Birvidik

We originally planned to set off for the Greek Islands on 'Minivet' in 1981, but didn't make it past the pier heads. Now here we are in Ionian Greece. We may be slow, but we get there in the end.

After a couple of days in Catania we set off up the coast to Naxos (the Sicilian one, not the Greek one - that would have taken a while). This is the village and bay that lies beneath Taormina. It's a stunning setting; Mt Etna in the background, lava flows visible at night, castles and pretty towns perched vertiginously on cliffs and the long arc of a sandy bay.

We stayed here for a couple of days so that Liz could indulge in her usual hobby of finding the highest point in a 5 mile radius and dragging Bob up it. This involved a 3 mile climb to Taormina, followed by a further mountain goat impersonation up to the village of Castelmolo.

The next stage involved four long slogs across the toe and heel of Italy to get to Ionian Greece. First stop was Rocella Ionica, which had the disadvantage of having no electricity, but the distinct advantage of being free. On the way there, we were sailing along the Southern coast of Italy, doing about 6 knots on a beam reach, and all was hunky dory. Then the wind started to build, probably a topographic effect, funnelled down between the mountains. The waves built and spray and foam streaked downwind across the sea. By the time we were doing 8 � knots and leaning over at 45 degrees with the leeward gunnels in the water we thought it might be just a smidgeon past the time at which we ought to have reefed.

Having reefed and got things vaguely under control, we then approached Rocella Ionica. The pilot issues dire warnings about the approach to this place: sand banks, breaking waves, boats rolled over and dismasted; doom, defeat, disaster; fire, famine flood and traffic jams. Luckily we avoided these, but mooring in a strong wind was made more difficult by picking up something round the propeller which managed to impede the steering. After an interesting and unusual mooring technique, which kept the assembled onlookers amused, we set off to explore, which involved a 4 kilometre walk into town.

We met up with Aquatint and Lady de Vie, and went for a pizza at the pizzeria at the marina. They sell pizza by the metre. � of a metre satisfies even Bob's appetite.

Two long runs from Rocella to Crotone and then on to Santa Maria di Leuca took to our leaving of Italy and it was then a trip across to Corfu. We had intended to stop off at one of the small Islands NW of Corfu, but unseasonal SE winds persuaded us to anchor in Ormos Vroulias on the N coast of Corfu.

Having heard of Greek bureaucracy we decided to go straight to a port of entry (Gouvia marina) and get all that sorted out. They were very friendly and helpful. After visiting a couple of offices, filling in about 5 forms and handing over a not insubstantial number of euros along with crew list, ship's stamp, inside leg measurement etc we were given a DEKPA, or transit log. This is a large document (some obscure Greek standard which never quite fits into any standard document wallet) with space for 60 official looking stamps.

Greek maritime bureaucracy is designed for huge merchant shipping fleets, not the little piss-in-the-wind yachts that merely get in its way and send in claims for damages when the wash from a 20 000 tonner going at 15 knots smashes them to kindling against a concrete quay. As such, the DEKPA sternly instructs 'The master of the vessel' to check in and have the DEKPA stamped immediately upon arrival and to further have it exit stamped 'not more than 2 hours before departure'. It is pertinent, though, that the English word 'pragmatic' has Greek roots.

"How do I do this in deserted anchorages and small harbours where there are no port police?" Asked Bob, plaintively.

"You don't" came the off-hand reply from the port policeman.

"What about these stern instructions on the front of the DEKPA?"

"Ignore them. Get it stamped if they come round and ask you, or go and find them if it's more than about 30 days since your last stamp."

"Oh good - can I have that in writing?"

"No."

We took the bus into Corfu wearing our 'Look at the pratty English tourist' hats and set about sightseeing, getting Greek SIM cards for the 'phones and trying to get the Canon repaired. Success on (1) & (2), abject failure on the third. No camera shops anywhere. Googled 'Canon' and discovered that Greece is about the only European country without any agents. It's really galling to finally get to the Ionian and not be able to take good quality pictures.

Talking of pratty English tourists, Liz managed to get Bob on the little tourist train. Luckily he could pull his Stetson over his face and pretend he wasn't there.

From Gouvia we sailed (yes - actually sailed) to a little bay in the North Corfu channel called Ay Stefanos. This is an idyllic spot just a mile over the water from the Albanian mountains. Clear water, swims every morning and evening, excellent tavernas in which to idle away the warm evenings. It's such a trial this pensioner penury.

We are now working our way down the mainland coast, Pagania, Igoumenitsa creek, Platarias and Mourtos before crossing over to Paxos. Then it's round the gulf of Amvraikia before heading to Levkas to check out the marina there for overwintering. That's probably where the next update will be uploaded.