All the cruisers take the hike to Boo Boo Hill. It has a panoramic view of the anchorage which is a curving sliver of deeper blue water between the sand banks. It is a tradition to leave the name of one's boat carved or painted on a piece of driftwood. There is quite a pile on top.

Within a couple hundred yards of our mooring, there are three dinghy moorings next to small coral heads. The impact of a protected area shows dramatically. Each head was packed with fish and fry of all sizes. On one, a giant Nassau grouper ruled the roost like The Godfather. Under Emerald Rock itself, Alex found a huge lobster. A few yards away his harem (or his progeny?), just hanging out on their porch, almost like they know they are safe.