Beth and Evans

19 September 2013 | Mills creek
06 August 2013 | smith cove
04 August 2013 | cradle cove
31 July 2013 | Broad cove, Islesboro Island
24 July 2013 | Maple Juice Cove
06 June 2013 | Maple Juice Cove, Maine
02 June 2013 | Onset, cape cod canal
20 May 2013 | Marion
18 May 2013 | Marion
16 May 2013 | Mattapoisett
10 May 2013 | Block ISland
02 May 2013 | Delaware Harbour of Refuge
16 April 2013 | Sassafras River
01 April 2013 | Cypress creek
06 March 2013 | Galesville, MD
20 August 2012 | South River, MD
09 August 2012 | Block Island
06 August 2012 | Shelburne, Nova Scotia
20 July 2012 | Louisburg
18 July 2012 | Lousiburg, Nova Scota

Disappointment in Golfo de Nicoyo

09 June 2007 | Play Naranjo, Golfo de Nicoyo, Guanacaste, Costa Rica
Hola! During the course of our travels, we have always been surprised how seldom a new landfall fits our preconceptions. One of the joys of traveling, has been getting the feel for the real texture of a place, which usually turns out to be much more interesting, dramatic, complicated and beautiful than what we had expected. But occasionally we approach a country with tremendously high expectations only to be disappointed. Such has been the case with Costa Rica.



We were very much looking forward to spending time in this country because of its environmental and political records. Costa Rica has built a sterling reputation for eco-tourism and has shown an amazing commitment to its ecological heritage. The country has one of the highest percentages of land dedicated to national parks in the world and it refused to drill for the oil that was recently discovered off its Pacific coast for fear of damaging the environment. Costa Rica disbanded its military in 1958, and perhaps as a result of that, it has avoided the insurgencies, coups and political instability that have plagued its Latin American neighbors. It has one the highest standard of living south of the US border which has given it the nickname "the Switzerland of Latin America." All of this is most laudable, however, Costa Rica is at a crossroads, and we are not optimistic about where it might be going.



With about 4 million people and the size of West Virginia, the country has been enjoying great economic prosperity and growing rapidly based on ecotourism but even more on a real estate boom. American developers are building massive condo and housing developments for ex-pats along the country's still mostly pristine shores, and paying fortunes by Costa Rican standards for land and for construction. The result is that the Ticos (as the Costa Ricans call themselves) are doing well economically, so well that they now have an illegal immigration problem as poor Nicaraguans and Panamanians flood into the country to try to get jobs. Unfortunately, the rapid growth has outstripped the country's infrastructure and the huge influx of money has attracted thieves and thugs from as far away as Argentina. Roads, water systems, sewage systems and electrical systems can not begin to keep up with the demands from the increasing population. Power outages occur daily in some areas, roads are choked with traffic, and water shortages are becoming increasingly common in the dry region in the north.



Even worse, the police force, all of 5,000 people a few months ago when the new president came into office, cannot begin to keep up with the rampant crime, crime that now includes regular violence against ex-pats. Strict military control in most countries in Latin and South America where we have spent time meant that, while we might have been uncomfortable with the political situation, as visitors we generally felt safe. The same cannot be said for Costa Rica. While most of the crime we have heard about has been non-violent thefts, usually of the pickpocket or rifling the backpack on the bus variety, there has been violence. The owner of the Oasis del Pacifico resort in Golf de Nicoyo, a long-time friend of cruisers, was murdered in the resort two years ago. A friend of ours living on his powerboat in Golfito was beaten up and robbed aboard his boat a bit over a year ago. When we arrived, the papers were carrying a story about an American homeowner being beaten to death in his home a few months ago and the fact that the police did not even respond to the call until several days later. The country is fighting back, however, and the new president has doubled the police force since he came into office and plans to double it again in the next year. Whether or not that will stem the tide of crime sweeping the country remains to be seen. But this is the only country of more than 40 we have visited by sailboat where we keep everything on the boat locked and secured at all times, and where in several anchorages we felt the need to lock the companionway and dog all hatches at night.



On the ecological front, the country has done a great marketing job but on the ground the situation leaves a lot to be desired. We took a day tour from the north of the country to the mountains, and we expected to see lots of wildlife, particularly birds. What we got was more like Disneyland. Everything took place in one large resort called Buena Vista, and the day was spent in a series of "outdoor adventures"- a waterslide, a "zip tour" of the canopy, horseback riding and a spa. It had far more similarity to an American-style theme park or international dude ranch than anything specifically Costa Rican. A great deal of damage has been done to the rain forest to put in these "adventure parks," and while there is some debate about whether this is responsible "eco-tourism," there seems to be no serious attempt to slow the pace of development. During our day in the mountains, we actually saw less wildlife than we see on a daily basis in the anchorage and ashore when we're on the boat. But at an even more fundamental level, there is a disconnect between the country's image and the actuality. The tourist beaches are kept clean by crews who sweep across them at first light, but more remote beaches are littered with all manner of trash and garbage.



Our expectations were certainly too high. We have seen some wonderful wildlife - parrots, howler monkeys, iguanas, dolphins, sea turtles. And when we go ashore, we are often surrounded by dozens of brightly colored butterflies that swirl around us in a dancing and weaving rainbow. Most of the people we have met have been friendly and helpful, eager to engage in a long chat once they figure out that I speak Spanish. But all of that only makes the challenges facing the country more poignant. We hope that in the face of overwhelming prosperity and popularity, Costa Rica will find a way to protect its environment and to honor its political system.



We hope life exceeds your expectations,



Beth and Evans

s/v Hawk
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Vessel Name: Hawk