Erikub, eastern islands, ocean side, low tide.


The next day we motored to the east side of the lagoon and found flat water in 25 knots of wind near the smaller islands. These are narrow strips of land made parched green by scrub and a few dieing coconut palms. Little rain has fallen here over the past year.

Anchoring was difficult due to the narrow band of shallow before the steep drop off into the lagoon. We found one sand area and dropped the anchor in 15 feet of water then let out 150 feet of chain. Only 30 feet of chain lay on the bottom before the bottom dropped away hanging the remaining chain over the deep lagoon. If the wind should shift to the west, Brick House would quickly be on the rocks.

We dried sopping towels and wet sheets then plugged a couple leaks. We now definitely wanted to get to Majuro to get more materials to better affect repairs.

After diving on the anchor to make sure it was secure, I snorkeled my way to shore, where Rebecca anchored the dinghy. The coral was sparse but the stag horn coral was long and intricate looking very healthy. I only saw a couple shy black tip sharks and one 10 pound snapper. But in all, there was little fish life in this corner of the lagoon. Walking into shore, one baby black tip shark darted in like a marauding airplane. That got my feet hopping and splashing on the water! Was the little guy being curious or out to take a nip of an ankle!?

The small islands did not offer much opportunity for exploration. At low tide on the ocean side reef, we did see a nice baby moray eel. Possibly on a calmer night, at low tide, this reef might be good for lobstering.

Over the next two days, we caught up on our lack of sleep and ate more than enough to make up for what we didn't on the passage. We could not wait endlessly at Erikub for the winds to settle down. It seems for 6 months they have been blowing a consistent 20 knots and more with very few calm spells. We were ready for another bumpy ride.

We sailed out the lagoon and hung a left to head south in the protection of the reefs. For 6 miles we appreciated this protection before the storm. And much could happen in the 130 miles to Majuro.

At 8 degrees south latitude, we hit the transition line between drought and downpour. It was early evening, rain squalls developed as did the seas. Rebecca again took to her cave in the aft cabin. One squall lasted most of the night. The forty knots of wind came directly from Majuro!. We could sail south west or north east but not the south ease we needed. We were sailing just under the small staysail yet still sailing at 6 knots. Waves hit the side of the boat with thunderous kablams and the decks were awash. Our track on the chartplotter would have one wonder if we were lost! Wind was hovering right around 40 knots, driving rain and breaking waves were sending water through the forward hatch gasket even though the hatch had been wrapped with line to help protect the gasket.

Rebecca quickly grew accustomed to steady splashes on the back and head as water dumped in cupfuls. We have never in the entire time cruising had such a wet salty passage. The boat was a soggy salty mess inside and out by the time we got to Majuro the next day at noon time. All the traveling in circles somehow did little to affect our ETA.

As Rebecca says, "Returning to Majuro felt like coming back home in some ways. Not the home that you loved and missed, but the one as a teenager that you were trying so hard to leave. So many people, American and locals were still here, still working their same jobs, drinking at the same bars or whatever small bits of entertainment can be found. The grocery store changed names/owners, the puppies had grown into dogs, and the price of gas had risen, but really, everything was still the same. At least we knew exactly where to go for every part we needed and within a few days we not only had everything we needed to do real repairs, and more provisions, but Patrick ("Why Wait") Childress had all of the repairs made. We visited with some old cruising friends, and within 4 days we were ready to carry on.

Fingers crossed that we have a nice dry run to Fiji, over 1500 miles to our southeast... we hope to go straight through, bar soggy surprise or stops in remote atolls between here and there. June 6 we are scheduled to go in to the boat yard at Vunda Point for bottom paint etc. If so it will be straight from the ocean to land. A sure recipe for land sickness... and wanting to get back sailing again.