Adventures of Berkeley East

05 June 2022
30 January 2022 | Ft. Lauderdale, FL
16 November 2021
21 October 2021
05 October 2021 | Genoa, Italy
15 September 2021
26 July 2021 | Caprera, Italy
22 July 2021 | Balearic Islands, Spain
01 July 2021
09 August 2020
30 March 2020 | Lake Norman, NC
31 October 2019 | Barcelona, Spain
30 September 2019 | Mallorca, Spain
15 September 2019 | Sardinia, Italy
08 September 2019 | Pantelleria, Italy
31 August 2019 | Favignana, Italy
22 August 2019 | Vulcano, Italy
17 August 2019 | Charlotte, NC and Gaeta, Italy

A country of contrasts

01 October 2013 | Marmaris, Bodrum & Paridise, Turkey



It was getting close to the end of our cruising season and we wanted to see a little bit of Turkey before taking Berkeley East into her new winter home. We had been told that the southern Aegean coast was heaven, but we needed to go north, so we started in the middle and moved slowly North towards Didim. What we found was not at all what we expected of Turkey. Everywhere we looked, we saw contrasts and contradictions.

Marmaris was a modern town full of British tourists on holiday. The harbor side was lined with non-descript restaurants, nightclubs and gulets (traditional sailing vessel), lots and lots of gulets.







For just 20 Turkish Lira (about $10 US Dollars) one could hop on a gulet from 10 am until 4 pm, visit beaches and have lunch. One particular gulet played Celene Dion's "My Heart Will Go On" from the film "Titanic" every day, at eardrum-shattering volume, as it left the harbor with passengers lined up to pose on the bow like Kate Winslet did in the movie. Everyone was having a blast and it was cute, the first time. But this town is also a cruiser's dream, with huge anchorages, marinas, boat yards, marine stores and workshops. A boat can pull into Marmaris and just days, or even hours, later have repairs completed, new canvas made, whatever one might need. We quickly discovered that Turkey is clearly much more modern than we expected and far less conservative than we realized.

Bodrum is also a modern city, but with historic sights to balance out the new city. The disparity here is between the partying and the praying. Some people pray five times a day in Turkey and the prayer is announced with singing over loud speakers, beginning just before dawn. But it appears that the Turks are also big partiers and some coastal towns, including Bodrum, have discos that rock until the wee hours of the morning, often stopping just in time for the 5:30 am prayer. We wonder how they sleep.







As we traveled about, we saw more and more paradoxes:

Dramatic green mountains covered with boxy white holiday homes.







People in conservative clothes surrounded by casually dressed tourists.












Pride in the Turkish flag, yet four out of five vessels fly the Stars and Stripes (to avoid a large luxury tax).







A delicious meal of lamb cooked in a traditional clay pot can be followed by coffee at Starbucks.







Strict anti-pollution regulations for boaters, but endless fish farms impacting Turkey's beautiful bays.


















Nearly 74 million people in Turkey and more boats than we've ever seen, yet still a sense of peace and isolation. We spent our last boating days of the season at anchor in a bay called Paradise, a fitting end to our brief introduction to Turkey and a good place to start again next year.


Comments
Vessel Name: Berkeley East
Vessel Make/Model: Hylas 54
Hailing Port: San Diego, CA
Crew: Larry & Mary Ivins
About: We quit our jobs in July of 2007 and began our adventure, sailing the US east coast in the summers and then spending our winters in the Caribbean. In 2010 we sailed across the Atlantic and will be cruising the Med for the next few years.
Extra:
FAQ Q: Did you go to UC Berkeley?

A: No. The name Berkeley East came from a ferry boat, "the Berkeley", that we met on over 30 years ago in San Diego. The East came as a result of seeing the boat being built in Taiwan. There was 30-foot Chinese symbol on the wall behind her during [...]
Berkeley East's Photos - Caribbean 1500 2008 (Main)
Street art from our 2019 stay in Barcelona
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Created 7 November 2019
Photos for blog post
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Extra pictures for Croatia
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Venice June 2012
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Created 12 July 2012
Tuscany trip summer 2011
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29 Photos
Created 29 June 2011
Wardrick Wells - Exuma Land and Sea Park May 2009
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24 Photos
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Pictures from our trip to Los Testigos, Venezuela - March 2009
5 Photos
Created 11 April 2009
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Created 28 March 2009
Pics form the 2008 Caribbean 1500
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Created 26 November 2008
Octopuses Garden – Highborne, Exuma Cay, Bahamas
15 Photos
Created 22 May 2008
4 Photos
Created 22 April 2008
13 Photos
Created 28 January 2008
Chistmas 2007 in St Maarten with other crusiers and Mike and Linda (frends & meighbors from CA)
6 Photos
Created 28 January 2008
5 Photos
Created 23 December 2007
5 Photos
Created 21 November 2007
3 Photos
Created 5 September 2007
4 Photos
Created 28 August 2007
7 Photos
Created 28 August 2007
6 Photos
Created 22 July 2007
10 Photos
Created 22 July 2007
In early July 2006 we made a quick from Sydney, Australia to Kaohsiung, Taiwan to check on the construction of our Hylas 54. She was a little behind schedule, but the build quality was excellent.
4 Photos
Created 22 July 2007
4 Photos
Created 17 July 2007
After 28 days aboard Sigrun Bolten from Taiwan, Berkeley East arrived in Port Everglades Florida. Mary and I helped unload her and motored up the river to be hauled and rigged. We where joined by our friends and next door neighbors (from CA), who were in Florida cruising from California to the Caribbean.
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Created 17 July 2007

Profile & FAQs

Who: Larry & Mary Ivins
Port: San Diego, CA

Our travels

Itinerary:

July 2019- Return to Gaeta, Italy

August 2019 - Gaeta to Sicily, Tunisia and Sardinia

September 2019 - The Spanish Balearic Islands

October 2019 -Barcelona Spain

November 2019 - Charlotte, NC