After our busy time on St. Thomas--provisioning, getting the propane tank filled at Krum Bay (where all discarded boats seem to go to die, lining the shore), getting the laundry done—we motored to Francis Bay, St. John, in only 6-8 knots of breeze. There are very few boats here now, as the winter season is wrapping up. Tom made an appointment for engine service at Nanny Cay in anticipation of his trip north in a few weeks, so on Thursday morning we went over to Soper's Hole to clear into the BVI, then around to Nanny Cay. After the hot, still night we’d just had, we dreaded being in the marina where it's usually hotter and more airless, but it wasn't bad! While Tom waited on the boat for Tevern, the service man, to appear, I escaped to the pool to swim some laps and do some reading (just like the tourists do!). We enjoyed great showers ashore and a dinner at Peg Leg’s.

Friday we motored over to Peter Island while we ate lunch. Our friends Mel and Robert Shaw on Jazolo, a J/46, were anchored there, but had gone ashore. Knowing it was Rob’s birthday, I made him a card, and Tom taped it to their boat. We did some great snorkeling along the shore, which was very easy given that our mooring was so close to shore (see the Picture Gallery). Tom swam along with a big school of blue tang for a while, and massive schools of minnows were everywhere. In the morning Rob dinghied over to thank us for the card, and we agreed to meet up at Marina Cay, as I was eager to do some shopping at Aragorn's Studio in Trellis Bay, and nearby Marina Cay is a more pleasant anchorage. Tom suggested we make it a one-design race, but the lack of wind and the need to charge batteries put an end to that idea. After Tom and I did thorough cleaning of the heads, we motored to Marina, and dinghied to Aragorn's for some gift purchases. Mel and Rob came for what turned out to be a very long cocktail “hour,” but we enjoy them so much the time flew by.

Sunday, April17, we had a nice sail up to North Sound. Initially we anchored off the north end of Prickly Pear, and I did some snorkeling. I urged Tom to at least get his mask on, too, so he could see the big fish on the keel. It seemed to be sucking, as a remora would, but the size and shape seemed more like a lemon shark. Fascinating! After our swim we decided to move, as the northern swell seemed to be increasing, so we picked up the massive mooring in Biras Creek—the one that requires Tom to get in the dinghy to secure our lines to it. We spent a couple days there, although it was terribly hot and muggy. We defrosted the freezer and fridge, played a lot of backgammon, and dinghied over to BEYC for wifi. Another J/46 came in—John Burnett on Folie a Deux. John and his friend came to say hello while the womenfolk were ashore. He expects to be in Maine this summer. With the GRIB showing a breeze from the NE, we moved back over to Prickly Pear and anchored on the south end. Indeed, we did have a nice cooling breeze, so enjoyed a couple days of reading, knitting (me), and backgammon.

Thursday, April 21, we moved to Leverick Bay so I could do the laundry. Two of the four washers were working, and three of the four dryers, so it was a usual semi-frustrating experience. One last mahi sandwich of the season—they make the best one in the Caribbean—and a very windy night on their mooring. Friday morning we went into the dock to fill our water tanks (free with the mooring), but discovered they were out of water. So we got our free bag of ice and headed back to Marina Cay for water. I had my heart set on going to the Full Moon Party at Trellis Bay that night, having been unable to make it any month since our November arrival. It's quite an event, with a $25 buffet dinner, Aragorn's hollow metal sculptures along the shore aflame, Jumbie dancers, and—what I was especially looking forward to seeing, being a former potter—a firing of Raku pottery. When we stopped at the dock at Marina Cay to fill our water tanks, however, we could see that Trellis Bay was jam-packed with boats, and boats seemed to be leaving Trellis and picking up moorings at Marina. As we pulled away from the dock it started to sprinkle, and we could see a wall of rain approaching, so we quickly picked up a mooring to just ride out the squall. Boats continued to come over from Trellis—it was obvious there was no more room over there. We decided to dinghy over to Trellis, as I had more gifts to buy, but that it would be foolish to try to make it to the evening party. On our way back to Bravo we got caught in yet another rain shower, but it wasn't bothersome as it was fresh water and it was warm! We were about to leave for Peter Island because we were in the outer part of the mooring field and it was rolly, when a mooring opened up right in by the island. We hurriedly switched moorings and avoided having to leave for Peter Island. A rainy night with more mosquitos. Last we read, the Zika virus was only in Puerto Rico and St. Croix, but if any Zika-infected mosquitos have moved up here, we may be in trouble.

Saturday, April 23, our daughter Mary’s 38th birthday, we sailed to Soper's Hole to clear back out of the BVI for the last time this season. Some provisioning at Harbour Market, some wifi at Pusser's so I can file a float plan for entering the USVI, and Tom cleared Her Majesty's Customs & Immigration for $10. We motored the short distance to Leinster Bay on St. John, which Tom is now calling Hospital Bay—the two times he developed issues that led to ER visits in St. Thomas happened in Leinster Bay. Coincidence, I suspect. But when a partying power boat picked up a mooring next to us, it was all the incentive we needed to leave and go to Francis Bay (and really, no sense tempting Fate).

Lovely Sunday breakfast, with flaky croissants from Harbour Market; scrambled eggs chock full of broccoli, tomatoes, and cauliflower; and Weekend Edition coming in clearly from WTJX in Charlotte Amalie. I got the answer to Will Shortz’s Sunday Puzzle in about 15 seconds, so an entirely pleasing morning. A few boat jobs, more reading and swimming—not much happening. The excitement yesterday morning was the USVI National Park Service boat going from boat to boat throughout the harbor, starting before 7:00 am. At a couple boats they had to tweet the siren to rouse people. They finally got to us about 8:00. “Good morning, hope you're enjoying your stay, have you paid for the mooring, do you have the receipt…may we see it, please?” whew! We do save our receipts, so we were able to show them. “You know about the 7-day limit? Are you using your holding tank so you don't pollute our pristine water?” We continue to nod and say yes. We decide this is not the time to ask where on earth is a pump-out station in all of the Virgin Islands? They’re very pleasant, and we exchange a few more comments before they move on to the next boat.

Now it's Wednesday, and we’ve paid for a couple more nights of moorings here—still short of the 7-night limit! Slightly rolly, but we’ve had worse. Tom took the dinghy ashore to scrub the bottom, and was eaten alive by no-see-ums. Swimming, reading, grateful for a bit of breeze. It is still hot and muggy, though—God’s way of saying it's time to go back to Maine!