#14-03 Brilliant's Log, 23 October-11 November 2003

Hi Everyone,

It has been a tough couple of weeks as we slowly made our way to Turkey. It seemed the weather windows kept getting shorter and shorter and the gales stronger, we are very happy to have a safe harbor.

Last log of the season, hope you've enjoyed cruising with us.

Pete & Stephanie Peterson
s/y "Brilliant"




23-26 October 2003, Wednesday-Sunday, Lakki, Nisos Leros

The weather has been blowing up a southern gale for the past week an we are really ready to move on. On Saturday, we thought we had a window to slip south. The wind was supposed to turn west the north so we paid our marina fee and headed out.

The seas were pretty rough as we left the protection of the harbor, and the wind was of course on the nose, but not too strong. We had been hoping for a lee on the east side of Kalimnos, but were disappointed as the seas were just as steep there. The wind remained on our nose and we pounded into it for about two and a half hours making only seven miles. We were not having fun and decided to return to Lakki. The return trip to was much more comfortable, but just wasn't getting us where we want to go.

Next morning the wind finally shifted to the north and we headed out again. We set sail as soon as possible and once through the strait between Leros and Kalimnos had the wind dead on the stern. After about a hour of trying to keep the sails from flogging in the still rolly seas, we put the jib away and motor sailed for about an hour. As the north wind increased we shut the engine down and sailed at 4-6 knots on the mainsail alone. I was glad we had rigged the preventer, because as the day wore on the sea kept building.

Approaching Kos, we found ourselves surfing down three meter waves in 25-30 knots of wind. The Bodrum Sail Week Regatta was in progress and there were over forty boats racing in the nasty weather, all we wanted was to get to port. After dodging several boats beating to weather we passed a boat that had been dismasted. They had plenty of help from the race committee boat in cutting the rig away, but not a pretty sight.

We cruised through the old harbor of Kos, but even though it was nearly empty decided to go into the marina. Even if it costs more at least it has shore power for our electric heaters. These north winds have really cooled it down.

Log 35 NM


27-31 October 2003, Monday-Friday, Kos Marina, Nisos Kos, 3654N/2718E

Safely in Kos and the north wind has been blowing at gale force fairly steady since we arrived. The boats from the Bodrum Regatta arrived in force on Monday and filled the marina. It was quite a show as they bumped and banged into their berths in the high winds. It was even a better show the next morning as they departed with 25 knots blowing in the marina.

We have decided we will just sit tight and wait for the weather we need to get us to Rhodes and the on to Turkey. With about 240 miles to go and lot's of time we don't need to hurt ourselves getting there.

On Thursday the wind slowly increased through the day until by the afternoon it was howling a full gale again. This time the wind was from the south. We were smart in waiting it out in the marina.

By morning the wind was back down and we decided with a fair forecast to head out. It was a bit disconcerting that as soon as we cleared the marina breakwater the left over seas and 20 knot wind hit us... on the nose of course. It took over an hour to clear the eastern cape on Kos and finally leave the lea shore behind and the wind an sea on our beam. Unfortunately after less then an hour we lost most of the wind and ended up motoring the rest of the way to Simi.

The trip took a bit longer than planned an we arrived at the little harbor of Panormittis on Simi after dark. Coming through a narrow channel in the dark definitely raises the pucker factor. The flashing navigation light on one side gave us a clear reference point to port. To starboard it was listening to the wave crash on the rocks, another clear reference point. Having been in the harbor last season we had knowledge of the harbor so it wasn't too scary.

We had the anchorage to ourselves, so had no trouble finding a safe place to set the anchor and get settled in for the night.

Log 43 NM


1 November 2003, Saturday, Panormittis, Nisos Simi, 3633N/2750E

Forecast was for winds of 10-15 knots on the nose, but with only 26 miles to Rhodes we decided to just tough it out. The wind stayed steady at 20 knots plus and the seas, though not terrible, did took their toll on us. What a miserable slog it turned into!

Once in Mandraki Harbor in Rhodes Town, we had no trouble finding a safe berth with water, electric and after we laid out the anchor with sixty meters of chain we found out that they had added laid moorings. So we felt pretty secure out of the wind and seas.
Log 26 NM


2-5 November 2003, Sunday-Tuesday, Mandraki Harbor, Nisos Rhodes, 3627N/2813E

Rhodes, famous for the Colossus of Rhodes, was also a very important city during the crusades. For over two hundred years the Knights of St. John were here and much of the fortifications and walled city remain or have been reconstructed. A very nice place to wander around.

We decided to wait for a good forecast before casting off for Turkey, so spent our time in Rhodes sightseeing and stocking up on items we know we won't be able to find in Turkey.

On Tuesday the forecast looked good the southeast wind was going to veer to the west and though not predicted to be strong at least it shouldn't be another slog.

With a clear sky and no wind we motored out of Madraki in the afternoon. Our plan was for a pleasant overnight passage to Kas, 72 miles to the east south east. About four hours later, just at sunset, we suddenly started getting a ground swell from the east. This was unexpected and not appreciated because it usually proceeds a strong wind. Yep, within half an hour the wind piped up to 15-20 knots. On the nose, so much for accurate forecasts.

We brought out the sails and turned to the northeast hoping to find some relief from the seas nearer the Turkish coast. Hard on the wind, close hauled, it looked like we would not be able to make Kas, but as we got closer in we got suckered by a moderation in the conditions and decided to return to course and motorsail into the wind. The further east we went the worse the conditions became. The seas though not too big were breaking over the bow making for a very wet crew. Also in addition to the seas and wind, the current was running against us.

What should have been an easy 14-15 hour trip, turned into 21 hours. By the time we had had enough there were really no good places to duck into along the coast and we were well past the half way point so we just gutted it out. It was around noon when we arrived.

Kas harbor is very small and with 30 knot winds howling it was great to be able come in and tie up side to. Exhausted, we cleaned up the boat a bit and made the mistake of hitting the sack for some sleep instead of checking into Turkey.

Log 72 NM


6 November 2003, Thursday, Kas, Turkey, 3612N/2838E

After a nice breakfast that we paid too much for, I began the painful process of checking in to Turkey. First I go to the Harbor Master, "No first you must buy a transit log." So, back to the harbor I find where they sell the logs. Then back to the Harbor Master, "No, n ow you go to Passport Police." Fine across town to the passport police, "No, first you must see customs and get your Visas." Ok, I find Customs they are on lunch break, thirty minutes later they are open. "No, first you must go to the Health Office." I stop at the tourist office to get directions and actually find the office. They are very nice and ask the usual questions about the health on board and if anyone died on the voyage. I actually get the first of the required stamps on the transit log!

Feeling good that I'm making progress I head back to customs. I need Visa stamps for the passports, last year they were $65 this year $100, ouch. No problem will you take Euros or Turkish Lira, "Neither, you must have U.S. dollars." Why would I carry U.S. cash, so off to a bank to buy dollars. This takes two banks before I find someone who can handle the transaction, turn Euros to Lira to Dollars.

With the two "C" notes in hand I return to customs. Ever been in a Turkish prison? "We have a problem, your boat arrived yesterday, you arrived today." What! We were illegal aliens and will have to pay a fine. The fine started at $75 but I was able to get it reduced to $50 each. They did however graciously accept Turkish Lira for the fine. The customs people weren't pleased that we didn't check-in yesterday an expensive nap.

With the fine paid we were friends again, but before they will give me the stamp in the transit log I must go back to the passport police. They aren't happy because I don't have the harbor master's stamp yet, but decide to check us in anyway. Back to customs, we can now get the stamp from them... progress! Off to the Harbor Master, another stamp and the check-in is complete in under 3 hours! Total cost $240 plus the $100 fine. No jail time and valuable lessons learned.

Back on the boat the threatening clouds finally let loose and I took the time to tighten all of the dogs on the hatches. The last couple of storms took their toll below with way too much water getting in to the cabin. We'll see if this fixes the leaks.

Log 0 NM


7 November 2003, Friday, Kas, Turkey, 3612N/2838E

The efforts to tighten the dogs seems to have greatly reduced the leaks. It was still cloudy in the morning but by the time we picked up some FF&V and took care of the internet it had cleared.

We cast off and motored over to a mini-tanker ship that serves as the port Shell Oil station. The price of diesel was a bit of a surprise, about $.91 per liter; should have filled up in Rhodes. So with full tanks we made the short trip to Kekova Roads, in warm sunshine, calm seas and a following wind.

Kekova Roads is a very well protected area, that was an important city for the Lycians 2-3000 years ago. There are ruins an huge stone sarcophagi all around the shores.

Ugaciz Limani offer us a good anchorage and we'll stay here an extra day as long as the weather holds to explore.

Log 16 NM


8-9 November 2003, Saturday-Sunday, Ugaciz Limani, Kekova Roads, Turkey, 3611N/2952E

It was like a lake last night. The almost full moon an stars were reflected off the water perfectly. We sat it the cockpit for hours just enjoying the quiet that was only disturbed by the hooting of owls.

We spent Saturday on a long dinghy ride around Kekova Roads. We climbed up to a Medieval Castle left over from the crusades and had spectacular views of the Roads and surrounding ruins. Then we cruised by the sunken city on Kekova Adasi (island). For over a mile you could see the foundations, mostly carved out of the rock and sunken quays along the shore. It would have been interesting to snorkel along here, but they don't allow it. A very good day!

Sunday morning a north wind came up and cooled things off, time to get moving again. All set to go and the anchor windlass decides to not work. Worried about finding a berth in Finike, having heard they were full up, I haul forty meters of chain and the anchor in by hand and we are underway. Boy am I going to feel that tomorrow.

Arriving around noon we have no problem getting a berth, they just have no room if we wanted to stay for the winter. Finike is a very nice marina at $22 a day.

Used the afternoon to troubleshoot the windlass and found the wires to the foot switch corroded and one wire had come loose. I'll be able to fix it with a new set of wires when we get to Antalya. In the meantime, we'll use the remote switch from the cockpit. Colyn, maybe I'll attempt to wire that down switch while I'm at it.

Log 22 NM


10 November 2003, Monday, Finike Marina, Finike, Turkey, 3617N/3009E

And the rains came! Woke to a cold wet morning with strong wind and the realization we wouldn't be moving today. I guess with it being the middle of November you have to expect this.

We spent the day working on little projects below decks and still had plenty of time for reading.

Log 0 NM


11 November 2003, Tuesday, Finike Marina, Finike, Turkey, 3617N/3009E

A clear morning with a very cool breeze out of the north greeted us. We took advantage of the very nice hot showers in the marina before getting underway before ten.

Expecting a broad reach for the first couple of hours we quickly set sail in 10-15 knots of wind. "Brilliant" took off at 5-6 knots, a good start for the day, unfortunately 20 minutes later we lost the wind. Back to motoring again.

Rounding Taslik Burunu we found our wind and seas again... on the nose of course. As the bow began diving into the waves we started looking for shelter. Luckily we found it in Cavus Limani in a little cove on the north side of the bay.

We put out two anchors to be safe and spent the cool evening protected from the wind, but having to put up with a swell that worked its way into our cove. A very rolly night.
'
Log 21 NM


12 November 2003, Wednesday, Cavus Limani, Turkey, 3619N/3028E

An early start, but the seas were still pretty high for the first four hours and of course the wind was still right on the nose. We motored into it and with the help of a strong current actually made some good time. About three hours out of Antalya the wind died and the seas finally calmed down giving us at least a pleasant finish to the season.

We will be making Antalya our winter home and are looking forward to meeting the other cruisers that are wintering here and getting started on boat projects that we put off over the sailing season.

Log 32 NM

#13-03 Brilliants Log, 30 September -23 October 2003

Hi Everyone,

Well computer problems persist. Mid sentence I lost the letters o-s-t and the numbers 5 and 9. Then three days ago it took one drip too many of salt water from a leaking window and the monitor went out. So what you see is an abbreviated log for now. I am hoping to be able to reconstruct the missing days in the near future using a back up laptop.

Our travels have been good as we slowly make our way to Turkey. Right now we are holed up on the island of Leros in a little town we visited last summer, Lakki. There is another gale blowing outside the harbor, but we are snug in the marina. The temperatures are back in the 80s with the gale blowing out of the south, so at least we are back in shorts. Well wait for the winds to turn back to the north before we head on our way.

Pete & Stephanie Peterson
s/y "Brilliant"


30 September 2003, Tuesday, Aigina Town, Nisos Aigina, Greece, 3745N/2326E

We decided to do a bit of sightseeing as long as we were in Aigina and jumped on a bus that took us to one of the best preserved acropolis temples in Greece. A truly beautiful spot that had panoramic views of the Sardonic Gulf north to Athens and to the islands to the east and west. But on returning to "Brilliant: we departed the harbor without a second thought; Aigina is not a harbor to leave a boat unattended. The marina at Methane sounded interesting with its sulfur hot springs flowing into the marina.

Departing at 1500 we had no problems motoring the short distance and quickly found a spot in the marina. Mehana is called Vromolimani or "stinking shore" and gives off a characteristic rotten-egg smell. It has a long house on the west shore of the harbor that houses the sulpher baths, which is supposed to help people with rheumatic diseases. The good news... only three euros per night for the boat here. I guess the smell of sulfur in the air turns folks off, but we didn't find it that objectionable. It kind of reminds me of the drinkng water we had in Florida in the 50's.

Bottom line the boat will be secure here and in fact Yannis, the marina manager, came by and chatted with us. He told of his travels as a merchant seamen and his visits to America. We listened attentively and half an hour later he came back and passed us a laid mooring line to make sure "Brilliant" would be secure while we were away and promised to keep an eye on her for us.

Log 11 NM



1-5 October 2003, Wednesday-Sunday, Methana, Peloponnesus, Greece 3734N/2323E

We caught the Methana to Pireaus ferry at 1040 and then the Pireaus-Chania ferry at 1600. The cost was less than 30 euros per person, not bad. We arrived in Chania at around 2200 and one of our friends picked us up at the ferry.

The time on Crete was wonderful and we ended up seeing more of our friends during this short visit than we did wintering over in Chania last year. We even had the chance to help with the grape harvest and stomp grapes with Greek friends.

It was a good trip and we managed to fill several bags with food and supplies we can't find in Europe. Plus we had lot's of mail including the radar I'd ordered to replace the broken one.

The return trip was a bit more challenging as we had to haul way too much stuff back. I know the bag drag will be worth it this winter when we can enjoy alot of things we won't be able to find in Turkey. It only took about twelve hours to get back to Methana, but it was an overnight on the ferry. We were pretty pooped by the time we got all the bags back aboard "Brilliant".

Log 0 NM


6-7 October 2003, Monday-Tuesday, Methana, Peloponnesus, Greece 3734N/2323E

Monday was a boat day. It was a sunny day with a good breeze, so Stephanie decided to wash EVERYTHING. She spent the better part of six hours doing all the laundry by hand but all the laundry bags are empty. I worked an engine oil change and other minor greasy engine room projects.

It was interesting to note that the mists from the hot sulfer springs had competely stripped the bronze finish off both of our boat hooks. What's even more amazing we had never even put them in the water. We just hope that it killed all the barnacles and grass growing on the bottom of "Brilliant".

Tuesday morning we filled the water tanks and larder before heading out. As soon as we cleared the harbor we found a fresh breeze from the south and quickly brought out the sails. We had just finished trimming the sails, when we noticed a wind line in the distance with lots of white caps and the direction seemed to be northwest. Taking no chances we rolled in the jib until we could sort it out. The wind was funneling between the Methana peninsula and the island of Aiginia and while it wasn't as bad as it looked from the distance ,we were glad we'd shorted sail. With the wind steady we found ourselves now on a port tack, close reaching, with 12-18 knots of wind with a reefed jib. We enjoyed about two hours of 6 knot speeds quartering a one to two meter swell; quite a ride. Once behind the island of Aiginia we lost the swell and the wind held for three more hours, slowing moving from the North to West.

When the wind started dying on us, we were passing Poseidon's Temple at Sounion on a broad reach. The sails were beginning to flog in the light wind and swell while making only around two knots; we reluctantly started the engine. Arriving on Nisos Kea around 1830 we had no trouble finding a spot on the quay in the little town of Vourkari. We med moored stern to the quay and luckily I looked down as the boat neared the quay... shallow ballasting went out a good meter from the edge and would have done nasty things to the rudder.

We didn't feel like going back out and mooring bow to even though our passerelle (gangway) wouldn't reach the quay. So we decide since the quay was very low we would use the dinghy as a bridge and it worked fine.

We went out for dinner and were a little disappointed. The price was high, we must be still too close to Athens, and the quality wasn't very good for simple taverna food. Guess we were spoiled by our visit back to Crete.

Vourkari is a nice safe harbor and with a forecast on the Navtex hinting at strong southerly winds tomorrow it looks like a good place to be.

Log 45 NM


8 October 2003, Wednesday, Vourkari, Nisos Kea, 3740N/2419E

The rat hunter prevails!

Yep, woke to find that something had been nibbling on the apples. A few droppings, must be time to break out the traps again. At least this time I mentioned it to Stephanie before she got surprised by it. A quick search revealed no major attacks on the stores. We knew what to do this time and quickly secured all the other food stuff in safe lockers and set the trap in the v-berth where I caught the last one. Then over our morning coffee discussed strategy.

The forecast wind had come up and as I opened the anchor locker to check on how our anchor was doing, I noticed an odd looking line amongst the space chains and shackles. Then the little line disappeared and a rather large rat scurried around looking for a better place to hide. Quickly slamming the anchor locker hatch a plan of attack was put together. First don't let it get below; so we closed all the forward hatches. Next get a good weapon; the trusty broom looks good. The anchor locker is triangluar shaped maybe two foot across and only about a foot deep and there isn't any for way the rat can get below from there, so the plan was to get him out of the locker and sweep him off the boat... easy!

Slowly I reopened the anchor locker and started removing the spare anchor snubber; then the trip lines and floats; then the extra chain; boy we have a lot of stuff up here. The rat keeps finding a new spot to hide each time I think I have him cornered. I attack with the broom; the rat moves to port; dives under a the chain and dodges my might broom jabs. Finally, I gain the upper hand and force him on deck; as I work to sweep him into the sea, he deftly ducks behind a stantion on the outside of the toerail. Before I recover the rat races aft and dives into the cockpit. Did we think to close the main cabin or drop in the hatch board no. Luck was with us and the rat chose to hide under a London Sunday Times a neighbor had just given us. Quickly correcting the error of the open hatch we are spared the rat making an escape below.

Now the battle begins! I flush the rat, it tries to hide but there is no where left. I scrambles to the cockpit sole where finally with a telling blow from the broom I stun the beast. A quick grab at the tail and a toss leaves the rat sleeping with the fishes. We REALLY need to get some rat guards.

The forecast is for a south west gale today and we have passed that on to the charter boats that are here. One decided to go out and returned thirty minutes later saying, "The winds are over thirty knots out there." No kidding.

So today we'll sit tight keep an eye on the boat and enjoy our free copy of the London Sunday Times.

Well that was the plan, but things change. The weather forecast talked of the winds shifting to the north west, but they didn't mention a frontal passage with 50 plus knots of wind. We had been watching the anchor through the day and were concerned that we didn't have enough chain out and unfortunately we were right to worry.

Around 1700 a very ugly thunderstorm appeared and move very quickly in our direction. I'm talking really ugly, you know, very black with those funny looking clouds that say trouble. We started clearing the deck and battening hatches, but it was still a surprise as the first blast hit us on the beam.

We later learned from another boat that the first blast was in excess of 50 knots and our Bruce anchor started dragging. We quickly started the engine and with serious rain/sleet/hail falling we got ready to get underway. Fortunately, the Bruce reset itself and we only dragged about ten meters. This left us cocked almost 45 degrees to the quay, our stern inches off the concrete and the bow precariously close to the boat on our starboard side. Through the worse part of the storm we stayed like that with the engine in forward to help keep the stern off the quay and standing by with fenders if the anchor dragged any further.

With the first lull in the wind the bow finally came back up and we decided we'd better go while we had the chance. Loosing the stern lines we came away from the mooring at full power to avoid the boats to either side. Stephanie on the bow was able to get the anchor up without problem, that done we were safely at sea and could regroup.

We decided to try mooring again and with a bit more chain out and help with the lines from our neighbors we are again tied "safely" up to the quay. As soon as everything was secure I looked up and saw the most beautiful rainbow, wow, everything is going to be alright.

Running the motor worked out well, because we heated up water fr h hwer

Log 1 NM


9 October 2003, Thursday, Vourkari, Nisos Kea, 3740N/2419E

Hit with a wind fifty plus knot gale again during the night. The anchor held and we motored to ensure the boat stayed off the quay for about three hours.

Log 0 NM


10 October 2003, Friday, Vourkari, Nisos Kea, 3740N/2419E

Left for Andros in the morning. Good sailing for half the trip then as we neared the Kaferas Strait the wind started hitting us on the nose.


Log 27 NM


11 October 2003, Saturday, Batsi, Nisos Andros, 3751N/2446E

Very nice little harbor and town. Rented a car and saw the a bit of the island.

Log 0 NM


12 October 2003, Sunday, Batsi, Nisos Andros, 3751N/2446E

With 20-30 knots of north wind on our beam we flew south. A new speed record for us on "Brilliant"; 8.6 knots on the GPS and log.

Log 28 NM


13 October 2003, Monday, Tinos, Nisos Tinos, 3732N/2525E

20-26 knots of wind again, but today with 2-3 meter seas on the stern quarter. High speed but a very uncomfortable ride. So we slipped into an anchorage on the southside of Mikonos to wait for better tomorrow.

Log 12 NM


14 October 2003, Tuesday, Ormos Ornos, Nisos Mikonos 3725N/2520E

The day started very slow, but the wind filled in along with the seas before we reached Naxos. We ended up surfing down some very good sized waves. At one point we were joined by two porpoise that were enjoying the big waves.

Log 20 NM


15 October 2003, Wednesday, Naxos, Nisos Naxos, 3706N/2521E

A catch-up day in Naxos. Nice marina at a very reasonable price 10 euros with power.

Log 0 NM



16 October 2003, Thursday, Naxos, Nisos Naxos, 3706N/2521E

Gentle down wind sail down the west coast of Naxos then several hours of motoring before we finally got a fair breeze. The town of Katapola on Amorgos was very quiet and we met a nice couple from Alaska chartering a small yacht.

Log 38 NM

17 October 2003, Friday, Katapola, Nisos Amorgos, 3650N/2552E

Motored most of the way, then finished the last two hours with an excellent beam reach. Took a mooring in the east branch of a stark bay. Only one family lives on the island and charge a small fee the mooring.

Log 36 NM

18 October 2003, Saturday, Nisos Levitha, 3700N/2628E

Another great sail to Kalilimnos. Took a restaurant mooring in deep water and enjoyed a lovely dinner at the taverna.

Log 20 NM

19 October 2003, Sunday, Emborios , Nisos Kalimnos, 3702N/2655E

No wind, no sailing! Motored to the north end of Leros in a tiny secure bay as the forecast was for strong southerly winds.

Log 15 NM

20-21 October 2003, Monday-Tuesday, Partheni, Nisos Leros

Sat out the high winds for two days then headed south into 20-25 knot wind with 2 meter seas. No fun, but we needed FFV.

Log 11 NM

22 October 2003, Wednesday, Lakki, Nisos Leros

In the marina in Lakki, waiting out the weather

Log 0 NM

#12-03 Brilliant's Log, 18-29 September

Hi Everyone,

We have definitely covered ground since the last log and are now in the port of Methana, just south of Athens, Greece. We left "Brilliant" for a few days and took a ferry to Crete to visit friends and pick up a few essentials from the base at Souda Bay. It was a good trip and we even had the chance to stomp grapes with our friends Minolis and Litza!

The decision has been tentatively made to winter in Antalya, Turkey. Why Turkey? Lots of work we want to have done on the boat. The weak dollar just goes farther in Turkey. Lots of other cruisers winter there and mostly last season we just didn't get to see enough of Turkey. But of course first we have to get across the Aegean Sea, with the gales of autumn, and then we'll see where we actually end up.

Pete & Stephanie Peterson
s/y "Brilliant"



18-20 September 2003, Thursday-Saturday, Porto Vechiccio, Bari, Italy 4107N/1654E

After our morning coffee, we took the short walk from the quay to find a supermarket. With a two day passage ahead of us we needed some FF&V and a few other essentials. The large supermarket was too far away, so we settled for a small one and then stopped by the fruit and veggie market on the way back to the boat.

Yesterday, checked out the fuel dock and found that it only had 1.5 meters of depth next to it... we draw 1.8 meters. So, I took the dinghy over with my one 25 liter jerry can. Luckily, they offered to loan me a couple of theirs, so it only took one trip to get the fuel we needed. It was, however expensive at .88 euros per liter. Sailing more has definitely reduced our fuel bill.

At 1045 Stephanie backed us off the quay and we set our course. The wind was light 6-8 knots, but with an easy following sea we were able to set sail as soon as the batteries were recharged. On a broad reach we kicked back and barely touched the sails for the next twelve hours making 3-5 knots. We had decided to sail as much as possible even if we weren't making much speed.

The course we choose kept us out of the main shipping channel until about 0200 and then it seemed we were positioned perfectly with north bound traffic passing well to port and south bound traffic on the starboard side.

The passage was uneventful and we were able to get into a good routine. We have not done many multi-day passages, so we tried a watch schedule out that seems to work pretty well for us. We split the day into two six hour watches from 0600-1200 then 1200-1800 and then stood three hour watches through the night.

The trip took 52 hours and we were blessed by calm seas and following winds. As much as we wanted to sail the entire trip, the wind were just a bit too light and we drew the line at making less than 1 knot of speed. We were able to sail over half of the time and that was much better than we have been doing this summer.

The one bit of excitement was learning, just before we arrived in Levkas, that the engine idle had gotten out of adjustment. The engine stalled every time it was put in neutral. Waiting 15 minutes for the Levkas bridge to open was interesting as I learned how to keep the engine running by shifting fast, but we got through that safely. The wind was blowing off shore, so when the engine stalled as we backed up to the quay I didn't need to go into forward to stop the boat.

Safely in, we had early cocktails and a take- out roast chicken dinner from a grill just up the street; then early to bed.

Log 228 NM


21 September 2003, Sunday, Levkas Town, Nisos Levkas, Greece 3850N/2043E

Lazy day! When I tried to check into Greece for boat transit log and to get passports taken care I was told to come back tomorrow, everything is closed here on Sunday.

A good day to take care of boat chores. Route planning for the next week, laundry and I worked on the engine idle problem. I had thought the problem might have been a clogged fuel filter so I changed that and when it didn't fix the problem adjusted the idle screw to get the rpm right. It fixed it, but I wish I knew what caused it to change in the first place. This is cruising fun!

Log 0 NM


22 September 2003, Monday, Levkas Town, Nisos Levkas, Greece 3850N/2043E

I hate bureaucrats! Checking in to Greece was again every bit as painful as the last time. The port police weren't too bad, but the passport police and customs were just awful. It's hard to believe how long they can make the process take. Enough whining, sorry about that. Anyway we are legal in Greece again with our 30 Euro transit log, 76.30 Euro cruising tax and 15 Euro harbor taxes all paid.

By the time the check-in was completed it was too late to leave today, so we decided to stay one more day, taking care of boat chores and chatting with our neighbors.

Log 0 NM


23 September 2003, Tuesday, Levkas Town, Nisos Levkas, Greece 3850N/2043E

I caught the water man early and filled our tanks for 5 Euros. Stephanie went for the FF&V. Then all we needed was an arrival and departure stamp on the Transit Log before we were underway. We normally don't go to the Port Police if they don't ask us to visit, but since the transit log needs to have a starting place, I figured I better go. The Port Police charged us 19 Euros for three nights on the quay, which wasn't bad since we had found a place to plug into shore power.

Anyway we finally got away from the dock around 1100. The narrow Levkas canal is unique with marshes on either side filled with herons and egrets and castles on the hills above. We motored out into Ormos Dhrepanou and past Onassis' Skorpios Island. There wasn't a breath of wind on the water for the first hour. When it finally filled in a bit it was very light and variable, but we were able to get a few hours of sailing in. Naturally, as we approached our destination in the evening we had a steady 15 knots.

We slipped in behind Nisis Petalas, a large uninhabited island lying close off the mainland. Though it's a pretty open anchorage, the island provides good protection from the wind and we found good holding in 3 meters of water. There were four other boats in the anchorage, but with lots of room we enjoyed a very quiet night. After dinner we lay on the aft deck and took in the stars on a very clear night.

Log 35 NM


24 September 2003, Wednesday, Nisis Petalas, Greece 3824N/2107E

The trip to Messalonghi was unremarkable. Light winds made our attempts to sail rather frustrating, so we motored most of the day. Naturally just as we neared the channel into Messalonghi the wind piped up to 15 knots.

One bit of excitement on the trip was "Olga" the channel dredge laying across the channel. With "Olga" leaving no room to maneuver around it, we tried to contact them on the VHF with out response. Finally, seeing there was enough room around their bow, I started around them. As I watched the depth gauge hit 2 meters I realized this wasn't a good idea and started to hit reverse. About this time a man on the barge starts yelling for us to move by or back (I'm not sure which). I took that as a queue to go forward when I realized the boat was side to the now 15 knot wind and that the bow was falling down wind faster then the stern and if I didn't do something I was going aground in reverse. Now moving forward, I skillfully dodged the bow of the dredge and I watched the depth hit 1.5 meters (we draw 1.8 meters) and felt the keel digging a trench through the soft mud. A quick prayer and a little more throttle and we were safely clear. For the last mile to the quay we tried to figure out why we would be so dumb as to try something like that... that was really scary!

With a strong wind blowing off the quay we used an aft spring line to bring us alongside until we could get the other line tied. We weren't too pretty, but it did work.

Last time we were in Messalonghi we weren't able to get ashore... we didn't miss much. The harbor area in summer is crowded with tourist, but in late September it was deserted. We couldn't even find a post card for our collection. (the real reason Stephanie wanted to go there is that the book, "The Ladies of Messalonghi" is one of her favorites).

Log 26 NM


25 September 2003, Thursday, Messalonghi, Greece 3822N/2125E

Another tough day! We left Messalonghi early expecting the west wind to fill in as we headed in to the Gulf of Patras. Our trip going the other way we took a beating going against a 20 knot wind on the nose and a strong current and we were really counting on all that working for us this time.

Not to be! After an hour the wind filled in from behind and we unfurled the jib. We figure we had a great downwind sail for about 5 minutes before the wind turned on us. Suddenly the jib backed and we were hauling in sheets and sailing close hauled. The seas also started building and as the wind continued to rise we started reefing sails.

We needed to get through the narrows where they are building the new Rio suspension bridge. It is notorious for strong winds and currents and it didn't disappoint. By the time we got through the bridge we were seeing a steady 22-24 knot wind with gusts of 30 knots. Clear of the bridge we began beating into the wind and 2 knot current, but after almost two hours, making less then 5 NM, we finally gave up, started the engine and motored the rest of the way to Trevonia.

The unfinished marina was unchanged from our last visit, just fewer boats, making if very easy to find a good spot. We moored starboard side-to the quay and arriving just at the cocktail hour kicked back to lick our wounds from the hard passage.

We are moving fast through these spots we have visited before, concentrating more on just moving east towards our wintering berth.

Log 37 NM

26 September 2003, Friday, Trevonia, Greece 3822N/2205E

Today we expected the wind on the nose and weren't disappointed. By the time we were moored in Itea we had seen the wind go from 4 to 28 knots. The current was also working against us to make it even more fun. Determined to sail and save fossil fuel we sailed close hauled for the better part of three hours, slowly making our way east. The trip that should have taken five hours took six and a half.

It is always fun mooring with gusts of twenty plus knots, fortunately the marina (unfinished still) was very empty and we could choose a spot that let us come in side to with the bow into the wind. Our practice with the spring lines at the last two spots helped get us get tied up safely.

Not much new in Itea, but at least our friends the Port Police didn't stop by to collect any money during our stay.

Log 24 NM

27 September 2003, Saturday, Itea, Greece, 3826N/2225E

Light and variable winds make for poor sailing conditions. We motored to our next stop a great little harbor called Andikiron. We med moored in 11 meters of water and tied up to the high quay. It is a small quay with room for only about half a dozen yachts, but the town provides free water and electric. Free water! "Brilliant" finally had a freshwater washdown that she has needed for sometime.

Our friends the Port Police usually stop by the boat and ask you to come to their office to check in. This time it was very odd, we were just leaving the boat for a walk and here they come, but all he did was ask for the boat information, wrote it on a little pad and left. No collecting money? No stamp in the papers? We like it when they don't charge for the harbor stay.

A dinner out was a special treat for us. With the dollar doing so badly over here, we have been forced to watch the budget a little closer.

Log 21 NM

28 September 2003, Sunday, Andikiron, Greece, 3823N/2238E

Underway at 0900 in flat calm seas. A mackerel sky had us worried as it looked like bad weather was moving in, but after a few hours it cleared. No wind to sail with so another day of motoring.

In roughly the same place we saw the school of dolphins going west, we came upon them again. With the seas so calm we were able to see them from quite a distance and motored through a dozen pods of dolphins. We saw many mothers with their babies swimming in tandem; a few rode on our bow wake for a few minutes. The bonus was having a pilot whale come by and swim right under the boat.

Arriving in Corinth after six hours of motoring, we took care of boat chores and laundry. Then relaxed and enjoyed the evening from the cockpit.

Log 31 NM


29 September 2003, Monday, Corinth, Greece, 3757N/2256E

Another passage through the Corinth Canal. It's still the most expensive 3.2 miles (150 euros for us), but it does save us lot's of time not having to go around the Peloponnesos. Once again we had the canal to ourselves and with the autopilot driving the boat, we cruised through with a good current helping us make 6.5 knots. We both enjoyed the short trip again. It is an impressive view.

Per usual, the wind was on the nose coming out of the canal. So we motored all but the last hour into Nisos Aigina. There was supposed to be a marina in Aigina, but in typical Greek fashion, it isn't fully in operation. Unfortunately, it was full of local boats and their was no space to pick up a mooring.

With a good cross breeze blowing in the harbor we had the chance to practice our med mooring skills. It took me half a dozen tries to get "Brilliant" under control and backing straight, before we could get in to the quay. Naturally, as we double checked the anchor the chain kept coming in, the anchor wasn't set. Release the stern lines underway again for another try. The earlier practice made it less painful the second time and with 50 meters of chain out, we did finally get a good set.

Aigina is not what we expected, it's noisy crowded and we won't feel comfortable leaving the boat unattended here, so we'll spend an extra day sightseeing then move to another harbor before we take a ferry to Chania, Crete to visit friends.

Log 27 NM

#11-03 Brilliant's Log, 8-17 September 2003

Hi Everyone,

We have made our way back to Dubrovnik and then crossed the Adriatic Sea again and find ourselves in Bari, Italy. A cool wet September, so far, has taken a bit of the fun out of the end of summer and we continue to work south to find a bit of better weather.

Our plans for the winter are slowly solidifying and Antalya, Turkey is high on the list. We will see when we get there.

Bruce: What can you tell me about Dalaman AFB in Turkey?

Peter: Did you get my e-mail about our visit to "Mellow"?

We will switch back to our Greek cellphone number: (011) 30-697-6409464 as we return to Greek waters, probably by Friday.

Pete & Stephanie Peterson
s/y "Brilliant"


8 September 2003, Monday, Trogir, Croatia, 4338N/1614E

Today we went on a road trip to Split. With threatening skies and a rising east wind, we closed "Brilliant" up tight before we departed thinking it might just rain. The bus station was a short walk from our berth and we had no trouble getting round trip tickets. Unfortunately, we jumped on the first bus that said "Split" instead of waiting for the #37 bus. So of course our tickets weren't good and we had to pay. Not a big deal it was only about $2.50 for the 25 kilometer trip.

Our main objective in Split was to visit, what remains of Diocletian's Palace. It was a fabulous palace built in the 3rd century by the Roman Emperor Diocletian as his retirement home. The palace over the centuries has been absorbed into the town, but what remains is still pretty spectacular.

Heading back to Trogir, we actually managed to catch ol' #37 and got to use our tickets. About halfway back the rain caught up to us. The easy walk back to the boat turned into a very wet and soggy one. The wind had really whipped up a tide and a strong current; it was good to be safely tied up to a quay.

The rain stopped much later in the evening and after dinner we were able to sit in the cockpit again. It was amazing the number of people that stopped and wanted to chat.

Log 0 NM


9 September 2003, Tuesday, Trogir, Croatia, 4338N/1614E

A slow steady rain and cool temperatures greeted us in the morning. The Marinaro (dockhand) stopped by to collect the fees for the previous night and said we would have to leave because a Hungarian Sailing Regatta was coming in and had reserved the entire quay. Glad we had planned on leaving anyway.

With the rain stopping and the skies starting to clear and we were on our way. After all the wind yesterday and last night we had nothing for the first three hours. Then from the south, we started seeing thunderstorms in the distance and the winds start increasing... on the nose of course. Approaching the western cape of Hvar we watched as several waterspouts formed and dissipated. It was at this point we pushed the throttle forward just a bit and tried our best to beat this thunderstorm to Hvar Town. The storm won. 20-25 knots of wind and torrential rains that lasted only about ten to fifteen minutes, no waterspouts though. Thankfully, It was down to a light rain as we pulled into the crowded harbor of Hvar. It took only one pass through to see we wouldn't be able to find a place in the harbor, so we crossed south to a group of islands about a mile away with several good anchorages. As much as we wanted to visit Hvar it wouldn't have been fun if we were just worrying about the boat.

We found a well protected spot between Otok Planikovac and Otok Marinkovac. After swapping anchors to the "Brittany" for sand and weed, we had no trouble getting a good set. We lucked out that none of the other boats that followed us in anchored too close, because at about midnight (it always happens late) another thunderstorm hit. Quite a lightening show and lots of rain, we spun around the full 360 degrees and the anchor held well. At least two other boats dragged anchors and were motoring around the anchorage at the height of the storm. It pays to really make sure the anchor is well set.

Log 29 NM


10 September 2003, Wednesday, Uvala Zdrilca, Otok Marinkovac, Croatia, 4309N/1626E

Another day of rain. A friend in Crete had asked if we would look at a boat for sale in a marina at Vrboska, Hvar. We debated about going because Hvar is a big island and Vrboska is a about 20 miles away in the wrong direction. The grim weather made up our minds for us. Since we really weren't looking forward to a day of wet sailing, opted for a trip to Hvar Town. With a short break in the rain and very light wind, we put on our foul weather gear, jumped in the dinghy and zipped across the channel to Hvar.

We found the bus stop and caught the next bus to Vrboska. It took about an hour and we had some great views of the island on the way. It was raining pretty steady when we arrived, but we made our way to the marina and found the boat. The lady at the reception wouldn't let us aboard because it was raining? Oh well, we at least we got to see it from the outside.

Back to Hvar, we took a quick pass through the market for FF&V and a look around town. Another pretty medieval town with narrow alleys and very old stone buildings. Our business ashore concluded, we bailed the rainwater out of the dinghy, glad we thought to bring the bailing pump, and had a wet ride back to "Brilliant". At least the wind was light and there were no seas... just rain. The popcorn and green tea were a great warm up when we got home. The long range forecast is calling for more rain for at least the next five days, yuck.

Having taken a mooring ball that belonged to a restaurant ashore in the morning, we felt obligated to have dinner there. What a feast! Octopus salad, mussels, and a spaghetti scampi.

Log 0 NM


11 September 2003, Thursday, Uvala Zdrilca, Otok Marinkovac, Croatia, 4309N/1626E

Despite the dire forecast for five more days of rain, we woke to a beautiful clear morning. Now we can dry out all of our wet stuff and the boat. Boats are not fun places when you can't open hatches and have to keep bringing in wet cloths, shoes, cushions, etc. Makes it a bit steamy and smelly.

Slipped our line from the mooring ball, and headed south east to Korcula at 0900. We had a very nice downwind sail on a broad reach most of the day. The channel between Otok Korcula and the island north of it funnels and accelerates the wind and as we arrived it greeted us with 20 knots on the nose. We motored the last few miles, while watching the wind surfers flying back and forth across the channel.

We had stopped in the anchorage at Uvala Luka on the way north and had serious trouble finding a good spot for the night because it was so crowded. This time we had our choice of locations and were settled no time. Cleaning up we had just enough time to get ashore and do a bit of exploring before dark.

The old town of Korcula is another medieval town with its narrow streets, old buildings, walls and towers. We visited the churches and of course "Marco Polo's" house which is Korcula's main claim to fame.

Log 33 NM



12 September 2003, Friday, Uvala Luka, Otok Korcula, 4257N/1708E

The Brittany anchor came up covered in mud after an easy night. Catabatic winds of over 20 knots off the hills made it a bit confused as we departed Korcula, but once we cleared the island we were sailing.

The sailing was hard with the large swell running from the west and the wind shifting from a broad reach to a close reach through the day. Remember we are cruisers and we like to set the sails and then just kick back. Can't do that when the conditions keep changing, so we spent our time like racers constantly adjusting sails. It was a great run though and we made good time with full sails in 18 knots of wind. It's so good to be able to sail.

We arrived midday at Polace and again found a much quieter anchorage then the last time. We were able to pick a spot in the lea of a forested hill, anchored and ran a line to shore around a large pine tree to keep us tucked in out of the wind. This is the site of Mljet National Nature Park and we spent the afternoon touring this beautiful park. With wonderful protected saltwater lakes, an old Monastery, ancient Roman ruins and the green forests. It was a very nice afternoon.

What an interesting day for wildlife! We saw a large pod of dolphins, but none wanted to play on our bow today. We got to see some firsts, at least for us; a large swordfish making half a dozen leaps out of the water for no apparent reason; then in the bay at Polace, we watched schools of small silver fish exploding on the surface as they tried to escape the Herring Gulls swooping in on them... silly fish if they had only gone deep they might have had a better chance.

Log 17 NM


13 September 2003, Saturday, Polace, Otok Mljet, 4247N/1723E

With the weather still cool, we want to keep moving south. Departing around 0830 we weren't sure what to expect when we cleared the fjord like entry to Polace, but were pleasantly surprised. The seas had calmed overnight and we had a light breeze from the northwest, perfect for our course.

The sails were set for a broad reach and we shut the engine down. Making 2-4 knots the slow passage was perfect for us cruisers as we made our way east along Mljet. The expected wind increase didn't arrive until we were almost to Dubrovnik and it arrived with a vengeance. We had been drifting most of the day in 4-8 knots of wind and it had slowly increased to 8-12 knots and we found ourselves on a downwind run. Then out of nowhere, we get hit with a blast of 17 knots on our port bow. We heeled over a bit, but quickly had everything under control. I hate getting caught like that, but "Brilliant" handed it well and with a reef in the jib we were soon making 6-7 knots on a close reach in 15-23 knots of wind.

We arrived in Gruz (Dubrovnik) around 1630 with some pretty good wind still blowing in the harbor. We were lucky and found a spot in the marina and actually remembered what we were doing getting the boat easily med moored despite the cross winds.

The evening was spent chatting with the other yachties; cocktails in the cockpit; dinner aboard; then a treat with shore power- we watched an American movie on TV.

Log 33 NM

14 September 2003, Sunday, Gruz, Dubrovnik, Croatia 4239N/1805E

Laundry and boat work day! Good weather, though still cooler than we'd like.

Yesterday when we arrived the Marinaro found the Laundry man for us. Stephanie rushed to gather about 40 pounds of laundry, stuff that she has been hand washing, but that could use a really good wash. As we got everything to the stern she casually asked how much. The man calmly said, "I don't know, we charge by the item." "And how much per item?" asked Stephanie. "Oh, I charge one Euro fifty for a pair of men's pants." So the laundry was stowed below until today.

While Stephanie worked on laundry, I replaced the exhaust hose on the diesel engine. I'm glad I discovered the little salt deposit on the bottom of the hose indicating it was starting to fail. If it had, we would have had the exhaust and cooling sea water dumped directly into the engine compartment. The right size hose was found in Sibnek, but I needed shore power to install the new one. Old hoses on boats get very hard to remove unless you heat them first. The shore power let me use the electric hairdryer and it came right off.

We received in invite for cocktails at five on an English boat, "A Cappella" with Mike and Angela. They have been cruising for five years and we spent a couple of hours with them talking about everything from places we've been; to boat maintenance; and plans for the future. The normal stuff that cruisers talk about. Very nice people.

After cocktails we bought bus tickets to get to Old Town for dinner. Standing at the bus stop we realized there was no traffic on the street and more important no buses running. Seems they had blocked off the street for a religious procession. We walked a few blocks and caught our bus, just thankful we hadn't stood there waiting too long for the bus.

We had dinner at a restaurant we'd eaten at in July. It was very different this time, sitting outside with a brisk breeze blowing. We ate fast before our little fishes and kalamare risotto got cold.

Log 0 NM


15-16 September 2003, Monday-Tuesday, Gruz, Dubrovnik, Croatia 4239N/1805E

The morning was spent taking care of a few last minute chores and then checking out of Croatia. Once we cleared with Customs, Passports and the Harbor Master, Stephanie hit the grocery store and spent the last of our Kuna (Croatian money) on supplies. We said our goodbyes to Mike and Angela on "A Cappella" and departed Gruz at 1345 on a course of 208 degrees heading for Bari.

As soon as we cleared the coastal islands the wind filled in steady at 8-12 knots from the west . Our course to Bari was south southwest so we ended up close hauled and heading off course about 20 degrees south for the first couple of hours. We figured that if the wind didn't change to the north as predicted, we could always go to Brindisi.

Slowly through the afternoon and evening the wind veered and we ended up on a beam reach in 10-15 knots making good speed with fair seas. The wind change got us back on course for Bari. By the dinner time the wind had veered all the way around to our stern and we were sailing down wind. A bit later we lost our fair seas as a confused swell started building. To control the sails, I went forward and rigged the preventer to keep the boom from accidentally gybing (swinging dangerously from one side of the boat to the other). Thirty minutes later the wind veered again and I had to transfer the preventer to the port side. We really need to find a simpler way of rigging the preventer, it takes way too long to set in the dark on a rolling deck.

With the seas getting quite lumpy and now sailing on a dead run, we just couldn't keep the jib filled and ended up having to furl it. Under prevented mainsail alone we were still able to make 4-5 knots on course; we figure the wind was around 15-20 knots true. It was around 0500 with 40 miles to go that the wind gave up and, we started the engine. The forecast on Navtex had said rough seas and they were right, it was a miserable ride the rest of the way to Bari, made worse by the lack of wind to steady the boat.

We arrived at noon and found the town quay empty. It is so easy to moor when you can come in side to. We tied up, secured the boat and lay down for a nap in no time at all.

After naps, we took a stroll through the old town and had a light dinner out.

Log 109 NM


17 September 2003, Wednesday, Porto Vechiccio, Bari, Italy 4107N/1654E

A day of sightseeing and shopping in Bari and hopefully getting this log posted to the net. Tomorrow morning we plan on departing for Levkas, Greece about 230 NM south of here. It should only take two days to get there and with a favorable forecast we are looking forward to the trip.

log 0 NM

#10-03 Brilliant's Log, 22 August-7 September 2003

Hi Everyone,

Sorry this is such a long log, but we haven't had much luck with internet of late. The weather has really changed and it is beginning to feel too much like fall. As I write this I have on long pants and a polartec; it's time to move south!

Our windows of good weather are going to become shorter as the season progresses and we would like to get to our winter berth by November. We are making our plans to move quickly when the opportunity presents itself.

We have just about decided on where we are going to winter and will let people know soon.

Hope all is well with each of you.

Pete & Stephanie Peterson
s/y "Brilliant"





22 August 2003, Friday, Pula, Istria Peninsula, Croatia, 4453N/1351E

Another good cool night in Pula at anchor. We ended up sending out our Venice postcards yesterday, so for those that receive them don't be confused by the Croatian stamps on the Italian postcards. We would love to here how long it takes for them to arrive.

With no set schedule we are taking our time as we move south through the Adriatic. We decided to head for the east side of the Istrian Peninsula and selected three or four possible anchorages.

A light wind from the west and a south flowing current made for a fast passage to the southern point of Istria and the light at Kamemjak. Turning east we eased the sails and shut the engine down for a pleasant down wind sail for the last two hours of the trip.

The first anchorage looked very inviting, so at 1400 the decision was made to drop the hook. The pilot book said the bottom was sand and when we started having trouble getting the hook to set we were confused, Bruce usually does well in sand. Rather than wasting lots of time, we swapped the Bruce for our big Fortress anchor on main anchor chain and it set hard the first try.

I jumped in and checked the anchor in the clear warm 4-5 meter deep water. Ah, that's why we had problems; the bottom was a mix of rock shelves and deep sand. The fortress was set... on a rock! That's great as long as the wind doesn't change, but not good to leave it like that. Pulled it up and watching carefully for a sandy spot got it set right the next try.

The rest of the day was swimming, floating on the air mattress and once again scrubbing the bottom. It's amazing how fast the green stuff grows.


Log 21 NM


23 August 2003, Saturday, Kuje, Istria Peninsula, Croatia, 4449N/1359E

Good weather with no rush to be anywhere makes for lazy days and we've been taking advantage of it.

The wind filled in early from the north west and we had a great sail down wind to Otok Unije. It's a small island about 10 miles south of the Istria Peninsula, that gave us a choice of three very pretty and protected bays. Motoring into our first choice, we found it full of mooring balls. The Croatians are trying to make money and this seems to be one of the ways they do it. They pick a great anchorage and lay moorings and charge you for taking the mooring. Luckily the next two bays were very close and we anchored in about 10 meters of water in weed and sand.

Another day of swimming, dinghy rides and a quiet evening on the hook!

Log 21 NM


24 August 2003, Sunday,Ulva Podkujni, Otok Unije, Croatia, 4439N/1415E

A repeat of yesterday! Quiet night, with lots of dew, comfortable sleeping temperature and no wind. Departing around 1000, we found the north west wind coming up already. After an hour of motoring to charge the battery the sails came out. We lost the wind for about half an hour as we went between two islands, but once clear we had 10-15 knots of wind dead on our stern. The sails were set wing and wing (jib set to port and mainsail to starboard) and we really enjoyed the run. Watching the many other sailboats working there way north beating we decided we really like this working with the wind better.

By late afternoon when we arrived at Otok Silba, a fair swell had built up. We were very happy to find the tiny bay at Sveti (Saint) Ante uncrowded. Two try's to set the big fortress failed in the weedy bottom. With the new anchor shackle it's easy to swap out anchors on our all chain rode and we now don't hesitate to do so (thanks for the advise Colin). The 40lb Brittany does well in weed and set the first try!

Our cocktails in the cockpit were disturbed, after our cool down swim, by a young man in a small boat. He was there to collect fees for our night in the park. Once again this wasn't in the pilot book and we were annoyed. At first we were going to move rather than pay a fee, but after looking at the charts and the time decided to stay. Calling him back over we paid the 92 kunas (about $15) and he took our garbage and offered fresh water if we needed it. Poor guy just doing his job, but it would help if they published where all there parks were, we don't like these surprises.

Log 27 NM


25 August 2003, Monday, Sveti Ante, Otok Silba, Croatia, 4421N/1442E

Woke to a change in the weather. The wind had shifted to the south and we had a high overcast. Nothing on the Navtex weather forecast, but had heard on the "Cruisers Net" that a scirocco was expected later in the week. A bit uncertain of what to expect, we headed for Dugi Otok. We had found a nice anchorage at Soline on the way north and wanted to stop there again. It was a short trip and the wind was light and back on our nose, so we motored the three hours arriving early in the afternoon.

There were five other boats in the anchorage when we arrived, so we anchored farther out than we had the last time. Several more boats came in during the day pretty much filling up the small cove. The wind died after a little while and we realized our anchor was closer to another boat than we like, so moved a bit farther away.

The sun had finally come out, time for a long swim around the cove and to enjoy the rest of the afternoon. There were large thunderstorms well north and east of us, but appeared to break up long before they could threaten us. Unfortunately, our luck didn't hold and shortly before dinner the high clouds came in. By dinner time we were seeing the clouds being illuminated by lighting, but hearing no thunder weren't too concerned. Then about 2200, the thunder started! With all the forewarning we had plenty of time to get the boat prepared and when the "beast" (wind generator) roared with the first blast of wind we were ready.

The first squall hit from the west with heavy rain and 25 knot winds. We huddled under our dodger and were confident that the anchor was good. Looking around the cove we saw that at least one boat had dragged their anchor and was trying to reset 200 meters from where they were and another boat was moving. Of course it was dark with lots of lightening, why does it always have to be late at night? After a short break the wind shifted and hit us from the east. This pointed our bow out of the cove and meant that the anchor had to swing 180 degrees and reset... Bruce did great and held good. Then next blast shifted from the north, this was the wind I was concerned about because it put us on a lea shore. With thirty meters of chain out in eight meters of water and the shore only fifty meters away, there isn't much time to react if the anchor drags. We used a flashlight to see how far offshore we were and it always looks too close in the dark, but we were doing fine. As the wind went above 20 knots again, I started the engine just in case and when it was clear we were safe, secured it again.

We have a very noisy anchor alarm on the depth sounder. If the depth changes rapidly it alerts you to check your position. It added to our peace of mind.

Around midnight the wind shifted back to the east and continued to blow 15-20 knots. We took turns on the anchor watch until 0300 when the stars came out.

Thunderstorms are not one of our favorite parts of cruising.

Log 15 NM


26 August 2003, Tuesday, Soline, Dugi Otok, Croatia, 4409N/1452E

The clouds and wind greeted us in the morning, not a pretty day. After discussion and careful observation we decided that we would be all right to head south. With some hesitation we weighed anchor and poked our bow out into the Adriatic and headed south east down the west coast of Dugi Otok. The winds weren't bad at force 4-5 (12-20 knots) on the nose of course, but the seas had built up and were really slowing us down. As we motored sailed into the wind, we kept changing tacks to find the best combination of speed, VMG towards our destination, and comfort. We finally tacked well in towards the island and found some relief from the seas and after about an hour the wind shifted just enough for us to put "Brilliant" on a port tack away from the island and almost on course. The farther south we went the more the seas improved and by the time we arrived at the south end of the island the wind had died and the seas were almost calm.

The entry to Luka Telascica, the bay on the south end of Dugi Otok was wonderful. First we passed by shear cliffs dropping a hundred feet to the sea and then numerous small barren islands. As we motored north into the fjord like bay it became more like a lake. We transited through several narrow channels and it opened to a well protected bay lined with mooring balls.

A nature park, Luka Telascica provided the moorings free, but charged us 40 kunas ($6) each for the park entry fee. After last night, worrying about the storm, we could sleep well tonight tied to a mooring (I dove on the mooring to make sure it was in good condition).

The fruit and vegetable boat stopped by with their overpriced goods right after we arrived. It is really expensive, but does save a trip to town.

What a beautiful setting, unfortunately the sun never returned and our swim was a quick one as the water just seemed cool.

Log 34 NM


28 August 2003, Wednesday, Luka Telescica, Dugi Otok, Croatia, 4355N/1510E

Lovely summer morning. The bum boat came by around 0900 and we bought an expensive loaf of bread for breakfast. After coffee we slipped the mooring line and made our way out of the four mile deep bay.

Threading our way through the numerous small islands and reefs really made me appreciate the electronic c-map charts that we finally got working and the GPS. The north west wind was too light to make way with, so we motored and enjoyed the calm seas on the inside of the Dalmatian Islands. It was only the last mile and half that we finally had a good enough wind, so we did get to sail into the harbor at Hramina on the island of Murter.

After covering 412 NM, we needed to top up the diesel tanks and seeing the fuel dock open headed straight for it. 225 liters ouch; we really need more sailing! It took five times longer to fill the water tanks than the fuel, but our last water fill was Venice. We hold 559 liters of water about 147 gallons. Nice that the water was free on the fuel dock.

That chore done we moved over to the anchorage and picked our spot. With a forecast for a strong Sirocco (or Jugo as it's known in Croatia) for Friday through Sunday, Hramina will be a good place to be. Having been here before we know the holding is excellent. Also our our friends on "Morano" are still here, waiting for parts to repair their generator and can't really go cruising until it's fixed. It'll be nice spending sometime with them, though we'd hoped to have Nic show us some of his favorite places.

Log 22 NM

29 August 2003, Thursday, Hramina, Otok Murter, Croatia, 4349N/1536E

Quiet day on the hook taking care of boat chores and laundry. Then dinghy ride to shore for dinner.

Log 0 NM


30 August 2003, Friday, Hramina, Otok Murter, Croatia, 4349N/1536E

As forecast the Jugo arrived at about 0700. The warm wind came from the southeast rather that the south-southwest we had expected and slowly built through the day. With "Brilliant" secure and our larder near empty, we jumped into the dinghy and headed to the supermarket. By the time our shopping was done the wind was already up to 20 knot gusts. Thankfully it was a down wind run back to the boat so it wasn't too wet a ride.


The rest of the day was spent watching boats pour into the harbor and marina as the wind reached 30-35 knots. Quite a show as some came in under sail, charters with way too much sail. The harbor is large with depths of 5-8 meters and good holding everywhere, so there was plenty of room for everyone to find a place and not get too close to each other. The "Bruce" anchor never budged, but as we saw gusts approach 40 knots we eased out another 10 meters of chain as insurance.

Log 0 NM


30 August 2003, Saturday, Hramina, Otok Murter, Croatia, 4349N/1536E

The high winds continued until well past midnight, but by this morning had dropped to a comfortable 10-15 knots from the south.

The outboard engine for the dinghy has been stalling lately and yesterday when it quit just before we could get to "Brilliant" was the last straw. There was a big Mercury Service sign about 200 meters from where we were anchored and I was lucky that they were open Saturday morning. They gave me a ride back to "Brilliant" and spent a couple of hours trying to adjust the carburetor. I was concerned when I saw the mechanic rowing the dinghy back in from a test ride. Knowing they closed at 1300, I called to check how it was going. Not good! They sent a jet ski out to pick me up (this was embarrassing as all we do is complain about PWC's) so we could discuss the problem. It looks like the head gasket is blown, but the good news is they have the parts and promise they can have it fixed by Monday afternoon. They pulled the engine off the dinghy and we now have a rowboat.

With the wind down we rowed ashore in the afternoon and checked e-mail at the only place in town (the one you can't send more than two lines of e-mail, no slot for a floppy disk, and no word processing software). After losing several long e-mails we kind of gave up. We did appreciate all the e-mails from friends about our visit to Venice, wish you could have all been there with us.

In the evening the high temperatures continued and the wind really died down, making it an uncomfortable night for sleeping.

Log 0 NM


31 August 2003, Sunday, Hramina, Otok Murter, Croatia, 4349N/1536E

A very hot, damp, still night. We were up and off the boat by 0830 and rowed the half mile to the marina where our friends Nic and Ginette have berthed "Morano" (still waiting for generator parts). They had invited us to join them on a tour of Sibnek, Nic's hometown. They are going to winter here and had just bought a car, so it was a beautiful day for the 30 minute drive to Sibnek. We had bypassed Sibnek when we went up the river to Krka, but had wanted to get back to see it. After seeing the sights and wandering through the old town of a city built in 1000 AD we found a nice pastry shop for coffee and sweets.

A short detour to stop by Nic's brother-in-laws fields, loaded us up with fresh grapes right off the vine. Back to the marina where we all jumped in their dinghy to head out to a small island for lunch. We dragged our dinghy behind and left it and the grapes at "Brilliant" en route.

The restaurant was about a mile away and was well worth the ride. Apparently, it's open all year and the place was packed with yachties and locals. The food was out of this world and very reasonable. It was fantastic sitting under the reed shades enjoying the food and wine and the warm summer breeze, the view...with the blue and turquoise waters, the cumulus clouds drifting by and the numerous small islands out to the horizon. Life is good!

They dropped us off at "Brilliant" around 1600 and we took naps (it had been a busy day) in the cockpit. Around 1800 we started seeing thunderheads developing in the north. We watched hoping it would pass to the east, but when the first cold blast hit we knew we were in for a ride. After the warm "Jugo" we were told that the "Bura" wind follows and that's what we got. The temperature drop was very dramatic and we were hit by a few light rain showers and the winds were a steady 20-25 knots with gusts 30-35 knots. The front passed in a little over an hour and the stars came out, but the wind continued from the northeast. With "Brilliant" now on a lea shore (the wind was now pushing us towards a rocky breakwater only 100 yards away), we decided, even though "Bruce" was holding well, that we would sleep better if we put out a second anchor.

It was funny that just as the storm hit we had been running the engine to charge batteries. I hate to run the diesel engine at idle to charge batteries, but after four days and with much less daylight the solar panels just couldn't keep up. What was funny was that with the wind back up, the beast is now giving us all the power we need and we could have skipped running the engine.

Log 0 NM


1 September 2003, Monday, Hramina, Otok Murter, Croatia, 4349N/1536E

ARRRGGH! September already, I hate to think of summer passing. Woke to much cooler temperatures (we needed a blanket last night) and the winds still 15-20 knots from the northeast.

By 1000 I called the Mercury Outboard mechanic and knew it was trouble when he said he couldn't tell me on the phone what the problem was. The wind had died down so I rowed ashore to learn the whole story. Seems a lower seal had blown, that allowed sea water into the crankshaft and cylinders, not good. Bad bearings and scored cylinders and damaged crankshaft. Decision time... 500 euros will get it running without a new crankshaft, but no guarantee; another 500 euros buys the new crankshaft. They offered to take the old engine in trade on a new one and that made the decision for us. A thousand buck to repair a 13 year old engine just didn't make sense. The price for a new engine is very close to what we would have paid in the states and it will be here on Wednesday. The dinghy is really a critical piece of equipment for cruisers. It allows us to anchor out and save on marina fees. It also provides entertainment and a chance to explore where "Brilliant" can't go. It will be great to have a reliable engine again, but it is tough on the cruising kitty.

With this wind we are kind of stuck on the boat today without an engine, but there is always something to keep busy with aboard and we spent the afternoon working boat projects.

Log 0 NM



2-3 September 2003, Tuesday-Wednesday, Hramina, Otok Murter, Croatia, 4349N/1536E

The wind has continued to blow 15-20 knots with gust to 25-30 knots. Though it really wasn't necessary, we put out the second anchor again. It does let us sleep better with one less thing to worry about.

We made it ashore on Tuesday for a quick stop at the internet and for some groceries, but the row back to the boat was no fun. The temperature drop has been amazing from high 90's a few days ago to the mid 60's, brrrrrr! We are ready to move south, this is ridiculous for September.

Hopefully the new outboard motor will be here tonight from Austria as promised, then tomorrow our friend Nic will take us to Sibnek by car on Thursday to get our VAT tax refund at the customs office. As a transiting yacht we are exempt from the 22 percent VAT, it usually isn't worth the effort unless it's a major purchase.

The forecast is for better weather Saturday and Sunday and we hope to be underway by then. I will say the wind generator has loved this wind and is keeping our batteries charged.

Log 0 NM



4 September 2003, Thursday, Hramina, Otok Murter, Croatia, 4349N/1536E

The new outboard did arrive on time and we are very happy to have transportation again.

The plan for the day, since we had a dinghy again, was to meet up with Nic and Ginette drive to Sibnek, visit customs, some chandleries, do some sightseeing then a nice lunch. The wind was still blowing at 15-20 knots as we left "Brilliant", so we put on our foul weather gear for the short dinghy ride to the marina. We still ended up soaked.

Except for the problem of customs not stamping the paperwork because we weren't actually leaving the country yet, we had a great day. Breakfast at a pastry shop, shopping for boat stuff where we found almost everything we needed and even a few things we didn't know we needed, then a nice drive to the town of Primosten. Primosten is very pretty village, where we had a wonderful lunch on the waterfront.

Log 0 NM



5 September 2003, Friday, Hramina, Otok Murter, Croatia, 4349N/1536E

Woke in the night because it was so quiet. The beast had stopped and the seas were calm. A beautiful morning greeted us as we enjoyed our morning coffee. A quick trip to shore to talk to the dealer about our VAT refund (I will mail them the form from Dubrovnik when we actually checkout and they will transfer the money to our bank) and to pick up a few things at the supermarket. Then over to say goodbye to Nic and Ginette. Unfortunately, they are still waiting for their generator to be repaired and we'll miss the chance to do any cruising with them this year.

At 1100 we were underway and after an hour of motoring to charge the batteries we shut the engine down, set sails and relaxed to the sounds of sailing. We had been in Hramina way too long and even though we were only making 2-3 knots of speed in the light wind, we were determined to be sailing again! The wind slowly filled in and we found ourselves enjoying a fabulous beam reach to Rogoznica. We covered the 34 NM in six hours with all but the first hour undersail. It is hard to describe the joy of actually having the wind working for you and even the seas that built by afternoon were on our stern quarter and not a problem. We felt for all the boats that were heading north and pounding into it.

We dropped anchor in the same cove we stayed in on the way north and will spend a bit more time in the town tomorrow then we did last time we were here.

Log 34 NM


6 September 2003, Friday, Rogoznica, Mainland, Croatia, 4332N/1558E

Cool quiet evening on the hook. Long dinghy ride to town and a short walk was all we needed to see the village of Rogoznica. Amazing to see how few tourist remain.

Underway by 1100, we were again determined to sail. With 4-8 knots of wind and calm seas we very slowly made our way to Trogir. It is so nice to be able to kick back and not worry about racing to get places.

By 1700 we were moored side too (very rare in the Med) under the medieval city walls on the town quay. The price is 120 kunas for the boat with water and electric and 40 Kunas per person tourist tax per night, about $30. This isn't bad since the ACI marina just across from us charges much more.

It has been a while since we have been on a town quay and have had to deal with the zoo syndrome. That's where the evening strollers stop and stare at you as they walk by. But we do enjoy the folks that stop to chat about America or to ask questions about cruising.

After dinner we walked through the old town, to take a peek and to have an ice cream. Tomorrow we will do the real exploring of the Castle, the narrow alleys and the little squares of the town built in the 15th century.

Log 20 NM

7 September 2003, Sunday, Trogir, Croatia, 4338N/1614E

Trogir is a very small island and it didn't take us long to see the highlights. We really enjoyed the castle and again the medieval buildings and the narrow alleyways. The rest of our day was spent just enjoying the passing scene from our cockpit on a beautiful day.

Log 0 NM

#9-03 Brilliant's Log, 13-21 August 2003

Hi Everyone,

Venice has been fantastic, the city, the sights, the food, everything. As much as we have enjoyed it, this is August and we need to start heading south and then figure out where we will spend our winter.

We are now back in Croatia and were supposed to catch up with our friends on "Morano", but they are still having problems with their generator. We have decided to work our way slowly down the Dalmatian Coast and hit many of the spots we missed on our rush to Venice. It is time to get back into the cruising mode again.

Happy Birthday to our son Devon on 25th his 29th and to our niece Andrea' on the 27th. Hope you both have a great day.

Pete & Stephanie Peterson
s/y "Brilliant"




13 August 2003, Wednesday, Vrsar, Mainland, Croatia, 4509N/1337E

It was surprisingly comfortable in Vrsar. We noticed a cool sea breeze from the south west after we had secured the boat and it held through the evening and night. Our berth was on what was the old town quay and even though we used our own anchor the marinaro (dock boy) was there to catch our lines and let us know we would have to check in. The only advantage was that since we used our own anchor they gave us thirty percent discount.

Pretty town that was completely overrun by Europeans on holiday. Off our stern was a little Gelataria (ice cream) shop and it was absolutely amazing how busy this place stayed. Unfortunately, with power and water available we needed to take care of some mundane boat chores - laundry; washing the boat; cleaning below- and didn't really have a chance to explore the town, next time.

We had a great dinner aboard and watched the evening procession of people walking around the harbor, one of our favorite pastimes. There was a promotion for Jaegermeister (booze) that included a DJ and lot's of very loud techno music. Thankfully, they shut down soon after midnight.

Underway for Venice, we cleared the harbor the approach hazards by 0615 and set the auto pilot for a 286 degree course. A light wind filled in a bit later and while not enough to sail on, the angle was perfect and we were able to pull back on the throttle while still making 6.5 knots. We lost the wind for about two hours in the middle of the crossing and then it filled in again on the opposite tack for the last few hours.

In the distance we saw a sailboat that appeared to be heading for Venice as well and we slowly closed the gap as the day wore on. Even though we're cruisers who eschew the race scene, anytime there are two sailboats going in the same direction it hard not to tweak the sails for that extra tenth of a knot.

As we arrived at Porto di Lido (one of three places to enter the Venice lagoon) we caught up with the other boat as we both battled the outgoing tidal current and confused seas from the opposing wind. They turned towards the St. Elena yacht club where we planned on staying, while we continued on to the Grand Canal.

It was a crazy thing to do with so much traffic on the canal; water taxis, vaporetti (water buses), big ferries and lots of little water craft of all kinds coming at us from all directions. The ability to approach the Grand Canal and Piazza San Marco , and view these sights from the deck of "Brilliant" was an opportunity too good to pass up, and made it well worth the detour.

That out of our system, we returned to the yacht club hoping for a berth. Coming through the entry to the yacht club we realized that suddenly the boat seemed very big! With little room to maneuver, I was glad someone from the yacht club came out in a dinghy. He led the way to a slip and was signaling us in as I watched the depth rapidly decrease to less than 2 meters, with white knuckles I inched ahead. The slip was the old style with two posts outboard of the dock. So instead of picking up a line or laying your anchor, you simply tied to lines to the posts and they keep you off the dock. It's a good arrangement and is very typical of what you find in the states. The challenge was turning the boat into to slip. With just a little goosing, I was able to get it pointed towards the dock. Then the next challenge, the poles were 4 meters apart, "Brilliant" is 4.05 meters wide.... hmmmmm. Now .05 meters is only two inches, just a bit more throttle and we were in and set. We'll worry about leaving in a week.

We met Fred and Sue from "Monabar", the English couple we were chasing across the Adriatic earlier. Then another cruising boat "Mindamoya" with Doug and Sara aboard came in. They have the same size boat and we enjoyed watching as they worked their way into a slip as we sipped our cocktails.

It is oppressively hot and humid and we wilted in the cockpit for the rest of the afternoon. As the sunset we went in search of a restaurant and had a great Italian meal for about 40 Euros. I really like Italian food.

Log 55 NM


14-19 August 2003, Thursday, Veneiza (Venice), Italy, 4525N/1221E

Our first day we slept in and were just starting our coffee at 0900, so we missed the opportunity to join the other cruisers as they started touring the city. We were, however, off the boat and on our way before 1000!

We walked the mile or so to Piazza St. Mark and were astonished by the crowds of tourist. The line to get into the Basilica was from the front door almost to the river, probably 300 yards long. Looking at that line, we decided to start by sitting down at the world famous Florian Cafe for cappuccino and croissants. A bit pricey, but the view was fantastic and when the cafe's live classical ensemble struck up a Mozart concerto we knew it was worth every penny.

It came to us that Venice is not as much about seeing specific sights as to absorbing the city. We wandered through the alleys and crossed canals for hours and at every turn were amazed by the beauty of the city. The gondolas maneuvering through the maze of canals, some with an accordion player on board, or with an occasional gondolier singing out Italian ballads. competing with the working boats delivering goods (no cars in the city), all add to our fascination with the place. Everywhere we turned we would see the winged Lion of St. Mark the symbol of the city. It was the same lion we had seen throughout Greece, Turkey, and Croatia a reminder of what a power Venice was in 12th-14th centuries.

After lunch we made our way back to St. Mark's and found a much shorter line. It is an impressive church filled with golden mosaics inside and out. The floor mosaics were some of the most impressive we have seen anywhere. Church's claim to fame is that they have the earthly remains of St. Mark the apostle and a pretty good tale about how the remains were brought to Venice.

Leaving the church we were greeted with a darkening sky, and thunder and lighting coming our way. It was a race to see if we could get back to the marina before the rain hit. It was close, but we managed to get all the windows closed before the storm arrived. A lovely shower and light show when you're safe in a marina and it cooled everything down nicely.

Log 0 NM


15-19 August 2003, Friday-Wednesday, Veneiza (Venice), Italy, 4525N/1221E

The rest of our week in Venice has been wonderful, though the heat and humidity have continued to be rather oppressive. We have tried to see as much of the city and the "must see" sights as possible. The museums and art galleries were also fantastic. The Vaparetto (water buses) made it very easy to get around the town and we had purchased multi-day passes for unlimited use... and we did. Up and down the Grand Canal and all about the city. Maps are very little help with so many alleys and canals, so we spent a good bit of our time zigzagging our way to one destination or the next. If we got lost, eventually we'd run into either the Grand Canal or we could always find the churches on the map and would start over. It was fun, but was exhausting in the heat.

Another American boat came in during our stay, "Rhythms" with Terry and Caroline from Detroit, Michigan. We had seen them in Srkadin, but hadn't had the chance to talk with them there. During the day all the crews went their own way sightseeing, but in the evening we have gathered for dinner on several occasions to compare notes and talk cruising.

Log 0 NM

20 August 2003, Thursday, Veneiza (Venice), Italy, 4525N/1221E

We departed Venice early and met the sun and several large cruise ships at the narrow channel at Porto Lido that exits the Venice lagoon. A 15-20 knot breeze and a rambunctious sea gave us quite a start for a long day to Croatia. Unbelievably the wind was not directly on the bow and with a single reef in the jib we averaged well over six knots speed for the first five hours. The short 1-2 meter high seas gave us a good ride and really checked how well we had secured the boat below (we won't go into that any further.) Slowly the seas calmed and the wind decreased and shifted to our stern. It had been a good sail but with an already long day we cranked up the engine and motored the rest of the way to Pula.

Pula is a large shipbuilding town and we had no trouble finding a good place to anchor in the harbor. After the long day we just had a quiet diner aboard (no pasta tonight) and an early bed.

Log 75 NM


21 August 2003, Friday, Pula, Mainland, Croatia, 4453N/1351E

An easy day of sightseeing in Pula. Visited the Roman Arena that we can see from "Brilliant". One of the best preserved, it was built in the 1st century and could seat 25,000 for the gladiators, wild animals, christians, and other ancient entertainment. We also saw a near perfect Roman mosaic floor.

We considered departing this afternoon, we really need someplace to swim and this isn't the cleanest harbor we have seen, but decided to stay another day.

Log 0 NM