We have now completed a few days at Little Farmers’ Cay. As said in the previous blog, it was a refreshing change from the glamour of Staniel Cay. However, the island must have had way more visitors for the 5Fs festival than there are residents. Not only were there lots of cruisers based around the island for a few days (well over 90 boats) but there were also all the race crews who race the Bahama Skiffs. There were 12 boats with 5 crew per boat plus some support boats, which doubled the island’s population on its own. So the place was buzzing.

The skiff racing was a blast to watch. The boats are simple wooden skiffs with a huge mast, a wooden strut for a boom and a vast single sail. Two wooden planks stretch across the boats, extending about three feet either side, acting as outriggers. The actual timing of the race on Friday was initially rumoured to be 10:00, then 11:00 then 2:00, and it finally started at something after 3:00. It is basically quite hard to get real information, and rumour circulates amongst cruisers as rumour does. Just before the start a big rain squall came through so most headed back to their boats from the beach but G&K headed out in Guppy to watch the start and then follow the fleet round. Well worth it, despite getting completely soaked for the third time that day…

The races start with the boats at anchor and the sails down, a few feet apart to windward of the start line. On the signal, two of the crew get the sail up whilst two others get the anchor up – all this as the helm is trying to get the boat sailing out of the scramash that is the start line. Once sailing, the ballast for the boat is provided by four meaty Bahamian blokes sitting way out on their planks for maximum leverage. The course started in the open water but the final leg took the skiffs through the western anchorage, often just a few feet from the stern on anchored yachts, which added a little frisson of excitement. G&K were drenched by the end of the trip, but we got some great photos of skiff racing.

In the evening we had been invited by our friends on Chandelle to join a large group of 50 French Canadians for a lobster dinner. This is an annual event for the FC cruisers, of whom there are many. It was a great fun evening with fine local food and a small Junkanoo party at the end.

Today we headed up the 10 miles to Black Point to have another go at getting our laundry done and sampling the famous coconut bread. We will report back if successful. So far, not: a few miles out, the wind kicked up and the heavens opened and we found ourselves reaching northwards in 20 kts of wind, no visibility and heavy, horizontal rain, and resorted to oilskins (yes really – oilskins in the Bahamas!). Yet another soaking to the skin, and a complete change of clothes. Threw down the hook on the edge of the Black Rock anchorage and battened down the hatches to let it all go away…

The trend of the last couple of days has been getting wet and we’ve lost count of how many changes we have had due to unexpected rain squalls and very wet bumpy dinghy rides in high winds.

Once we get away from Black Point, we are starting a bit of an upwind slog to St Martin / Sint Maarten. More to follow on that as the trip gets under way.