We have been through a slight culture shock here. It is so quiet and so utterly disconnected that it has taken a little getting used to. Instead of checking e-mails and news headlines when we wake up, we just take a book to the back of the boat and read, with a cup of coffee by our side and our feet dangling in the water. We know from past experience that when we reconnect the news will probably be just about the same.

Yesterday we went ashore and walked across the motu to the ocean side to amble along the exposed coral platform. The waves were crashing up on the reef and lots of little fish were chasing around in the pools left when the tide went out. There was some plastic rubbish (mostly fishing industry discards) but not as much as you would imagine. As we waded along in warm ankle-deep water, we were finding beautiful cowrie shells and big purple sea urchin spines that look like they could be made into jewellery.

We also had an explore along the lagoon side of the motu, thick with palms and scrub, where we found some fallen coconuts. Most have been attacked by rats or crab, but some were still whole and ripe. We would normally not take these if it looked like the motu was farmed, but these look really deserted so we took a couple back to the boat and improved our technique for opening coconuts. Essential tools are the hacksaw, the electric drill, our heavy security bar, several knives and the first aid box. We now have shredded coconut and coconut slivers drying under the spray-hood, for cake and snacks.

Last night we had dinner aboard SV Venture Lady �" always a pleasure. Today it was back to more motu walking. We swim several times a day off the back of the boat and simply enjoy this very peaceful place. Tomorrow we will probably move to the south-east corner of the atoll before starting to think about our next move, to the nearby atoll of Toau.