Cheval

25 April 2016 | Buena Vista Cay, Ragged Islands
16 April 2016 | Puerto Vita, CUBA
15 April 2016 | Banes (Cuba)
14 April 2016 | Cuba (ORIENTE )
13 April 2016 | Holguin (Cuba)
12 April 2016 | Holguin (Cuba)
11 April 2016 | Guardalavaca (Cuba)
10 April 2016 | Puerto de Vita, Cuba
09 April 2016 | Puerto de Vita, Cuba
08 April 2016 | Puerto Vita, CUBA
25 March 2016 | Georgetown, Great Exuma
23 March 2016 | Georgetown, Great Exuma
22 March 2016 | Georgetown, Great Exuma
21 March 2016 | Georgetown, Great Exuma
20 March 2016 | Georgetown, Great Exuma
19 March 2016 | Calabash Bay (Long Island)
18 March 2016 | Calabash Bay (Long Island)
13 March 2016

Buena Vista (Jumentos). An unusual encounter on Buena Vista Cay

25 April 2016 | Buena Vista Cay, Ragged Islands
Nathalie
On our way back from Cuba, we headed first for Hog Cay and Duncan town where we were able to hook up with free Wi-Fi and update everybody of our return in the Bahamas. A North East wind kept us in this very comfortable anchorage for the next three days. Finally, we were able to progress little by little to Raccoon Cay, then Buena Vista Cay where we met a very interesting gentleman called Edward. He has been in the process of planning/ building a house for the last 8 years, have settled on the island for a while now and is raising chicken, ducks and peacocks. He is not a young guy but still have numerous and vivid dreams that he is still trying to accomplish, among them, building a small resort on this island that his family owned. Buena Vista is beautiful with a very long sandy beach on the bank side and a rocky ocean shore. Plenty of goats roamed on the island, as in Raccoon Cay. The anchorage was comfortable, a little rolly in the North east wind (that came back again!!!), and we managed to have a successful snorkeling hunting trip. We chatted with Edward in the evening, on the beach with cold beers. He definitely is very interesting, have experienced a bit of up and down in his life and is full of stories (about Duncan Town, his family-especially his grandmother-) which I will not unveil here so you can enjoy Edward’s visit. Finally, a very strong east wind came back and it was time to go again, we chose the ocean route (a little sportive, I have to say!) and came back in south of water cay, continuing to Hog’s cay cut that we reach about 3pm. We had to wait a bit for the tide to get higher and we passed it at 7pm to arrive in Georgetown at 10pm. (by now, we are pretty comfortable with entering the pass at night).

Voyage a Cuba (pour les Francais )

16 April 2016 | Puerto Vita, CUBA
Nathalie
Je voudrais attirer l'attention sur le fait que je ne suis ni une economiste, ni une politicienne, ni une historienne, donc cet article n'est que le recueil de mes observations recueillies lors d'un tres court sejour de 6 jours a Cuba. De nos jours, il faut toujours etre politiquement correct, en France ou aux USA, donc voila pour les divulgations officielles.
Nous attendions de pouvoir aller a Cuba et en tant qu'Americains, les formalites pour un permis de sejour court etant devenues beaucoup plus simples, ces derniers mois, nous l'avons obtenu sans probleme. Du sud des Bahamas (Duncan Town), les cotes de Cuba sont a 65 miles donc un voyage d'une nuit pour nous. Il n'y a que quelques ports d'entree et celui le plus proche est Puerto de Vita qui se situe sur la cote nord -est de Cuba. Nous savions que Havana etant a l'ouest de cette grande ile (la plus grande des Caraibes) , nous ne pourrions pas tout voir, mais ,pour une premiere fois , nous voulions observer et reporter nos impressions sur la vie cubaine en general donc cette destination nous semblait appropriee. Les formalites douannieres sont longues mais les agents sont tous tres polis et aimables. Le docteur, en particulier, qui prend la temperature de toute personnes a bord, avant de laisser le bateau acceder a la marina, était tres sympatique et apres les questions legales , a discute avec nous pendant quelques temps de la Floride, du baseball, etc... , il voit beaucoup plus d'Europeens et Canadiens que d'Americains bien sur. Apres les douanes, l'immigration, l'agent de l'agriculture et le chien " sniffeur " a bord, nous etions prets a sortir de la marina et voir....Cuba. Notre premiere sortie a été en Taxi, et alors quel reve ! : Oui, il y a bien des voitures des annees 50, rutilantes et magnifiques un peu de partout, partageant la route avec des chars tires par des chevaux ou des bœufs, des velos, des camions et des bus, tout cela sur des routes a deux voies ce qui rend la conduite tres sportive avec beaucoup de changement de vitesse !!!! Les Cubains ont ,des moyens de locomotion pour la plupart ,encore tres rudimentaires mais ils sont habilles comme a Miami, j'ai été tres surprise de voir de jeunes gens sortir de maison extremement modestes (pas de fenetres, donc bonjour la poussiere venant de la route, juste des volets en bois ouvres) habilles de facon aussi moderne et impeccable comme si ils se promenaient dans un grand centre commercial de Miami!!! La monnaie a Cuba est le National peso mais il existe une economie a deux vitesses, je m'explique : Le CUC (Covertible CUban Peso) se change a 1 CUC pour approximativement 0.90 euro et est officiellement la seule monnaie utilisable par les touristes donc louer une voiture, payer la marina, tout se fait en CUC. Il est possible d'echanger des CUC pour des nacional pesos (impossible dans un hotel mais dans une petite banque au village de San Lucia) et, de ce fait, acheter les fruits et legumes sur le marche local. L'echange est de 1 CUC pour 25 Nacional Pesos. En fait, nous avons eu beaucoup plus d'echanges et de conversations avec des Cubains que j'avais imagine (vu mon espagnol extremement precaire et le fait que je pensais qu'ils etaient beaucoup plus anxieux a l'idee d'exprimer leur point de vue sur leur pays.) Cuba est une ile magnifique, entre les montagnes de l'Oriente , Havana et la vallee de Vinales a l'Ouest, les iles du sud (Iles des jardin de la reine), et les plages tout autour, c'est vraiment splendide : Cuba est tres peuple (11 millions d'habitants) et sur le moindre petit lopin de terre sur la route de Guardalavaca a Banes (qui restera la plus bucolique de notre voyage) pousse des bananiers, des papayers, des manguiers. Tout le long de la route, on peut acheter des fruits et legumes a de petits estancos, bien sur, le prix change des que les gringos arrivent mais il est possible de se nourrir pour pas trop cher (surtout si vous etes vegetariens !). A part un sejour en Yougoslavie en 1982 (Tito), je n'avais jamais voyage dans un pays communiste, c'est tres etonnant car il y a enormement de regles et les cubains contournent beaucoup d'entre elles. Pour le touriste (en excluant le touriste qui reste dans un hotel tout inclus ou il n'y a aucun probleme puisque tout le personnel parle anglais et il n'y a aucune interaction avec la population), l'aspect contradictoire peut etre un peu deconcertant ?
Par example, le marche noir est un marche secondaire que tout le monde utilise , il est possible de trouver des cigares originaux venant directement des fabriques ,dans de nombreuses petites villes, a un tres bon prix (les boutiques des hotels par contre vendent les cigars tres chers). Il y a de nombreux checkpoints ou toute voiture doit ralentir a 30km/heure et un policier ou soldat note quelquechose sur un carnet , ils doivent avoir des pages et des pages chaque jour mais il me semble que tout cela est plus un exercice d'intimidation qu'un reel outil , je doute que que ces datas soient entrees dans un ordi et scrupuleusement analysees !!! Lorsque l'on sort de la marina (qui ,bien sur, est gardee jour et nuit), le conducteur du taxi donne le compte du nombre de personnes qu'il sort et entre a chaque course. Chaque hotel a un garde a l'entree. Lorsque l'on s'apprete a sortir du pays par bateau, ce dernier est cherche par un chien juste avant le departUne famille francaise voulait partir de tres de bonne heure et avait demande un Checkout a 16h, pensant pouvoir mouiller dans la petite baie en face de la marina pour partir aux aurores mais ils ont été obliges de partir avant que le soleil ne se couche (la nuit, les gardes ne peuvent pas voir si quelqu'un monte sur le bateau, ils ont des jumelles et surveillent chaque bateau dans le chenal qui mene a la marina. Lors de notre entree, nous avions mal compris les instructions et tournes a la seconde bouee rouge au lieu de la premiere, donnant l'impression que nous allions au port commercial au lieu de la marina, ils nous ont appeles immediatement par radio pour nous donner l'ordre de tourner donc ils nous observent aux jumelles tout le long du chenal. Lors de l'arrivee d'un bateau, le nom de tous les ports que vous avez l'intention de visiter doit etre donner precisement et vous devez obtenir un permis de sortie et d'entree dans chaque port (par contre les frais de douanes et immigration ne sont a payer qu'une seule fois, heureusement !). Il est aussi interdit de mouiller en dehors d'un port, mais certains bateaux le font (surtout dans le sud ou il y a des tonnes de petites iles, de nombreuses etant inhabitees) , c'est une de ces regles qui semble ok de ne pas suivre. Au fil de nos rencontres, j'ai eu l'impression que l'on etait bien loin de l'ouverture dont on parle tant aux USA. Je pensais vraiment que d'ici quelques mois , Cuba allait s'ouvrir au monde exterieur mais maintenant je ne suis plus aussi optimiste. Roger, un artiste cubain de Holguin, qui parle parfaitement Français (sans jamais avoir été en France!) ,emu aux larmes car son fils est parti vivre au Kansas il y a maintenant 7 mois , il ne sait pas si ou quand il reverra son fils, j'en avais le cœur chavire ... Les jeunes semblent tellement avides de liberte et veulent ,pour la plupart, s'en aller (nos conversation et le feeling d'une famille francaise qui revenait de Havana et nous a dit que tous les jeunes voulaient s'en aller).Pour notre part, nous avons aussi rencontre un monsieur d'a peu pres 60 ans, qui nous a reconduit a la marina apres avoir laisse la voiture de location et alors qu'il nous demandaient d'où nous venions et que David , en essayant de continuer la conversation , lui demanda si il avait de la famille a Miami , il repondit fierement et fermement " non, toute ma famille est a Cuba ", donc a priori, il y a quand meme encore de fervents et fideles revolutionnaires. Deux choses quand meme tres positives : Tous les Cubains ont acces a une assurance sante gratuite et le taux d'alphabetisation est de 99% alors qu'avant la revolution (1957), il y avait environ 50% d'analphabetes a Cuba. Entre 2011 et 2014, beaucoup plus de choses ont change, les Cubains peuvent acheter leur maison au gouvernement par payment mensuels si ils le veulent ou peuvent, ils peuvent aussi dirriger leur propre business (pour la plus grande partie, lie au tourisme, les casa particular- bed and breakfast ( sur lequel le gouvernement puise des taxes), les restaurants prives, les taxis... Depuis l'effondrement de l'URSS, Cuba a vraiment souffert economiquement et a du trouver des moyens de soulever des fonds monetaires donc la privatisation des maisons et les taxes remenent un peu d'argent. Et puis, le tourisme est une mine d'or (1 million de canadiens par an). Le visa d'immigration vient d'augmenter de 15CUC a 75CUC fin fevrier dernier, les pauvres jeunes etudiants francais qui avaient choisit Cuba au lieu des Bahamas car les $300 des Bahamas était trop cher ont donc eu une tres mauvaise surprise lorsqu'ils ont appris la nouvelle (un equipage de 4 personnes (300CUC plus 55 CUC pour le bateau et cela pour 30 jours seulement !). donc le tourisme pas cher a Cuba est en train de disparaitre, surtout que les cubains ont vite compris un principe economique tres simple :L'offre et la demande, pour l'instant ,faire payer un maximum au touristes qui peuvent se le permettre, donc peu de prix sont affiches, et tout est un peu a la tete du client. Certains cruisers ont en fait une sorte d'agent - ami qui achete des articles a leur place (moyennant un pourcentage), c'est toujours meilleur marche que ce qu'ils auraient payes directement. Donc dans tout ce traffic, nous avons reussi a tenir 6 jours avant d'epuise notre budget mais un important point pour nous était de pouvoir se deplacer par nous-mêmes dans des endroits peu touristiques, la location d'une voiture était donc indispensable. Le prix de location des voitures est tres cher par rapport aux US, entre $75 et $100 (ou CUC, plus ou moins), et les routes ne sont pas tres bonnes donc nous avons prefere louer un 4X4 chinois, pratiquement tout neuf avec air conditionne (ce qui donne la possibilite de fermer les fenetres pour eviter la chaleur mais surtout la poussiere ! au prix de $100) pour ne pas rester au beau milieu du pays avec une vielle lada cassee sans air conditionne ($75), il y a aussi des peugeots moins neuves mais avec air conditionne ($85). La conduite est tres sportive dans ce pays car la route est a partager entre les grosses voitures americaines des annees 50, les gros bus longue distance, les " camiones " ( sorte de transport en commun pour les locaux et quelques jeunes backpackers), les charriots (" coche " ) tires par des chevaux ou des bœufs, des bicyclettes et quelques rares vespa, les pietons , eux-aussi, nombreux, sont definitivement non prioritaires et sautent vite en dehors de la route au moindre bruit ! Il faut donc constamment changer de vitesse, presque s'arreter lorsque une voiture arrive en sens inverse ou dans un tournant et que l'on se trouve derriere une charrette!!!! Nous avions prevus d'aller jusqu'à Camaguey (la plus proche ville coloniale de L'Oriente, la region ou nous nous trouvions),en prenant la route principale de l'est a l'ouest du pays (appelee Carretera Central), donc, j'imaginais une route a quatre voies, nous avons du renoncer et nous arreter a Las Tunas car apres 3h30 de voyage et quelques cheveux blancs en plus , nous n'etions qu'au tiers de notre etape, la route était de la meme taille que celle de Puerto Vita a Holguin, avec autant de different moyens de locomotions et encore plus encombree !!!! Las Tunas est une petite ville avec une place principale sympa ou David a trouve de bons cigars cubains a tres bon prix. Il y a des sculptures (style moderne) parsemant les rues , ce qui est interessant, a part cela , cette ville est renommee pour etre la capitale sexuelle de Cuba, je n'ai rien vu a priori. Nous avons fait deux rencontres tres sympas au bar de la place, un Quebecois marie a une cubaine deuis 10 ans, et Aidi , maman seule d'un adolescent asmathique de 13 ans qui n'a plus qu'un seul poumon depuis 5 ans. Aidi a 30 ans, a eu un enfant tres jeune, a quitte son mari qui buvait. Elle habite un petit village pres de Las Tunas ou elle est fait des manicures pour gagner sa vie, elle ne parle pas Anglais mais voulait vraiment communiquer et parlait doucement, j'ai donc compris pas mal de choses. Son fils va recevoir des soins hospitaliers a la Havane le mois prochain pour sa condition plus que serieuse. J'espere qu'ils trouveront un autre traitement pour ameliorer sa vie quotidienne. Nous avons invite Aidi a dejeuner avec nous et passer un moment interessant et emotionel a nouveau. J'ai remarque de nombreuses personnes amputees dans les rues, donc j'en deduis qu'il est peut-etre difficile d'obtenir tous les soins medicaux necessaires dans les campagnes ?
J'ai essaye de resumer dans cet article, les quelques passage de mon blog en Anglais. Apres 28 ans aux USA (Deja!!!), mon francais (orthographe, grammaire et tournures de phrase) est devenu plus qu'aleatoire, donc J'espere que les lecteurs francais me pardonneront!

Bucolic drive to Banes

15 April 2016 | Banes (Cuba)
Nathalie
My favorite drive was definitely the one from Guardalavaca to Banes crossing the rolling hills and seeing all the small villages along the way. This part of Cuba is much more wet and looks more fertile than the part we crossed on the west of Puerto Vita towards Gibara were the roads are very dusty. I guess that will change shortly when the rainy season begins which is soon. It looks like I imagine Cuba: mountainous, green, full of banana, papaya and mango trees, lots of gardening in the small villages and many fruit stands along the side of the road. It is not easy, nor fast, to drive, as there are a lot more carts pulled by horses or oxen in this region. Barnes is a small city, pretty busy, we went around and met a man who began to talk to us about Baseball (especially when we told him we were Americans), he is a fan of this sport as many Cubans are. We went and had a drink and he told us more about life in Cuba, the good and the not as good. He took us to a store which had lots of merchandise coming mainly from China but the price was as expensive, if not more, than the equivalent in the states, so most of the population cannot afford it. I saw quite a few people coming out again with this pressure cooker which seems to be the hot item of the month in every city we went to! We crossed paths with a friend of his that came back with some wonderful fishes for a local restaurant. He spoke to us about his family and told us he has a newborn and a 4 years old, his wife is a stay at home mom and as he was about our age, so David asked him if he had another wife before, the language barrier came into play and he understood that David asked him if he had another woman at the same time. So he answered no but that many men in Cuba have a wife at home and another woman in town. So I asked him if I could have two men if I lived in Cuba and he laughed and say “no, it is not possible!”, we had a good laugh, even the waitress was laughing so hard as she was half listening to our conversation! So I guess he was a fine representative of the “macho spirit”!

Rambling thoughts about Cuba

14 April 2016 | Cuba (ORIENTE )
Nathalie
Before you read this article, just be aware that it has not been written by an economist, nor a politician. It is a simple statement of observation and open ended questions of a person spending a few days in Cuba and not pretending to understand or present an accurate picture of the Cuban society. Ok, so now that we are done with the politically correct jargon, let’s talk about what I observed.
Money is a very confusing matter in Cuba. There is the CUC (Cuban Convertible Pesos) which is more or less equivalent to the dollar or euros, except that the exchange rate for the US dollar has a 10% penalty/commission (so for 1 US dollar you get 0.94 minus 10%= 0.87 CUC). All tourist attractions, renting a car, paying the marina, and not absolutely necessary items (like a stand-alone ventilator is 32CUC for example) are priced in CUC. In the other money, the national peso, 25 pesos = 1CUC and on a Saturday morning village open market, where you can buy veggies, meat, etc. , everything is priced in national pesos (for the locals). Small restaurants along the road are in national pesos but in tourist areas they are priced in CUC. It makes sense when you know that the monthly salary of a doctor for example was 20CUC until very recently (raised to 60CUC). So it seems to me that there is a two speed economy, one for the tourists and one for the locals. Except that even the Cubans themselves seem to be living on two different scales? The one who can speak English and live near the tourist centers are far better off than the other working in the field or just being an employee of the government without tourist interaction. Some Cubans (the one who can either by their education and location) left their government job to be freelance and make a lot more money as a taxi driver for example, and others complement their government job by the tourist tips which count for much more than their base salary (for example as a guide on a tourist snorkeling catamaran, they make 16CUC/month). Then the confusion adds up even more when you realize that most transaction that you are going to be involved with might have a third and /or fourth party involved who profit of the said transaction (your laundry being done, renting a car, etc…). This is not a problem for the tourist being here, you either come back or not if you did not like this, but what I am wondering is, how the Cuban family living in the middle of the country, (and there are a lot of them judging by the side trips we took on small dirt roads), are supposed to live on a more or less same standard (communist idea?). I saw a lot of difference in housing (we were invited in a Cuban’s house in Gibara, very beautiful , no A/C but very airy with high ceiling, multiple rooms in an old building and comparatively we saw one room shack with no window, just wood louvers along very dusty roads with no running water),the transportation (most Cubans do not have a car, some ride their bicycles, some have a cart pulled by a horse, most walk or take a public bus) and some kept the car that was in their family for three generations: our taxi driver’s car was given to him by his father who got it from his grandfather) . Cubans take pride in their physical appearance, they are clean, very well dressed, and you can see very modern and trendy teen-agers stepping out from wood shack to walk on the road! It is probably because lots of them have access to clothes coming from Florida through relatives (clothes are not taxed). Two great improvements from the revolution are that the whole population has universal healthcare as most of the developed countries around the world (except one. Can’t recall which one? Sorry, I could not miss this one! Don’t get me wrong, I absolutely love the country I married but I never understood their point of view on this basic subject!)), and the Cuban population is now 99.2% literate (lots of people in Cuba were illiterate before the revolution.) However, you can see in the city’s streets people queuing outside the stores (or the bank, or the telephone company) and generally one man’s job is to organize and direct the queue from outside to inside. The grocery stores have very little choice, so people (if they can afford it) complement their monthly ratio allotted by the government with items purchased on the black market (particularly meat which is very prevalent in the Saturday open market we went to in Santa Lucia, mostly pork , goats, chicken and very little beef, the most expensive meat). The vegetables are plenty and cheap, plantain, peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, yuccas, onions, loads of garlic stung together in an almost artistic way and fruits in season, lemon, pineapple, mangos, papayas, I did not see but heard about delicious avocados. Spices are very limited. The main starch is rice of course often accompanied by beans. I was slightly disappointed by the coffee, as I was expecting some of those delicious café Cubano like we have in Miami, it might be because we were on the country side but even the one I tried in Holguin were not great, I imagine you can get great Cuban coffee in Havana. Coming for a vacation stay, Cuba has so much to offer: it is a beautiful very big island, the landscapes are beautiful (for me especially the mountains, the waterfalls), the exotic multicolored old fashioned cars, the music , the cigars, the rum, the mojitos, the beautiful colonial buildings in cities like Havana, Camaguey, Trinidad, the splendid Unesco Vinales valley and by boat the islands of the south of Cuba as well as the “ Jardin de la reina “ islands. We were in the eastern side of Cuba ( the Oriente) and this short trip was more a short introduction and observation than a tourist trip per se ,as we were pretty far from Havana and the other tourist points of interest (beside the beach, diving, fishing, which we experience as cruisers or at home really so is not as interesting for us to discover, plenty of beaches near guardalavaca and all along the coast). I kept for last the people of Cuba. We had plenty of interaction, surprisingly open and genuine, and we really loved the Cuban people, they are kind, curious, funny and la familia for them is everything. They love to be well dressed and look beautiful (and they are) and romantism is as well displayed as in the street of Paris (remembering a young couple kissing romantically in a park in Holguin). Art galleries are present in each city and the art is very modern, colorful and original (we saw a school exposition of drawings and paintings in Gibara that was unbelievable in its originality) . I can’t speak for the music and party because I am not a night girl anymore but I can bet you that young people, particularly musicians and people who love to dance must have so much fun in Cuba in the evening.

La Loma de la Cruz (Holguin)

13 April 2016 | Holguin (Cuba)
Nathalie
There is one big hill on the northern side of Holguin called “La Loma de la Cruz” which you access through a climb of 465 steps leading to a panoramic view of the city. We left the car at the bottom and began to go up. Along the way, we encountered a few older ladies with flowers in their hands accompanied by one of their adult child. I began to try to engage a conversation with one of them while we were resting on one of the multiple benches along this very steep climb! I understood that on Sundays, this is like a religious pilgrimage as there is a cross on the top of the stairs. This lady was with her son and it was obviously a very intensive effort for a person of her age, her son was so sweet, helping his mom physically but also speaking some words of encouragement, it was very touching. Arriving at the top, the two daughters were waiting and taking pictures as the Mama made it to the top and we all clapped as she arrived surrounded by all her children. The view upstairs is marvelous and there is a tower as well where Roger, a very talented artist, displays his drawings on chiffon painting background, quite original, I bought two of them for 15 CUC and spoke to Roger in French. His French was so good that I asked him if he went to Paris (the dream of all artists?) but he said that he learned at school. It seems that some older Cubans know French and the younger ones have definitely switched to English. Roger’s son left and now lives in Kansas since 7 months , he was very sad not to be able to see him before a long time, it brought tears to his eyes and mine.

Holguin

12 April 2016 | Holguin (Cuba)
Nathalie
It takes about an hour to go to Holguin from marina vita (45km). The road is good but busy. Holguin is the fourth city in Cuba behind, Havana, Santiago de Cuba and Camaguey. We loved to walk around the city center and went from one Public Square to another, linked by pedestrian streets (Parque Peralta, Parque calixto Garcia, parquet Cespedes), we found easily a space to park around parquet Peralta. We were surprised by one thing. Many families just acquired the same exact item: a pressure cooker. We saw them all over the street in Holguin and the day before in the village of Santa Lucia where the sister of the taxi driver had to wait in line for a good 40 minutes in order to get hers. We were not sure if they had to buy it or if it was a government donation for each family but after several attempts of my very limited Spanish, I understood that they actually had to buy it, so it must have just been a huge shipment of the same item and it was a very hot item, I can tell you. I realized later that Cuban’s houses are mostly not equipped with an oven, so a pressure cooker is really useful.
Vessel Name: Cheval
Vessel Make/Model: Outremer 50
Hailing Port: Tavernier, Florida, USA
Crew: David, Nathalie, Alec and Emilie
About: The old crew of O'Vive reunited on Cheval for new adventures.

Cheval

Who: David, Nathalie, Alec and Emilie
Port: Tavernier, Florida, USA