Downeast in Southeast Alaska

Leave Ketchikan
Arrive Meyers Chuck
55 44.37:-132 15.48

Fueled up this morning an hour after the minus low (for more depth at the fuel dock, but not too much current), and headed north amongst heavy but orderly traffic. Neka has a lot to say whenever a float plane or helicopter buzzes by.

Beautiful skies all around us in Clarence Strait. Fog bank up ahead. There's a chance of thunderstorms this afternoon, but so far, warm and calm. Ironically, we're finally drying out a bit in the rainiest corner of the Tongass National Forest. Fish are jumping everywhere. There are several whales out and about; one breached a couple times off Cleveland Peninsula.

Is this cool, or what?

I asked my brother (who's out running charters on a yacht) whether it's busy at Baranof Warm Springs: yes, very. My theory is that the smaller, slower boats are well on their way back south, and next up are the bigger, faster boats. I am proven wrong at Meyers Chuck. With the northerly current, we got here early, while there was still room on the outside of the dock. A large cat followed, and took up the rest. Another sailboat braved the inside, but only so far as the end of the dock, where they can best make an exit. The deep water is too narrow to turn around on that side, and would probably take some finessing with bow thrusters to back out. I certainly wouldn't go there. Then in comes a cruiser, who takes one look at the dock, drops anchor, lowers up his dinghy and takes his dog ashore with practiced ease. (Dog person: check). Then there was yet another sailboat, whose helmsman was apparently very reluctant to anchor out, although second sailboat woman encourages him to.They didn't want to go on the inside, and were about to raft up to the cat - even though her people were away hiking on shore! I can't believe how presumptuous the men are. First sailboat guy even boarded the cat to catch their lines - without, of course, being granted permission to board. Boarding a boat without permission?! What planet are they from?! First sailboat woman says, "personally, I think it's pretty ballsy to raft up without asking the owner." You think?! Harry mentions that the cat plans to leave early. Second sailboat eventually anchors out, after they circled the cove a few times.

Both are men behind the helm, barking orders to their partners, who do all the line work and anchor handling. I am tempted to invite the women to jump their respective ships, and come with us, but I keep my mouth shut. Instead, I tell Harry how wonderful he is.