Torquay, Australia

3-7 DECEMBER 2011
GEELONG AND NACHOS

On Saturday evening, 3 December, Peter met us at the airport in Melbourne and drove us to his home in Torquay (tor-KEY), a pleasant little beach town on the Surf Coast in southeastern Victoria bordering the Bass Strait on the southern coast of Australia. Unassuming though it may be, Peter informed us, Torquay is the birthplace of two of the most famous surfwear companies in the world. (Peter himself is a surfer and has any number of boards to prove it.)

On the way to Torquay we stopped in Geelong (tzsheh-LONG) where Peter hoped to take us to the yacht club. (Peter is a member of the Sandringham Yacht Club and so has reciprocal privileges at many other yacht clubs.) Unfortunately, they were hosting a private event that evening and so were closed to visitors. But at least we learned how to pronounce the name of the town, which I had heretofore called GEE-long.

And so we headed on to Torquay where we stopped to buy a few bottles of wine (I especially liked the Yalumba Shiraz) on the way home. And what a charming home it is! Peter's house is an early 20th C wooden beach cottage, small and spare but clean and attractive with a most welcoming guest room, situated in a pleasant residential neighborhood and boasting a large, grassy backyard with, of course, the mandatory barbecue grill.

On this night, however, we skipped the barbecue and gathered in the cozy kitchen where Peter whipped up some hot and delicious nachos. After catching up with Peter around the table for an hour or so we trundled off to bed and sweet dreams under a beach-themed bed cover. And, since it was still quite cold, an electric blanket as well.

IN SEARCH OF KOALAS AND KANGAROOS

Of course, being first-timers in Australia, Jim and I were anxious to see some of its famous exotic wildlife, and so on Sunday Peter, being the most gracious host that he is, set out to find it for us. We began by heading down the Great Ocean Road, the east end of which lies right there at Torquay. This route is quite scenic, offering many great views of the ocean and historic little towns along the way.

At Anglesea we stopped at the Anglesea Golf Course in hopes of seeing some kangaroos, but no luck. We had to be happy with a beer in the clubhouse instead. Then on to Lorne and its historic hotel where we stopped in at the Lorne Hotel Pub for a drink and then the seafood market to pick up something for dinner. Next came Wye River and its Wye River Hotel Pub where we once again quenched our thirst before reaching Kennett River Holiday Park in Kennett River.

Here is where Peter expected us to find koalas. Unfortunately, there were not many of the cuddly-looking creatures about on this day. We only spotted a couple sleeping high up in a eucalyptus tree. Sadly, many of the trees were now devoid of all leaves, presumably because the koalas were busy eating themselves out of house and home, not to mention their food supply.

But despite its seeming lack of koalas, the park did not lack for interesting wildlife, especially of the winged variety. We saw plenty of sulphur-crested cockatoos and crimson rosella parrots. The rosellas were not the least bit shy. In fact, one even landed on Jim's shoulder before hopping up to his head!

In Torquay once again, we stopped at Growlers, one of Peter's favorite watering holes, for a drink. Growlers is a funky and convivial beach town restaurant with inviting outdoor seating, but we sat inside on this chilly evening due to the cold.

Back at Peter's the menfolk lit the barbecue grill in the backyard, and we dined on scallops, shrimp, boarfish, and oysters with bread and dukkah (mixed spices) with olive oil, salad, and wine. YUM! (Have I mentioned that the Aussies know how to eat?)

TWO OCEANS, TWELVE APOSTLES, AND KOALAS GALORE

Monday we set out on the Great Ocean Road again, this time traveling all the way from Torquay to Port Campbell, a distance of about 200 km (approximately 120 miles). We drove through Bells Beach, which hosts the Rip Curl Pro, the longest continuously run (50 years in 2011) annual surfing contest in the world, and on to Kennett River Holiday Park again. This time we did see a number of koalas, but they were shy and up high and more difficult to see than I would have liked.

Next we stopped at Apollo Bay for drinks and a walk by the sea, then it was onward all the way to the Cape Otway Lightstation. On the way to the lighthouse we drove through the Cape Otway National Park, and there, to our delight, we finally found our koalas - LOTS of them. Up in the trees, of course, either sleeping, munching on eucalyptus leaves, or moving languidly up the branch to the next batch of leaves.

Peter parked the car and we all got out and stood on the road along with other onlookers to gaze up at these furry creatures. Once outside the car, we could hear loud, startling roars and realized that they were coming from those adorable little "teddy bears." These sounds did not sound like anything that should be coming from the throats of such cuddly-looking creatures, but Peter warned us that they are indeed wild animals and have a sharp claw in their wrists that can rip you open. Wow. Who knew?

While we were pondering this new and somewhat frightening information as we studied these amazing animals above us, one of them stretched out spread-eagle fashion, face down, between two branches and let loose a long, hard pee that barely missed hitting Peter on the head. This veritable waterfall made its own loud noise as it bounced off the pavement and lasted about 30 seconds. WOW! How could such a small critter who eats only leaves and drinks no water accomplish such an astounding feat? He must have been saving that up for a month!

Having decided that the koalas were probably ready for us to leave, we drove on to the lighthouse area and, for $17.50 a piece, took a do-it-yourself tour of the grounds, which includes the Head Lightkeeper's House, the Telegraph Station, and an Aboriginal Cultural Site.

The Head Lightkeeper's House was built in 1857 of green sandstone from a nearby quarry. It is now rentable as a getaway cottage featuring four double bedrooms, open fireplaces, and stunning views.

The Telegraph Station was built in 1859 to house Australia's first submarine telegraph cable, which linked Tasmania to the mainland. When the cable failed later in the same century, the building became a signal station, signaling passing ships and telegraphing the details to Melbourne.

Cape Otway, like most of the Victorian coastline, has been a habitat for Australia's indigenous people for thousands of years. Even today, such places are culturally and spiritually important to Aboriginal people, prompting the cultural heritage protection of these sites within the Lightstation Precinct.

A café is located in the Assistant Lightkeepers' Residence, which was built in 1858 to house two assistant lightkeepers and their families. Today Cape Otway is still an important reference station for the Australian Bureau of Meteorology, and a modern-day weather station is located in this same building.

At the base of a flagstaff lies a large red anchor from the ship Eric the Red, which struck the Otway Reef in a heavy fog in 1880 while traveling from America laden with exhibits for the Melbourne Exhibition. Four people lost their lives in the wreck.

The first casualty of World War II for the USA occurred when the US steamship City of Rayville was sunk by a German mine off Cape Otway in November of 1940. Following this event, a radar station was built at Cape Otway in 1942, and that radar bunker still exists on the property.

Also on the grounds is a plaque commemorating the mysterious disappearance of 20-year-old pilot Frederick Valentich whose small plane vanished over the Bass Strait while flying from Melbourne to King Island on 21 October 1978. Many who have read the transcript of Fredericks's last words with the Melbourne Flight Service believe this story to be Australia's most credible UFO mystery.

Of course, the Cape Otway Lighthouse is the focal point of the park. It was built in 1848 in response to the large number of ships (at least 18) that had wrecked in the narrow gap between Cape Otway and King Island, a distance of less than 90 km (54 miles). When the convict ship Neva foundered off King Island in 1835, almost 250 lives were lost. And in an 1845 shipping disaster, 399 immigrants died when the Cataraqui was wrecked off King Island.

The lighthouse was built on the cape's southern point at the juncture of the Bass Strait, that finger of the Pacific that separates the Australian mainland from Tasmania, and the Southern Ocean. The light was originally fuelled by whale oil, then kerosene and later electricity. It shone 48 km (29 miles) out to sea. In 1994 the old light was decommissioned and replaced with a nearby solar-powered automatic beacon.

And yes, we did climb to the top of the lighthouse and go outside on the narrow metal platform to view that almost mythical line where the two massive bodies of water meet. It was very windy out there on that platform, and the water below looked chillingly rough and cold. But now we can say that we have seen the Atlantic, the Pacific, AND the Southern oceans. Only two more to go!

We saw a few more koalas on our way out of the park, then continued westward on the Great Ocean Road, which veered northward away from the coast into a more countrylike setting. At the pinnacle of this northward trend lies Lavers Hill where we stopped at a roadhouse seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Actually, except for the fact that there were no saguaros in the background, this dusty, rusty, no- hexagonal-glass-jar-full-of-vodka-and-lemons-here bar could have been in southern Arizona. Just like home.

Next on our sightseeing tour were the Twelve Apostles in Port Campbell National Park. The "icon of the Great Ocean Road," these magnificent limestone stacks are 45 meters (147 feet) tall. They loom just offshore in an elegant gathering of natural grace. Truly awe inspiring.

Not far west of the Twelve Apostles on the Great Ocean Road was the final destination of our day's excursion, Port Campbell. Here we watched the sunset at a beach bar by the sea and then walked up to the Craypot for a seafood dinner.

From Port Campbell we took the inland route back to Torquay - not nearly as scenic as the Great Ocean Road but much faster. Besides, it was dark now anyway.

GOLFING WITH THE ROOS

Peter had set up a tee time for Jim and him to play golf at Anglesea Golf Course on Tuesday, so off we went that morning in great anticipation of not only enjoying a lovely day on the course but also, we hoped, seeing some kangaroos. Suddenly, in the midst of this pleasant glow on a straight stretch of highway with little traffic, a policeman pulled Peter over to the side of the road.

What on earth? I wondered. Peter is a careful driver and was not speeding. Peter, however, did not seem surprised. He and the pleasant young policeman exchanged greetings, and then the policeman had Peter blow into a breathalyzer. "Do you catch many drunks on the road at 11:00 a.m. on a Tuesday?" Jim asked the officer. "You'd be surprised," he said with a smile before sending us on our way.

Peter, who was quite blasé about the entire affair, informed us that if you drive in Australia you can expect to be pulled over at any time and required to take a breathalyzer test. If you blow .05 or higher, you must relinquish your license on the spot and find some other way home. Now we know why Australia had to develop such extensive public transportation systems!

After this unexpected little interlude, we made our way uneventfully to the golf course. We rented one golf cart, and the boys let me drive (brave souls that they are!) while they walked. It was all very lovely, and the guys were having fun, but I was anxious to see some kangaroos. And then, there they were! Dozens of them, lying under the trees on the side of the course and occasionally hopping from one tree to another.

These were greys, which unlike the big reds of the Outback, are only about four feet tall. That, however, does not mean they are harmless. Like the koala, the kangaroo, Peter warned us, also has a sharp claw with which it can easily eviscerate a human. And so I took lots of photos - from a distance. I did, however, get within a few feet of a mama roo with a Joey in her pouch. (Shades of Kanga and Roo in the Hundred Acre Woods. I kept expecting Piglet and Pooh to turn up any minute.)

We were surprised to learn that, despite their undomesticated nature, the roos on the golf course were adorned with leather collars. This lets the golf course personnel know which roos belong there as they have to be "culled" now and then. (I don't even want to think about exactly what that means.)

Anyway, while getting close enough to the trees to take photos of the roos, I found a leather collar on the ground, complete with a name in large black letters and a bit of kangaroo hair. So! At least one of these fascinating creatures had escaped from this unwanted necklace. Good on him, I say! (Unless, of course, it resulted in his being "culled.") We know next to nothing of his history and even less of his fate, but we shall always remember the undying spirit of "Vlad," the roo who would be free.

After Jim and Peter finished their nine holes of golf, we returned to Torquay where we sat outside with cold drinks at Growlers. Now ready for lunch, our gracious host bought us chunky beef pies from a local patisserie, then took us down to a little park where we ate at a picnic table overlooking the Bass Strait.

The pies tasted good, but a short time later, right after we got back to Peter's, Jim became quite ill. At first he suspected food poisoning, even though Peter and I were fine, but we eventually figured out it was a stomach virus. Poor Jim! What an unhappy ending to an otherwise most enjoyable day.

As for our overall Torquay visit, what can we say? FANTASTIC! Thank you, Peter!