America’s Cup, Bermuda to Azores
22 June 2017
We had negotiated a very reasonable rate on a buoy in the harbour which was nearby Bermuda Yacht Club and the dinghy dock. I made contact with Charlie, Kate's son who was running a charter boat very nearby and we promised to meet up when he could get away from the guests. Davey arrived on the 29th May and it was wonderful to see him. He had rented a small apartment which luckily turned out to be very near to where we were moored behind White's Island in Hamilton Harbour. We had already had a couple of days out on Nanami with Sheri on the course and it was really amazing to see these huge speed machines fly by so close to us. It was really a pinch me experience, were we really on the America's Cup course in Bermuda watching the racing? Had we really sailed ourselves there in our own boat from home? Nanami is a gorgeous boat, very comfortable and provided a luxury watching base. Everyone brought lunch and shared which made each day out a treat. Davey brought us both a BAR t shirt and Sheri was completely outnumbered by her British BAR supporters with us and Chris and Caroline on board.
Michael arrived on the 31st and made himself comfortable on board in the bow cabin. Jake and Jamie came in on the same flight on the 1st. They had only been on board for 20 minutes when a Mayday came over the radio and made us all sit up and listen. A tender had been hit in the channel between us and Hamilton and people were in the water. There was a lot of confusion as one man was found, bleeding badly, brought on to another dinghy and taken ashore. We weren't sure how many boats were on the scene and knew that more boats churning up the water wouldn't necessarily help. But when a call came for more boats to join in the search as other people were in the water James rushed to lower our dinghy. Before he got going a further call came that another man and a woman had been picked up and no one else was still in the water. We knew ambulances were on the scene and could only hope for the best for them but we could tell there were some serious injuries.
In the morning I got up and checked my phone as usual, there were a couple of messages from Kate and Piers asking me to ring them. This is never usually for good news and I felt a wave of dread. I rang immediately and got Kate sounding very shaky who told me Charlie had had a horrible accident. I guessed the worst and said, "He was in the dinghy that got hit, wasn't he?" sure enough he was. He had been the man first rescued with awful leg injuries. He was in ICU having had 2 operations, his leg had been saved but the final outcome for him was by no means certain. Kate was flying out on the next flight, every mother's worst nightmare. More bad news was that the woman who had been the last to be found had died of her injuries and her husband had suffered a bad head injury and was in hospital with Charlie. The boat that had hit them had been traveling fast in the dark, and the propeller had caused many of the injuries. These accidents happen in seconds and ruin so many lives. James and I had remarked the day before that we worry so much about the ocean crossings but we are probably in so much more danger in the dinghy and in crossing the road.
We headed off to the AC village as it was the only day with racing that we could get to. The boys got on with their boat awareness, we had a useful land base at Davey's flat with wifi. The size of appetites was making me worried about the amount of food that was going to be needed and I topped up the carbs on board. Kate arrived that evening and James and I went to meet her at her hotel after she had seen Charlie. He was going to need another operation the following morning and all the insurance issues needed sorting out. Kate had assumed that Charlie was insured while at work by the company he was working for but this turned out not to be case, much to our horror. We then had to sort out the insurance he had got and make sure his care and repatriation was covered, it was going to be many £100s of thousands. I spent the day at the hospital with Kate and the boys got on with cleaning the bottom of the boat. Charlie's operation went well but the doctor told us he had lost 80% of his calf muscle and he would need more operations and long recovery at home. The whole thing was horrific, a young life so badly affected and the death of someone on holiday in a completely avoidable incident. Charlie was amazing, staying cheerful and positive, we met with the man involved who was desperately trying to make sense of the accident that had killed his wife and piece together what had happened as he couldn't remember it. The police came by and were investigating the accident and the young man who had been driving the boat that had hit them had been kept in custody. He had been working, had not been drinking but had been going far too fast.
The next two days were very busy with last preparations and getting the boys ready, I felt badly that we couldn't spend more time at the hospital, but of course there was nothing we could do apart from keep Kate company. We met her each evening, she was embroiled in the frustrating task of dealing with the charter company, insurance and the hospital to arrange Charlie's air vac home and into hospital at the reconstructive plastic surgery centre in Plymouth. At least she had friends in the marine insurance industry and they has arranged great legal support for Charlie that had been a comfort and support for Kate.
The boys had a night out with Davey that took some getting over, Sheri took them out to the course, we met regularly with John and the Eupraxia crew to agree our passage plan. The time was disappearing and our leaving approaching fast. The 5th June was James's birthday and our last day in Hamilton. All our friend's met on White's Island beach for a pot luck picnic in the evening to celebrate James's birthday and as a leaving party for us. Michael had piped on his first morning on board and now piped for the picnic, everybody loved it.
Charlie's air vac was supposed to be happening any time, just a plane for him to leave on was needed. We had had to get our mainsail down again to sort out the stretch and we hadn't got it back. We had hoped to sail around to St Georges where we had to check out but ended up motor sailing with the genoa on the 6th. It was sad to leave another place and people that we had loved and we were worried about Kate and Charlie but as weather windows are rare, our insurance needed us away from Bermuda and our crew and Eupraxia needed to leave we felt we couldn't delay and had to make our way. The 6th was fairly windy and despite the bow thruster not working when we tried them before leaving we got round to anchor in the bay again. Without the bow thruster we couldn't go into the fuel dock and had to fill from the fuel cans then dinghy in to re fill these. James and the boys investigated the wiring around the bow thruster but couldn't find anything. It was likely that something had been dislodged when the switch had been by passed but they couldn't find it. Jake had brought out the chart plotter that Kate and Piers had recently taken back when ours started to play up again and a new part had arrived from the states to sort out the most recent electrical issues but hadn't worked and the by pass had been the answer.
We picked up the repaired sail and managed to get it on despite the wind blowing strongly. Many hands make light work. We went ashore for our last night in Bermuda and met up with Eupraxia.
On the trip to Azores I wrote an email every day to keep people updated about our progress, I will reproduce the daily update for the trip.
Day 1
Hi, we have made good progress after a late start due to the loss of the dinghy. Of course we couldn't go and look for it without the dinghy. Eventually after reporting it missing we found it in the yacht club behind us where it must have floated which was incredibly lucky. Wind has been OK although we have been very rolly. Everyone is taking sea sickness tablets and thankfully there has been no sickness. Appetites are enormous and unshaken by the sea state. The boys are having to get used to not having much to do and relaxing which doesn't come easily, no fish caught yet.
Much love to all, send news of the election and the Americas cup as well as anything going on with you all, all on board BB.
PS Day one turned out to be our best day 181 miles and a new 24 hour record for BB
Day 2
278 miles done. Wind has dropped off and looking light for the trip which is comfortable but slow and means more days at sea. Our ETA is going backwards. More tons of pasta being cooked! Jake is even considering reading a book. Anything to take his mind off eating lol.
Everyone is happy, getting used to the boat, watches and sleeping. We watched a programme about the Azores in the cockpit last night which was really nice and whetted our appetites for getting there. Jake and Michael have been doing press ups on deck life jackets on of course.
No fish caught so far but plenty of weed. I'm sure the lure changes and line checking will pay off soon.
Amanda's cake number 1 was started yesterday and much appreciated by all.
We are desperate to know who won the election, was it really Labour and JC ?? and America's cup scores. Any news is very welcome but we really want to know those.
Day 3
After a night motoring on night 2, the wind has picked up and we have been able to sail since yesterday morning at a good rate. The sea state has calmed down and is not too bouncy. The boys clipped on to the back stays and did some boxing training and other hard looking exercises with much whooping and music, Jamie was in charge of the music. At one point, and while Michael was down below, the fishing line shot away but by the time we had mustered and Michael had the rod it had gone silent. As he wound it in we knew the worst, our new bird and the lure had gone, it must have been something very big and ferocious. The Atlantic is becoming populated by our birds and fishing tackle and we have had to revert to the baby bird we had already. Still no fish supper.
The forecast is good, no gales, and enough wind to keep us going for most of the trip but still saying 10 more days, longer than I hoped but better than gales and big seas. Jake still hasn't started reading but we all watched the start of a series in the cockpit and the boys watched a film later. It's hot and no sign of icebergs. We have a daily call with Eupraxia to discuss the latest weather download and check in which is reassuring.
Day 4
The big news yesterday was that we saw dolphins twice and lots of them. They came and swam with us playing at the bow of the boat both times for quite a while. We sailed all day but in the evening the wind dropped to nearly nothing and we have motored all night. A couple of you have said about an Atlantic rescue , do you know where that was? We know some other boats that are crossing ahead of us so would be grateful of anymore information.
We download weather updates everyday and so have a pretty good idea about the weather around us. We decide on our course to try to get enough wind to sail but not too much and, of course end up in Horta. Our weather information is quite good especially for the immediate days but we have a two week forecast. We also speak to Eupraxia everyday and compare our information with theirs. Bizarre that our problem is not enough wind. We have averaged 144 miles a day , which isn't bad.
We watched a film in the cockpit last night , there was an ever so slight chill in the air. We all enjoyed it and the boys remarked how comfortable we are mid Atlantic. We have more luxury and food than a large proportion of the world's population.
Day 5
There was no wind all day and we have motored for 24 hours. It is worrying because of the fuel use but did mean we were getting along well and the sea is calm so the boat is much more steady. However, worryingly James realised on his 5-7 am watch that although the boat speed is showing 6+ knots the GPS/speed over ground is only 4 knots. The usual time we see this is in a strong current or tide and that shouldn't be the case out here. If we had picked something up on the rudder or prop then the boat speed would be effected too. If we were still in the Bermuda triangle I'd be very worried.
Life onboard is good, everyone has settled into the routine and the lads are great, very upbeat, energetic and keen, a real tonic. I keep thinking how much Dad and Ruth would have loved to hear about this and how pleased he would have been about the boys joining us, especially with the bagpipes being played on deck.
We saw whale spouts in the distance yesterday which caused great excitement but they didn't come closer, following the pattern of whale sightings on Blew Beyond up to date. It's enough to make me stop my Whale and Dolphin Protection Society membership. We have been seeing alot of jelly fish with the little sails up and quite a few birds, still no fish caught yet.
The forecast is promising us more wind so fingers crossed, we can't motor all the way there. It is sobering to hear that further north in the Atlantic there are hurricane winds and people being rescued from boats, although he did get picked up by the Queen Mary 2 which is quite appealing. Noooo of course i wouldn't rather be on there! We don't need to be slowed down however and figuring out what is happening will be today's first job, any ideas gratefully received from the ground crew.
The boat speed problem is definitely current as we spun the boat around and then our speed over ground went higher than our boat speed. Very annoying as there is nothing we can do about it but at least we don't have to deal with anything dragging under the boat. Strange it isn't shown on the charts.
We changed the clocks yesterday forward an hour as we are a third of the way there. It's odd to be able to decide on the time. At least it was a sign we are moving in the right direction. We saw another boat yesterday the first for days, very exciting.
Position now is 36 57n 53 16w
Day 6
All a bit frustrating. The current was with us for hours through the morning slowing our progress. Then it disappeared much to our relief. However, in the afternoon it reappeared, by that time we were motoring again as the wind had dropped off. A weather update showed that the wind was not going to come in until the next day and we resigned ourselves to motoring for the next 24 hours.
The day past peacefully enough, reading, chatting and sleeping. We introduced Michael and Jake to the Blues Brothers film last night which we all enjoyed. The dolphins joined us for a while but no sign of whales. Michael and Jake have been keeping up a gruelling boxing and exercise regime, while tied on with the lifejacket straps. Jamie joins in briefly and James and I keep watch, I'm finding standing up while cooking a pretty good workout.
This morning however we had a bit of a disaster when, having put the sails out, a big roll threw us around and a piece fell off the gooseneck that holds the boom on to the mast. The boom stayed in place but was left precarious and unsecured. We got the boys up, thank goodness for them, everybody stayed calm and after considering various options we have tied the boom with dyneema on to the remains of the fitting and it looks pretty secure. While we would only use it gently and not downwind it is probably firm enough to use if not too much stress is put on it. However, this has further slowed progress in these light winds. Dyneema is amazing stuff, looks like rope but has the strength of steel. Brilliant team work , everyone thinking of solutions and staying positive. I'm trying to get myself into a zen state of mind and stop myself counting hours and days to arrival as it moves away from us. Not easy for me, everyone else is much more chilled and James, as ever, deals with whatever comes up and keeps us all on course.
Still no fish! I'm also considering the food stores and how to keep the ferocious appetites satisfied for an increasing number of days.
We have phoned the parts company in the UK to order a new part sent to Horta.
Day 7
The big news yesterday after the drama of the boom breaking was that we finally saw whales. A pod of pilot whales came right over to us and played like dolphins around the boat and in the bow wave. They were not huge, maybe 4/5 metres but big enough to be impressive and such a joy to see them so close after 2 years of sailing.
The wind was light and we set up wing on wing with the genneckker and the cutter sail which moved us along but not very fast and we really missed the main. The counter current hasn't disappeared and we still notice, now and again that we are being pushed backwards.
This stage of the journey is a test even without other problems. Still less than half way and a week at sea. At least we passed the 1000 mile mark so are into triple figures. We are looking forward to feeling as though we are on the downhill stretch though.
Sargent Major Jake is organising the exercise regime on the aft deck and he set up a circuit routine that Jamie and I joined in with. Exercise and balance all in one. If you want to get the idea try exercising on a balance ball and imagine 5000 metres of water all around you.
This morning the wind has finally got up and we are making better progress, more wind means more waves so we are moving about more too. Our fresh food is running low so need to think of some other options. Still no fish caught, pressure is on Michael!
Day 8
As so often happens at sea our world has undergone a big change. The wind stayed steadily at 25 knots all day. We had the full Genoa out and didn't need the main at all luckily. The swell has risen and we are all hanging on with every step but romping along at 7.5 knots, making up the miles.
We crossed our half way rum line and all celebrated with a tot of rum and ginger, a dark and stormy before dinner. Thai curry last night, not with fish though, still none caught. We also past the 1000 miles travelled yesterday which was a boost. No exercise session yesterday as it was hard enough just to stand up.
After dinner, just after James and I had gone to bed, Jake, who was on watch, came and told us the wind had got up to 30+ and they reefed in the Genoa which hardly effected our speed at all. We maintained that all night, it was difficult to sleep while being tossed around in bed.
We are up this morning to much the same conditions, Michael is making teas and coffees, Jake is on porridge duty and Jamie is still sleeping, the forecast is showing the wind holding today and all the way to Horta. The boys are getting a taste of the real life on an ocean wave.
Day 9
I think uncomfortable best sums up yesterday. We also remembered the old saying, 'be careful what you wish for". At last the wind was with us but so was the sea. Big waves tossing us around with a regular broadside that smacked into us with a bang like a cannon ball, very disconcerting. The dreaded sea sickness reared again with Jake being caught short while watching a video. No actual vomiting thankfully. We had all thought we were now immune but not so. We all took sickness pills again except Michael who has proved to have the sturdiest sea legs and is a dab hand at making hot drinks whatever the weather. I have to say that keeping everyone fed in these conditions is not easy. Don't imagine that a little bit of sea sickness puts Jake off his food, thank goodness for pasta, carbonara last night.
We all sat around inside the boat, the cockpit is soaking wet and spray even made it down the hatch a couple of times. Everyone was sleepy after taking the tablets so a quiet day.
Through the night the wind got up and James and Michael reefed the Genoa some more. Torrential rain started and even some lightening, all the electronics were put in the oven just in case. By this morning the wind had dropped although we still have the rain, the wind direction has changed so we tacked and unreefed the Genoa. Everything is very grey and quite chilly. Thank goodness for our cheerful crew, these are the conditions that can really get me down. The trip feels never ending, still at least 4 days to go and not only are we trapped on the boat but more or less trapped inside. Although it could be worse, without our Pilot House we would have to be sitting outside on watch. We can't even fish in these conditions although at least that means we won't lose anymore fishing gear! 600 miles to go.
Day 10
It rained nearly all day yesterday, hard, torrential rain, grey sky and cold northerly wind. Michael keeps saying, ' just like Scottish summer'. The swell was high and we were all braced and slipping about. Annoyingly though our speed wasn't great, we don't want to use the mainsail and risk the boom falling. We seemed to be in grip of the counter current again all day, it is so disheartening to see our speed over ground so much less than our boat speed and nothing we can do about it. The wind wasn't doing quite what was forecast and James did a couple of checks to see if we should alter course but really there was nothing to be done. The wind wasn't actually that strong, 15 knots but we felt like it was gale force given how rough the sea was. We couldn't go out without getting soaked and we spent all day inside playing Domino's then cards, trumps then pontoon.
After a dinner of tinned chilli, smash mash and salad, not my finest but a good effort given the conditions I felt, we've assessed the weather, agreed a plan and settled down for the night. The boys watching another episode of the Walking Dead on the computer. An hour or so later they came to tell us that the wind had got up and they were going to reef the Genoa. They are a dab hand at all of this now, life jackets on and clipped in they reefed and came back in. The wind stayed up all night and made sleeping very uncomfortable. Michael spent part of the night on the saloon floor, not much sleep was had. Every now and again an especially big trough sent us sliding down with a slam and a jolt at the end.
This morning we reefed further as the gusts were high, and we all sat together staring out at the grey sea. It's chilly and we have solid water coming over the bow every now and again. The boys love the adventure of it and say they now feel they have really experienced a proper Atlantic crossing, Blew Beyond fights on through largely untroubled and stalwart. I'm sort of enduring, gritting my teeth and holding on. We are all counting the miles and hours to go and looking forward to arriving. Eupraxia thinks they will arrive tonight which is a little disheartening but that's the joy of a bigger boat with a working mainsail. The forecast is telling us we've seen the worst and should see an improvement through the day. I hope so, 460 miles to go. We hope to arrive on Tuesday. I'm really proud of our crew who all have got on with everything needed, staying jolly and upbeat, a great team.
Day 11
More of the same on day 11. We rolled along at a decent rate all day. Everyone was tired after the bad night before so lots of sleeping. We were still very bouncy and slamming into some big waves every now and again. The sea was still choppy from the changeable winds we've been having. It was another day without going out as the cockpit was very wet and too likely to get a soaking from a wave. I started and finished a book that Michael bought about Chay Blyth and John Ridgeway crossing the Atlantic in a row boat. It took 91 days!!! Ok so we are pretty comfortable compared to that but I'm still glad that we are not planning any more extended crossings after this one. Otherwise everyone is happy, Jake was feeling a little sick again and James was sick, pills taken which encourages the sleeping too. Thank goodness for Amanda's cake which kept us going.
Sun is out this morning, wind is good, and the end is in sight.
Day 12
Day 12 big news was that we caught a huge fish. Michael redeemed himself and the honour of the Scots by pulling in a mammoth Mahi Mahi. This was no mean feat as we are still rolling around, jolting and bucking in the swell. Nevertheless it didn't stand a chance and Michael and Jake killed and cut it into 10 big steaks. Fish, salad and cous cous for dinner, absolutely delicious.
Otherwise it was another day of holding on, good speed but so difficult to do anything. We get a full soaking right down the boat every now and again as a wave catches us badly which makes being outside unpleasant. It's pretty chilly too, especially at night. We are definitely feeling the northerly latitude and the northerly wind. At least the rain has stopped.
There is a lot of talk about what we are going to do when we get there, boat repairs we keep telling them lol. Exercise, eating and drinking seems to be top of their list, James and I will just have to join in obviously.
156 miles to go, arrival tomorrow morning, one more sleep.
Day 13
A number of momentous things to report:
1. Jake made breakfast and brought James and I scrambled eggs and toasted Bagel in bed. What a treat.
2. We have arrived, we are just off the coast of Faial, about to enter Horta harbour. 13 days, not bad with no mainsail. Of course though, this could not be easy and the engine has failed to start, too low on fuel we hope.
3. Yesterday the tender made another bid for freedom. One of the wires holding it on to the davit broke and it was tangling into the water. The boys managed to attach a rope and pull it back on. We will see if the engine starts after a dipping in sea water. Another heroic rescue by our crew.
Wonderful to see land, it's green, rather misty and a little chilly but extremely welcome all the same. Much cheering, much laughter, engine now running and dolphins accompanying us in.
PS
First day in Horta, Jake got the tender going, James and Jamie mended the bow thruster and I cleaned through inside the very grubby boat.