Downeast in Southeast Alaska

Leave West Brother 7:25a
Arrive Tracy Arm cove 2:25p
57 48.59:-133 38.12

We exited the anchorage to the south, the way we entered. The other northbound boats exited after us, but to the north. We cruised by the haulout on our way out. There must have been 50 animals there. Almost as soon as we were out in Stephen's Passage, a pod of a dozen or so Dahl's porpoises raced over to play in our bow wave. The Northern Song paced us, perhaps hoping to entice them over, but I'll bet their clients got some good pics anyway. By the time we passed False Pt. Pybus, we started seeing whales - everywhere! Some were breaching, some fin slapping. A couple large whales surfaced right alongside, swimming and breathing in choreographed synchronicity next to us for several minutes, completely unconcerned with us, although I think maybe one of them winked at me.

It was an excellent wildlife day, and to top it off, lots of bergs. A couple from Seward putted by on their inflatable to chat. They were curious about our boat, and we were curious about theirs (a 1980's sailboat by the same manufacturer as Tayana). They had picked up some bergy bits and offered us some. How nice is that? I should have taken them up their offer - I bet I could have traded some ice for some beer or tobacco from someone else. The couple moor their boat in Petersburg, and have been out and about on their boat for as long as we have. They were kinda stuck in Southeast because of the ferry strike. They were glad the ferries are running again, because they have a grandchild due soon, and they want to get back. We want to get back too - almost out of tobacco and beer!

An large inflatable load of people off a 100' yacht buzzed over to a rather large iceberg beached on the spit at the entrance to the cove. They looked like they were close enough to touch it when it shifted and rolled over on the rising tide, making awesome groaning noises just for a special effect. There was much squealing and excited chatter, but they didn't look any worse off for their misjudgment. Guessing they're not from around here. They had had a float plane bring them something just before we arrived. I wondered if maybe it was some beer or tobacco.

The smoke is getting really thick. By evening, we couldn't see across Tracy Arm any more, and the north wind was plugging smoke down Endicott Arm.