Our brief chats with the American pilgrims in Ribadesella just whetted our appetite even more to visit their (and countless others) sacred destination. We got our chance when visiting the most northerly of the large Rias Baixas - Ria de Muros y Noia. Santiago de Compostela, or simply Santiago, is a 45 minute bus ride from the marina in Portosin, the closest port Déjà Vu could access. The object of all the interest is the holy remains of St. James the Apostle buried beneath the church. By the 11th century, the pilgrimage along the Camino de Santiago was well established. In time, a city built up around the church and today Santiago is home to about 80,000 people. But it's the old church we came to see - us and scores of tourists and pilgrims alike that day.


Tourism is a major industry in Santiago, but it's the seductively festive atmosphere when nearing the church that draws you in. The day we were there a group of perhaps 50 high school age kids celebrated their arrival en masse with loud chants, lots of high-fives and hugs of relief and joy. In addition, we saw many family groups of parents and teen age kids along with literally hundreds of other Trekkers arriving from far and wide along the Camino. Some looked trail weary and a bit scruffy, others seemed as if they were out for a little jaunt around the block. Almost universally, they each had a sea shell hanging from their backpack - the symbol of the Camino de Santiago. The mood around the large plaza do Obradoiro at the foot of the steps to the church was a heady mixture of quiet achievement, obvious fatigue and fun. Many of the pilgrims chose to kneel and pray right there; afterwards falling to a heap next to their pack on the cobbles. You can't help but feel at least some of their accomplishment.


The magnificent old church certainly grabs your attention with its soaring archways, elaborate porticos and a massive Botafumero (smoke spitter or incense burner) hanging from the ceiling at the centre of the cathedral. We were told theBotafumero is used only on certain religious holidays or, if have the cash, €300 will get the bishops to give it a whirl in your honor. Capitalism, don't you love it! Even if you have no religious inclination, the level of detail in the construction of the church is mind boggling. Most of the artwork on the walls and ceilings is not paint, but small chips of different colored stone arranged to create what the artist envisioned. There had to be thousands of colored stone chips in just one such rendition. Inside, the Portico de la Gloria dominates with its large and very lifelike sculptures. Of note is the figure of Queen Esther who, apparently was more well endowed before a disapproving bishop felt her breasts should be smaller. The locals thought Esther's figure was just fine, so in protest they created the cone-shape Tetilla (nipple) cheese seen everywhere in the stores. Being the curious tourists we are, we had to try this most unusual of cheeses. I have to report that it was soft with a creamy texture ...