyan..." and an invite to sundowners was extended. Given the timings of our duties, we missed a few of these, but got to attend a couple of that turned into great evenings, despite being "on call".

"Banyan, Banyan..." Cruisers would stop by and excitedly tell us about visiting the various places we'd told them about. How wonderful to get that feedback, see the smiles and awe on their faces.

We were Park Hosts and we sure hosted! We hosted cruisers hiding from weather.



We hosted cruisers that had been coming here for many more moons than us, to cruisers that were new to cruising, and new to the Bahamas. We hosted cruisers here for a night sleep on their way somewhere, to cruisers that were needing a spot to crash while they dealt with boat issues. We hosted boats with flags from different compass points of the world (and being multilingual, I was especially pleased that I was able to converse with some in their own languages: Slovenian, a greeting in German but mostly French, very très cool).

Given the weather, we only hosted two very special Sundowners on Sandy Spit (ECLSP prefers we organize get togethers on Sandy Spit, and given the influx of noseeums at sunset on a beach, we wholeheartedly agree that that is indeed the place to be), and the Super Blood Moon Eclipse didn't get its own Dinghy Drift as we had hoped we could.





We were Park Hosts and here to help, and help we did. We helped one large Mega Yacht with their mooring lines. {{ you don't realize just how small you are in your dinghy until you have a 133 foot yacht coming at you }}. We helped boats whose mooring lines did weird things to their boat in the winds and current and bridle configurations. We helped rescue a couple and their dinghy when their outboard quit, and they were paddling against the current and getting swept away. We helped a boat arriving in some distress, in the darkness of night, during the high winds and chop and surge and current, and no radio on, get to a mooring ball.

Incoming boat in distress to the left, and the little light to the right? Is Dave in the dinghy.



{{ Let me tell you, it's not easy watching my loved one go save someone else's loved one, be it boat or person.}}

And... Turtles !



With more boats mooring and less boats anchoring, the seabed is starting to bloom with turtle grass, and the turtles are back. There were no less than half a dozen to a dozen turtles around our boat. There were Remoras under our boat, visible signs of barracudas, even a lemon shark was spotted among the many nurse sharks. Every single day. In the special colours of dusk you might be lucky enough to see a ray jumping out of the water. The sergeant majors always overwhelm visitors when they jump into the Aquarium. Rocky Dundas Caves. Drift dives. HoneyMoon Beach.

Oh and Bell Rock,



have you clambered to the top? The Warden has, with the obligatory selfie up there to prove it, and please do so at low tide and your own risk!

Or, be like us and hike the Bluff Trail where it wasn't the first time that we almost lost our hats,



in all those crazy days of crazy winds, and rainstorms that ended in rainbows.



In exchange for our daily duties, we got a free month's stay here in Cambridge Cay, a couple runs to Staniel for provisions {{ that included a Hat Overboard and Successful Rescue }}, and some gasoline for our dinghy. We weathered a cold front a week, which made for hectic response to callings of "Banyan, Banyan...".

We cleared some paths



and along with other cruisers volunteering their time, bagged some garbage,



as the Park Warden has promised a barge is on its way to haul it away.

And before we knew it, our month in idyllic settings in beautiful and not so beautiful days was up. By the time the days were done we were talked out and exhausted, didn't get to do much {{ read, none! }} of our listed boat chores, and fell into bed way before cruisers midnight, too chatted out to even talk to each other.

This isn't just another place to anchor/moor, it is SO much more than that. This is a place that needs to be protected. It needs volunteers and can use all the donations it gets. It needs people to come and visit and contribute by paying a modest fee for the couple of nights here anchoring and/or mooring. It needs to be protected from the environment, from poachers {{ and ultimately maybe even from ourselves }}.

We entered this month excited to be Cambridge Cay Volunteer Hosts, and we left a month later, just as excited that we had been Cambridge Cay Volunteer Hosts. We came in with eyes wide closed. And left with hands full of boat cards, minds full of stories, eyes twinkling like stars in the pitch black skies, smiles that are as wide as the experiences we've had, and hearts full of memories. Of a very wondrous and magical place that is Cambridge Cay, Exuma, Bahamas.

Cambridge Cay is stunningly amazing. Why not come see for yourself?



***

If you haven't yet followed along, please check our Sailing Banyan Facebook Page for many more captions and photos of our Adventures.