Big eyes, big hair, big smiles.

Marovo Lagoon is a paradise made famous by James Michener apparently. But in recent times we'd heard mixed reports from other yachties. There was talk of anchor fees, continual harassment from the carvers that the Lagoon is famous for, and also extensive logging which scuppered their attempts to become a world heritage site. So we nearly skipped it altogether. Very glad we didn't. We love it here. Are very much in James Michener's camp, wherever that is. Jeremy on 'Nalukai', who was the most reluctant of the four of us adults to spend time here, also loves it. Instead of anchoring in a remote spot and waiting for the carvers to turn up in their boats, we decided to poke our stick right into the hornets' nest and anchor off Telina Island, the centre of the carvers. That way, instead of all coming out to the boat we can walk around the island and meet them in their own homes. And we've found them very charming and pleasant company. Jack and I were keen to meet the famous so-called John Wayne, who established Marovo's reputation for carving. His large rambling garden & homestead is just across the way from us - not on the island but on the mainland. We like him very much - he's a great enthusiast and quite a character. Whereas his son Vaeno - also a carver - is quieter but also very pleasant. We've bought a few carvings, I have to admit. Beautifully crafted, but perhaps a little more ornate than we'd normally choose. Jack & I weren't too sure about them when we saw them on another boat. But we've ended up doing the same thing. Irresistible really, and had to buy some mementos somewhere along the way. We've also made friends with John's brother Alex and his wife Zenia, who joined us for coffee/breakfast yesterday. Alex with an arm heavily scarred from a shark attack, and Zenia with a missing eye from a wayward fishing line. Early tomorrow we're going bird watching with them. There are heaps of hornbills and parrots here. They're lovely people, and we feel that this is one of the warmest communities we've come across - putting us in mind of our previous good experiences at Ninigo Atoll & Lif Island PNG. Before here we hadn't really got to know many Solomon Islanders, so it's been nice to establish that connection. Jack & I don't mind being the oldies though. While we entertain people like Alex & Zenia, 'Nalukai' has a dozen or so canoes hanging off the back, and dozens of children climbing up their steps and jumping off the sides. Good photography practice for Iona though. She doesn't have to move far! This morning John paddled out before church (they're all SDAs) to deliver us some Easter baking. Cassava cake baked in a smoky oven is probably not much to Western tastes. But we were touched. 'Nalukai' had similar gifts from another family. The logging, which is still going on sadly, is not much visible from the Lagoon. It's a very beautiful spot, and very friendly. Certainly we'd love to come back here in the future, which is quite feasible. We're Marovo Lagoon converts!

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Since Raja Ampat, Indonesia we've done little snorkelling. PNG & Solomons do have great sites apparently, but we didn't find them. And also it was the wrong time of year for good weather/visibility. And our experience in Rajah Ampat was such that we were a bit spoilt. Little motivation to explore average sites. But here in the Arnavon Islands Marine Sanctuary we've come across a place to rival Rajah Ampat. Indeed it's superior to most Rajah Ampat sites. At Rajah Ampat we saw an amazing array of critters, but we went to a dozen or more sites which each offered something different. Here in Arnavon we've seen so much all at one spot. Wonderful coral gardens, a huge profusion of fish large & small, many giant clams, large turtles, giant humphead parrotfish & sharks etc etc. In fact just about everything we saw in Rajah Ampat except manta rays. A wonderful environment - but sadly only possible when you keep humans out! Speaking of humans, the good natured rangers here are popular with yachties, although we only met Francis as his two mates were off doing tasks on the mainland. But he's a lovely chap, and took us all to watch a turtle nest hatching on our first evening here. The 'Nalukai' girls were very excited about this of course, and had to be restrained from carrying all the hatchlings down to the water. After the deluge at Ghizo, very calm settled weather for our Solomons tour thus far.

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Well, mixed results really I guess. Disappointing how the Black Caps capitulated so meekly in the Cricket World Cup final. And that we got into the final of the 40th Anniversary Hong Kong Sevens tournament, only to be soundly beaten by the Fijians. But the good news was that Brigadoon caught three good-sized fish in one day! A spanish mackerel (great eating), a tuna and a blue trevally. Admittedly in a stretch of water where the fish were fighting each other to get on the hook (on the way to the Reserve, not in the Reserve). But a fine achievement nevertheless.(Normally we'd stop fishing after our first catch, but on this occasion we knew we had the use of Nalukai's fridge & freezer in addition to our own fridge.)

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Motored 30nm from our keyhole anchorage across calm seas to join 'Nalukai' at their Blue Lagoon. Bright turquoise water, and anchoring in 10'. (We have lost 'Honey' at present, who are doing a separate tour with guests from home). The whole area seems very remote, but as chance would have it there were two chaps housed in a hut at the end of the island. They turned up at 7am with a catch of crays, squid & coral trout for us, refusing our offers of trade with shakes of the head and grins. So very kind of them. Well, 'Nalukai' did manage to foist some gifts on them, and the two boats had a shared feast in the evening. Jeremy & I spent some time in the afternoon wading thru the estuary looking for bone fish - a species which as a fly fisherman he sets high store on - while Jack and the girls did crafts. From there to beautiful Bonsai Beach 'Nalukai' did the more daring Susuku Channel, while we did the longer chicken run up the Hamilton Channel. At least we were rewarded with some stunning scenery - vast acres of bright turquoise coral flats. 'Nalukai' is now on her way to the marine sanctuary at the Arnarvon Islands, and has just radioed to tell us to get our lures ready - they're pulling them in one after the other (when the sharks don't get them first). Well, we'll get our gear ready, but I think the fish are pretty safe with us.

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'Nalukai' and us in a lovely anchorage last evening, until unpleasant fellow came demanding 'kastom' fee. So promptly left. This morning Jack & I negotiated some very narrow entrances - reach out and touch the sides - into a little keyhole anchorage. Very jungly and pristine. Fish jumping, turtles & raucous birdlife. Parrots, cockatoos and very large hornbills - which Jack is trying to get a shot of, while I sit here tapping on my little machine. How wonderfully noisy and poorly designed for flight they seem - but how exuberantly decorated those males!

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