Saturday 4 July, Hanavave bay, Fatu Hiva

Picture: BENGT in Hanavave Bay.

Belofte maakt schuld!
I had promised Anke to start writing our blog in English again when we reached
the Marquesas so here we go.

We left The Gambier on Sunday 21 June with a strong south-westerly wind which
made us motor straight into it for a few miles but once in the lee of Taravay we
could roll out some sail and start sailing out of the west pass on a north north-
westerly course. The first days we had good winds although a bit much (30 knots)
but BENGT made good speed towards the north. It got warmer and warmer so we
didn't need to much clothes. We had a visit from two very large whales who swam
around BENGT in about half an hour before the moved of towards the west. We think
they were SEJ Whales, mother and calf. Even if they came really close it was
difficult to determine which whales they were. We have a good book but the whales did
not show their heads but they were big.

Then we sailed into an area with little wind and our engine decided to go on
strike. It would start but nothing else happened after that so we continued to
sail at 2-3 knots. Next day I concluded that it must be the lift pump since it
was obvious that the engine was not getting any diesel. We tinkered a bit with
the pump and got the engine working the last day before we arrived. To be able to
arrive before dark we motored eight hours but the engine didn't really liked
that. We anchored in the stunningly beautiful bay of Hanavave on Fatu Hiva just
before the sun went down on the 21 June. It took us 7 days to sail the 851 miles from Rikitea.

This bay is called Baie de Vierges in French but the original name given by the
first Europeans was bay of dicks (virges) since the bay is surrounded by tall
stones who look like phalluses. The French catholic missionaries didn't like
that so they added an i.

First things first so the engine had to be fixed before we went ashore to look
around. The old lift pump was mounted again and the engine worked a lot better
but still has some uneven idling. We also discovered a leak at the copper pipe
that is connecting the saltwater pump to the heat exchanger. This pipe had
corroded where it is fitted in the water pump. There is an O-ring but that could
not tighten anymore so a little stream of saltwater sprayed into the engine room.
We tried several solutions but nothing helped for as soon as we opened the sea
cock it leaked. The final solution was 'engine epoxy' which we had bought in
Panama. After one hour hardening the sea cock was opened and the engine started:
fixed!

Ashore we went for a long hike together with our friends Neill and Heidi from
'Artemis' whom we hadn't met since Panama. We went up to the cross which is situated
600 meters above sea level.

A tough walk up the very steep roads. Down was not so much easier. In the village
we were invited home to one of the local wood carvers to have a look at his art. We
got some fruit and bought a nice carving of a Manta ray. The rays come into the
bay every day and feed. They are huge and swim in a group of about six individuals.
A wonderful view. Even dolphins swim in the bay.

Apart from that we had a lot of socializing with the crews of the other boats. We
did the laundry at the water tap in the little harbour. I was here in 1985 and then
there was just a stone beach and a muddy trail. Now there is a little harbour and
internet.

Another must is the hike to the waterfall in the forest which passes old ruins of
the houses of the people that lived here before the white man came with his
diseases and guns. The hike to the waterfall passes through some very old forest
which was 'taboo' for many years ago but nowadays nobody seems to care about that
sort of things. The locals play boule instead. We collected a lot of fruit on the
way.

Together with the other boats we visited another wood carver, Temo, who also
makes tapa. We bought a little tapa with an image of a tiki on it.
Fatu Hiva is the only island in the Marquesas where this ancient art still is alive.

These tikis where hugged out of stone by the people that lived here before the Polynesians
arrived. According to the legends these people came from South America and had
white skin with beards. These are the same people that made the statues on Easter
Island, Pitcairn, Raivavae (Austral Islands), Hiva Oa and on Nuku Hiva. All
statues are copies of similar figures found in Peru. When the Spaniards arrived
here they noted that some of the people had a European look and had beards.

Although Baie Hanavave is very beautiful and the local people very friendly it
has one big disadvantage: The gusts coming through the valley can reach more than
50 knots and make for a bad nights sleep since they are worse at night.
Fortunately the holding is very good.