The run from Murphysboro to the campground at Glendale Lake all in Southern Illinois was one of the prettiest in terms of landscape and architecture (agricultural and residential) of the trip so far.  Still rolling country. Early in the day I was wondering if there were something wrong with me, because the hills seemed a gear or two steeper than they looked and my quads were burning. After pondering this for a few miles I put the bike upside down (which it accepts very well, by the way) and discovered a brake rub which I traced to the obvious cause, a broken spoke on the rear wheel. I made some adjustments to solve the immediate problem, but the rim is shot (the spoke hole next to the broken spoke is torn and distorted by the excessive load caused by the broken one. And I imagine the rim is warped. Anyway the advice online seems to be that the rim and all spokes should be replaced. There are bike stores coming up on the route. Hopefully the parts will be available without too long a wait. I usually keep my downhill speed under 30, but I'm reducing my personal limit to 20 until the wheel is replaced. I've never had a wheel-collapse, but I think I'm at high risk for it.

Toward the end of the day I heard a friendly hello from the side of the road and I stopped to investigate. It was Carol, the proprietress of Max Creek Antiques (see on Facebook) who offered a cold Pepsi and some conversation . We had a very nice chat. Before I left I asked her about a grocery store. She thought I should camp at Glendale Lake and there was no store in between. I thought I should shop, being down to half a bag of Kashi Crunch. Carol went immediately into high gear, and in five minutes came of the house with a bagful of supplies, bread, meat, beans, tomatoes and carrots, yogurt and a cold beer. Humbled, again, by her generosity I promised to pass it on and pedaled away.

All I can say about Glendale Lake is that it was cool (temp) and marvelous. The campground road was lined with towering hemlocks, still with sunlight filtering through when I arrived. I set up camp next to moss-covered rocks and dreamed joyful dreams.

As I write I'm in a charming cafe in a charming town on the Ohio: Cave-in-Rock, Illinois. This is where the free car ferry to Kentucky comes in. I'll be on it in a half hour or so. My second lunch today is a fantastic piece of chocolate cream pie.