Brilliant's Log 05-09

6 July 2009, Sadler Point Marina, Jacksonville, Fl to Cumberland Island, GA

After all the repairs and waiting for parts, we finally got underway from Sadler Point Marina. They had been very good to us during our too long stay, but it was great to be going.

Naturally, the moment we decided to leave a nasty little thunderstorm popped up. We could have waited for a couple of hours for it to go by or say the heck with and go. We choose the later and had cleared the Ortega River Bridge before it caught up with us. It blew 20 knots, some lightening and rain, but not too bad. By the time we got to downtown Jacksonville the worst of it was over. I guess we need to test our courage a little after the storm that put us on shore.

We had timed the tide right and had an uneventful motor down the St. John's River. Waved to a passing TowBoat US boat and it turned out to be Captain Randy, who had come to our aid when we'd been blown ashore. We chatted on the VHF radio and promised to say hello, under social conditions only, when we returned in the fall.

A little while later we received a call from our Markel Insurance agent with really great news. Our insurance claim was accepted in total and the check (minus our deductible, of course) should be arriving within a week. Great news to start our trip! Yeah!

The weather forecast was not good for an offshore passage. We decided to stay inside, driving up the ICW, until we have can get favorable weather. When we reached the ICW, we turned north off the St. Johns River. The marshes between the St. Johns River and Fernandina Beach are a stunning natural wildlife area. We saw many dolphins, osprey, and a least one eagle. Then a special treat, feeding along the banks of the many marshy islands along this stretch we started seeing Roseate Spoonbills. Stephanie had always wanted to see one, so it was a real thrill for both of us.

Even with a late start we made excellent progress and decided to continue to Cumberland Island. We anchored just before dark, off the entry to the National Park. After we'd settled in for the night, Pete discovered a problem with the new house bank batteries. It's a very frustrating issue dealing with how the batteries are charged and he is struggling to it figure out. It's much too technical to get into here, but the good news is that we can still start the engine and keep the lights on. So we'll be ok.

Log 44 NM



7 July 2009 Cumberland Island, GA to Wally's Leg, GA

We got an early start to catch the high tide that would bring us through the shallows behind Jekell Island, GA. Only one bump on the bottom and we were through. We stopped early in a very nice anchorage along side the ICW in the saltwater marshes of GA. The notoriously shallow Little Mud River section will be our challenge for tomorrow morning on the high tide.

Weather still isn't look good for an outside passage. It maybe as late as the 11th before we can get offshore and make a big jump, but at least we are moving.

Log 40 NM


8 July 2009 Wally's Leg, GA to Vernon River, GA

Another early start to make the high water for the Little Muddy River the "worst stretch of the ICW." With white knuckles on the steering wheel we passed through this section without a problem by waiting for the right tide. Had we tried it at mid to low water we couldn't have made it through.

Our long day finished with thunderstorms as me bumped our way through Hell Gate another shallow spot on the ICW. Hell Gate had been reported as dredged to 12', but we ran immediately aground as soon as we entered the channel. The tide was falling, so we were very happy we were able to get loose from the soft sand. Seems they didn't quite dredge ALL of the channel, so we carefully picked our way out of this mile long section. With rain coming down in buckets we motorsailed the last 5 miles to the Vernon River and anchored for the night.

Log 62 NM


9 July 2009 Vernon River, GA to Beaufort, SC

Departing just before seven we made the 10AM Skidaway Bridge opening. This set us up to arrive at high water for Elba Island Cut, Fields Cut, Watts Cut and Ramshorn Cut. All these cuts have a tendency to shoal, but we were able to clear all of these hazards without a problem. The real challenge for the morning was the cool temperatures and rain. As we reached the intersection of the ICW and Savannah River it really started to pour and visibility dropped to less than a quarter of a mile. There were several large commerial ships transiting the river, but with good communication via the VHF radio we were able to safely coordinate our passing.

After clearing those hazards we pressed on for Beaufort, SC, anchoring just short of the Lady Island Bridge in the middle of a curve on the river.

Log 45NM



10 July 2009 Beaufort, SC to Charleston, SC

Underway at 0615 to reach the Lady Island Bridge before it's last morning opening at 0700. We promptly ran aground when Pete turned too soon into a shoal he knew was there. Embarrassed, but no damage done; we quickly backed off and were on our way again. No problem going through the three cuts and the shoals at the Dahoe River entry. Again the key to these sections is to time the tides for high water. The extra 7'- 8' of water really takes the stress away.

We anchored off the City Docks in Charleston and decided to wait a day for a short weather window. We used the time for some boat work, laundry and a bit of restocking.

Log 63 NM



12-13 July 2009 Charleston to Beaufort, NC

Good wind as forecast greeted us as we passed Ft. Sumter and entered the Atlantic. Close hauled until we reached the sea buoy, we then put the wind behind us and sailed for the next 27 hours. With the 15-20 knots of wind out of the south, we were averaging around 7 knots SOG and covered 160 nm in the first 24 hours. The fastest Brilliant has ever done in 24 hours! Around 1400 Monday afternoon we had to cross through a weather front. Some rain showers and a little lightening, but nothing too bad. It did however kill our wind and we had to motor the rest of the way to Beaufort. Arriving in the dark and rain made the passage of the Beaufort Inlet a bit more challenging than we like, but we were safely anchored off the city docks on Taylor Creek by 2330.

Log 213 NM


14-15 July 2009, Beaufort, NC

Our refrigeration had died just as we were getting to Charleston, so we ordered a new one, rather than trying to repair an 8-year old unit. Seemed like a logical thing to do and it only took two days to for the new units to arrive via General Delivery to the waterfront Post Office. All was well as Pete removed the old unit, however as he was almost finished with the install of the new evaporator the coolant tube snapped. No refrigeration for us. We made an attempt to find someone to repair it, but had no luck. Rather than try to fix it in Beaufort we decided we'd continue north and try again in Norfolk, VA. We are learning how to live with plenty of store bought ice to keep our food cool.

Log 0 NM


16 July 2009 Beaufort, NC to Bellhaven, NC

Departing Beaufort 1 hour after low tide, gave us a favorable flood tide most of the way to Adam's Creek. Foul weather continues as we were caught by a summer thunderstorm entering the wide Pamlico River. Lightening wasn't too bad and the rain was warm. After another long day of motoring we made it into Bellhaven, NC with plenty of light left. The anchorage in Bellhaven is one of our favorites along the ICW. Great protection, good holding and lots of room to safely anchor. It also a nice town, but we really didn't have time to go ashore this visit.

Log 60NM



17 July 2009 Bellhaven, NC to Alligator River Marina, NC

Another ugly day and we pushed hard to beat a forecast storm. After navigating the 20 NM long Alligator-Pungo Canal we entered the Alligator River. The river is about 3-4 miles wide and shallow and can be very nasty if the wind picks up against you. Luckily we had the wind on our stern as it picked up to 15-20 kts. Finally having a chance to shut the engine down, we were surfing at 7.5 knots with all sails up. We made it through the swing bridge and into Miss Wanda's (as we call the Alligator River Marina) well before the storm hit. We had dinner out and made it back to the boat before a really bad storm cell hit bringing 45-knot puffs and lots of rain. We were very glad to be tied up in a marina!

Log 46NM



18 July 2009 Alligator River Marina, NC to Great Bridge, VA

Waited until around 10 AM for the weather to improve slightly and departed for the Albemarle Sound. Light west wind and threatening clouds followed us across, but we enjoyed an uneventful motorsail to Coinjock. The Currituck Sound is long, narrow and boring, but the light wind on the nose and improving weather made it seem to go quickly. Passing the Pungo Ferry in Virginia we decided to press on and made the 1830 Northlanding Bridge opening, then a straight shot to Great Bridge Locks in Chesapeake, VA where we tied up to a free dock around 1930.

Log 63NM


19-20 July 2009 Great Bridge, VA

With high hopes for a speedy evaporator repair, we decided to wait at Great Bridge for the Atlantic Yacht Basin repair shops to open on Monday. Sunday we hadn't planned on much, but John & Sharon Peterson, who we met through Navy Norfolk Sailing Association, graciously offered the use of one of their cars and invited us to Sunday dinner. We had a great dinner and really enjoyed our time with them.

Early Monday morning I was at the repair shop at 0800. After getting a bit of a run-a-round, I ended up in the front office, where I was finally able to ask about fixing the evaporator. The guy took one look at it, shook his head and said, "Sorry, that's the aluminum part, the tube is too thin to weld. Can't be fixed."

Ouch! We'll try a couple of other options when we reach Maine, but I think we'll probably end up having to buy another new evaporator. In the meantime, we are schlepping ice to keep the box cool.

Log 0 NM


21 July 2009 Great Bridge, VA to Naval Station Norfolk, VA

Weather forecast is showing a weather window to head from Cape Charles, VA to Buzzard Bay, MA. The wind is supposed to be SW 10-15 for three days, exactly what we need to make the 395 NM passage.

We fueled at Atlantic Yacht Basin, best price we've seen in a very long time for diesel at $1.99 per gallon! We decided not to fill our water tanks after the attendant said, "The water's not bad. But every so often, green algae comes out of the hose." No thanks! We'll need to top up the water somewhere else before we head offshore.

At the Great Bridge Locks we were raised to three feet to enter the Elizabeth River. Then motored past all the industrial companies on the shorelines and the Navy ships in port at Naval Station. We decided to spend the night at Navy Norfolk Sailing Center Marina and plan on catching the outgoing tide tomorrow.

Log 20 NM


22 July 2009 Navy Norfolk Sailing Center Marina

Checked the forecast this morning and things have changed. There is a fast moving storm in the Bahamas that looks like it would catch us on Thursday afternoon if we leave today. So looks like we'll sit here until Friday and leave after the storm blows by. Fingers crossed.

Log 0 NM