OK. So here’s the plan: we have decided to stay in French Polynesia for the cyclone season. We have gone backwards and forwards on this for weeks but the decision is now made. We will outline some of the reasoning here, and also some of the implications.

We have two main considerations: firstly, the cyclone season starts in November, and affects from Tahiti to Fiji. Secondly, the passage between Tahiti and New Zealand, via Fiji or direct, is not simple and needs careful timing, particularly as there are no other ports open en route. New Zealand has not yet given a clear signal that it will accept foreign yachts any time soon. Cutting a long story short – we have passed our deadline. We had hoped to leave Tahiti by 1st September, which would give us time in hand to wait for weather windows both here and in Fiji, and get us to NZ by the end of October. As it stands, the earliest we could leave here now would be mid- to late-September – if permission is granted. We are not prepared to make the potentially difficult passage to Fiji and/or New Zealand on a schedule being determined by someone else’s process (we always say the most dangerous thing on a boat is a schedule). In this case, we would get pushed into long passages, short handed and with little margin for weather issues of which there can be plenty on these legs. That’s not how we sail. So all that, combined with the costs associated with leaving FP & entry to Fiji, isolation requirements in NZ, a requirement to spend significant monies to justify entry on economic grounds, have moved us onto Plan B.

Plan B: our alternative plan is to stay in French Polynesia for the cyclone season. The area from Tahiti eastwards is generally not affected by the cyclones, particularly in non-El Nino years, which this is. Expectations are for a quiet season in this area (famous last words). The safest areas are the archipelagos of the Gambiers and Marquesas, where we are happy to spend time. We will stay with the boat as we are unlikely to get ‘named storm’ insurance cover as many insurance companies have withdrawn that this year. Our immediate plan is to get our refit works done here in Papeete, and then head east for the season. We are happy to have more time to see French Polynesia – everyone says the biggest mistake you make in sailing the Pacific is to rush through the area – and we have barely scratched the surface. If things generally improve next year we might even get to the Cook Islands and Tonga before New Zealand and Fiji. No need to rush.

The implications of this are that we will continue sailing and living on the boat, rather than stopping and getting off in NZ for a while. Air travel routes in and out of French Polynesia are open at the moment, but who knows if they will remain that way. We don’t plan to travel but, for the time being, we can if we need to (which would not be the case in NZ or Fiji).

We are now getting on with implementing our ‘Stay in French Polynesia’ plan. Before the cyclone season starts in November we want to replace our 10-year-old standing rigging, sails and sprayhood, as well as having a raft of other key maintenance done. On a domestic level, we need to apply for French Polynesia temporary residency (complicated by Brexit), find extended medical insurance, get phone contracts, etc. We will be busy here in Tahiti for a wee while.

What to do with our extended time here? The list is growing – improve our French, learn the ukulele, more diving … we will let you know. Suggestions appreciated.