Tahuata, Friday24 July ENGLISH
24 July 2020
• Pacific
by Wim
For pictures see the other blog entries.
Friday 24 July, Tahuata
Last Thursday we left beautiful Fatu Hiva and had a wonderful sail to Tahuata
which lies 43 miles from Hanavave bay on Fatu Hiva. We anchored in Hanatefau bay
together with 'Hay You' and 'Burasari'. Nice with boats you know. Van, from
Vietnam, is a wonderful cook so we didn't say no to a sundowner and great snacks
on 'Burasari' even if we were tired after the 8 hour sail in a rough sea.
The engine stopped working completely. The dirty fuel from Panama is causing this
problem. It took me a few hours to get our old Volvo going again but it is
smoking a lot and does not want to increase power when in gear. We had contact
with the yard on Hiva Oa and they can fix it. They seem to have lots of boats
coming from Panama with this problem.
Both other boats left for different bays and islands so we were all alone some
days. Every day lots of dolphins come in the bay, they are very playful and we
could watch them for hours, we even saw some manta rays. We took the dinghy over
to the next bay where the village, Vataihu, is situated. Here is a 'Magasin'
(store) where we did some shopping. Since we still have not been in
'civilisation' since Easter Island and not to an ATM yet we can only shop by
credit card. It's a 2 mile ride with the dinghy and we had dolphins playing
around us both ways. The only shop on Tahuata accepts credit cards and has a nice
general stock although it does not sell rom or other spirits.
We also took the dinghy the one mile to the other village, Hapatoni, where there
is a small boat harbour. In Vataihu you tie the dinghy to a concrete jetty which
is not so easy since the surge is very high. Timing and an anchor is necessary.
Both villages are very nice, well kept and touristy. Not much tourists or locals
around but from 15 July flights are coming in with tourists and as a result of that
we have to wear face masks again when in public places or in shops.
Here we also were faced with signs like 'private property' and 'leave the fruit
alone'. We have heard many stories about sailors not respecting the local culture
and taking fruit and coconuts from trees without asking. Here in Polynesia there
are no fences but all trees are owned by someone or by a family. When you ask you
always get fruit or can trade or pay. Fruit (no coconuts)that lies on the ground can be taken since
the locals do not bother to collect and leave it for the pigs and goats. We
filled a big bag with very mature mango's of which Elisabeth made some very good
mango chutney.
We met a nice Belgian boat called 'Anastasia' with Frank and Sophie. They told us
many stories about their sailing in Patagonia and the Falkland Islands, let us
look at wonderful snowy pictures and gave us lots of good advice. Like all boats
they do not know how the future looks like since we do not know when countries in
the Pacific open their borders. We still want to sail to New Zealand but can also
steer 'Bengt' to Chile or Canada if those countries open up. Staying another year
in French Polynesia is not what we want. Although very beautiful and with
friendly locals it's far too expensive here and even hauling out the boat is very
pricey.
After a few days we moved to a bay further north. The engine managed 4 knots but
was not very happy. Hanamoenoa is different from the other bays since it has
white sand instead of dark lava sand. Clear blue water and a long white sandy
beach with palm trees complete the view. Here lives Stephan, the local hippie,
who is not very keen on sailboats and also has sighs up with 'private, stay on
the beach'. He also had bad experiences with sailors taking fruit and coconuts
from his property without asking so now he is very reluctant to meet sailors. We
have not been ashore as yet since the weather has been very unstable with lots
and lots of wind and rain. The 'Mara'amu' is blowing.
We wait until it calms down and then we sail up the channel between Hiva Oa and
Tahuata to Atuona to get help with our engine. Atuona has a yard with trailer for
boats up to 20 tons and a very good mechanic. There is even a chandlery. Here we
will do our shopping, internet and repairs before we head for Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou
and south to Raroia in the Tuamotus.