I realize that those of you in colder climates won't care to hear this, but last night was the first time I pulled even a sheet over myself, and that wasn't until early morning. The oppressive humidity and heat have finally broken, it seems, and it was wonderful sleeping.

We're on a mooring tucked in the lee of Great Bird Island, on the north coast of Antigua. This area is surrounded by reefs and scattered with small islands, so it's protected from the ocean swells. In the last few days that Sue and Galen Todd are with us we're exploring the parts of Antigua we haven't seen before. Great Bird is a wildlife sanctuary, and boasts the only home in the wild of what Chris Doyle's cruising guide says may be the "rarest and most endangered snake"--the Antiguan Racer, or Alsophis antiguae. The Todd's met it on the path to the island's summit while reconnoitering the island, and were impressed. They also got to see into the 100-foot deep blowholes that go straight down to the water from the summit.

Working up to our current location, I'll go back to our anniversary dinner in Deshaies, Guadeloupe. We first tried a restaurant that the locals seemed to like; they didn't open for dinner until 7:00 pm, but suggested we could come in for a drink and "fried fish," which turned out to be a light, slightly spicy fritter. We were seated right at the edge of the deck, over the water, and it was lovely...until we started getting dive-bombed by little flies. We finished off our wine, paid the bill, and moved on to L'Amer, where we were again seated by the water, but with no bugs. The people at the adjacent tables were talking to each other in English, and we joined the conversation to get recommendations on the food. One couple was from Arizona, having bought a house in Guadeloupe so their daughter could attend a French school. We inquired if they knew the filming locations for Death in Paradise, a quirky murder mystery show we enjoy, and it turns out their house will be in an episode of season 7. They pointed out the building used as the police station and the bar where many scenes are filmed. We hope to stop in again in April, when filming will resume. Dinner was very good, they had free WiFi, and it was a great anniversary. On to the next 44 years.

On the 18th we motored to Pigeon Island in flat calm, and snorkeled the Cousteau Underwater Park, which Cousteau deemed one of the world's 10 best reef areas many years ago. Now there are still gorgeous fish, but, as everywhere, the coral is bleaching out and dying. After snorkeling we returned to Bravo, finding that the wind had picked up considerably, and surged the dinghy against the transom. Offloading and getting back aboard the boat were treacherous undertakings, but no limbs were severed in the process. We continued on to Iles des Saintes, motoring into the headwind. We picked up a mooring at Bourg des Saintes and paid for two nights.

Sunday morning Sue and Galen went to town to explore and acquire more croissants and baguettes. They walked up to Fort Napoléon for a great view of the area. Club Med 2, a big "wind ship," joined the anchorage. We again splurged on dinner out at La Fringale, which was a lovely courtyard garden with a little waterfall and a combination of painted and live scenery. Great food and WiFi, too!

November 20 we went ashore for fresh pastries, and then to the pharmacy hoping I could get something for my deep, lingering cough. The pharmacist said I must first go to the doctor (she didn't like the sound of it), so Tom and I sat at the doctor's office for a couple hours, waiting our turn (no receptionist--everyone just knows when it's their turn). The doctor, dressed in shorts and a polo shirt, didn't speak much English. He asked how long I'd had the cough (three weeks--that raised his eyebrows), listened to my breathing, asked if I had allergies, and prescribed an antibiotic, an inhaler, Pneumorel sirop (chlorhydrate de fenspiride--"2 big spoons 3 times a day"), and bétaméthasone, to be dissolved in water and drunk for five mornings. The cost of the visit was 30€, and the prescriptions were $70 US. A week later, we all think maybe the cough is better. Maybe.

We moved to an anchorage around the point of Pain à Sucre, where the snorkeling wasn't very good, but it was a beautiful setting.

Tuesday, November 21, we sailed back to Deshaies, with the wind shifting constantly, making for a challenging sail. We picked up the last available mooring and went ashore to check out of customs and get some WiFi time at L'Amer. At the customs computer I had to reenter every bit of information on the form--tedious, but only a 4€ charge. The next morning we got a fairly early start back to Antigua, sailing nicely at 7-8 knots for the first few hours, but motoring for the last 18 miles when the wind got too light. Initially we were heading back to Jolly Harbour, but when we discovered that a pin was missing on an Antal car (used for raising the main), we diverted to Falmouth, where there are several rigging shops. Tom went ashore, walked over to English Harbour to check in at customs, but found he couldn't without the password for eseaclear, Antigua's online check-in system that I'd registered us for while they were offshore on the passage south.

Wednesday morning, armed with the password, Tom checked us in and found the needed part at North Sails in Falmouth. Then on to Jolly Harbour to fuel up, get provisions at the wonderful Epicurean market, and drop off a ton of laundry, to be picked up at 3:30-washed, dried and folded. We picked up a mooring just off our villa, and waited for the laundry pick-up time. Galen, Tom, and Sue roared off to get it, and came back thumbs down--not ready until 5:00. 5:00, still not ready. We spent the night on the mooring, got the laundry in the morning, and took off to begin our circumnavigation of Antigua. We rounded the north side of the island, past St. John's, and anchored at the Jumby Bay Resort, where we got a little WiFi signal. The next day on to Great Bird Island, where Galen and Sue saw the snake...