Sunburned in the Tuamotus
22 April 2016 | Tuamotus
We continue to travel north and west through the Tuamotus- enjoying the phenomenal marine life, the secluded islands, (many uninhabited), and the laid back spirit of this magical place.
We had three lovely nights on Toau, one in a deserted anchorage, and two in a cul-de-sac in the reef with several buddy boats (including Wishanger, paddle, paddle, paddle.) Anse Amyot was a virtual aquarium with unbelievable coral- we spent a lot of time in the water!
There was one couple who lived on the atoll (no running water or electricity) but they run a "restaurant" and cook meals for cruisers during the busy season. We had a fabulous dinner with them (and 8 other sailing friends)on Saturday. When we went ashore to inquire about dinner(friends had made a "reservation" for us) there was a pig tied up on the dock- dinner. Hannah just about cried when she put one and one together ("look at it's cute face")but after it was roasted on an open fire, she forgot about it's "cute face." I stayed ashore for a while in the afternoon and chatted with Gaston and Valentina as they made coconut bread, shaved the pig and and drank homemade beer. Now I am not sure how pineapple juice, yeast and sugar exactly make beer but whatever it was, it was definitely
alcohol! We had two fish dishes along with the grilled pork, coconut bread and homemade coconut cake for dessert. Valentina had lived on that atoll her whole life- she had some great stories. She was also a fervent Pentecostal (very rare in these French Catholic islands) who invited us to her church (literally it was her and Gaston). I did learn that the Pope is going to hell (he'll have a lot of company because all Catholics will be there)and there's no sex in heaven. How did I ever miss those nuggets in seminary? It was an enlightening two
We are enroute to Apataki now for one night then onto Rangiroa (the biggest and most populous island in the Tuamotus with the 2nd largest lagoon, 1640 sq km, in the world) for a few nights before sailing to Tahiti on Sat/Sun. We are looking forward to having larger grocery stores, bakeries, moderately fast internet and great hiking but not so sure about traffic, pollution and noise.... Our new mainsail should be there this week so we'll spent at least a day sorting that out.