The Costa da Morte (that's the coast of death for us gringos) gave me pause when I first read about it in our pilot guide. It's the section of coast from Ria Muros in the south around Cabo Finisterre to A Coruna in the north east. Certainly Cabo Finisterre needs no introduction, but the neighborhood around it is no walk in the park either. We've read accounts of tremendous (and contrary) winds, mountainous seas and thick fog. Mix in a particularly rocky coastline and the legend was cemented in Mariners' lore from the very beginning. Fortunately, we have the benefit of technology, but that eases our pucker factor only slightly. Obviously, you need to pick your weather for transiting this section of coast and rounding the Cape.

We experienced firsthand the effect large headlands have on the weather when we rounded Cabo Ortegal northeast of A Coruna. More dramatic than most any headland, Cabo Ortegal looms on the horizon far, far away. The day we approached from the east, the sea was placid and flat. In fact, we were motoring as there was no wind! The day up to that point was a frustrating series of hoisting sails and trying to sail our course mixed with motoring and doused canvas. As soon as we rounded the Cape, just nine miles from our destination of Ria Cedeira, the wind piped-up in a big way with 35 knots at our stern. This all took place in a space of perhaps 1/4 mile! We made it in without incident, but with a newfound (and healthy) dose of respect ...

We lay at anchor off the pretty town of Corme, just 40 miles northeast of Cabo Finisterre, poised for tackling the Costa da Morte. The weather forecast is promising with a predicted breeze of 15 knots on our stern quarter. With our prior experience rounding big capes fresh in our mind, we set off and fortunately had a wonderful, drama-free day sailing around the feared Cape. As if on cue, as soon as we rounded the wind promptly died and we had to motor the remaining 15 miles or so to Ria Muros. Point taken: be prepared for anything when rounding big capes.