Downeast in Southeast Alaska

Vessel Name: Cimarron
Vessel Make/Model: 1976 32' Downeast
Hailing Port: Auke Bay, AK
Crew: Diane and Harry
About: We've been cruising SE Alaska waters on the Cimarron since 2001. Our home port is near Juneau.
Social:
08 August 2019 | Taku Harbor
07 August 2019 | Tracy Arm cove
06 August 2019 | West Brother Island
05 August 2019 | Farragut Bay
04 August 2019 | Petersburg
03 August 2019 | Petersburg
02 August 2019 | Deception Pt.
01 August 2019 | Thom's Place
31 July 2019 | Meyers Chuck
30 July 2019 | Ketchikan
29 July 2019 | Ketchikan
28 July 2019 | Foggy Bay
27 July 2019 | Brundige Inlet
26 July 2019 | Prince Rupert
25 July 2019 | Kelp Bay
24 July 2019 | Exposed Inlet
23 July 2019 | Exposed Inlet
22 July 2019 | Coghlan Anchorage
21 July 2019 | Bishop Bay
20 July 2019 | Khutze Inlet
Recent Blog Posts
08 August 2019 | Taku Harbor

Seas too big for the little boats

Leave Tracy Arm Cove 7:50a

07 August 2019 | Tracy Arm cove

Restless iceberg

Leave West Brother 7:25a

06 August 2019 | West Brother Island

Dog overboard

Leave Farragut Bay 7:55a

05 August 2019 | Farragut Bay

Don't lick an iceberg. Don't kiss a jellyfish.

Left Petersburg 9:30a

04 August 2019 | Petersburg

What is it with rocks?

Petersburg

03 August 2019 | Petersburg

Might go left. Or maybe right.

Leave Deception Pt. 2:40p

Seas too big for the little boats

08 August 2019 | Taku Harbor
Diane Meador
Leave Tracy Arm Cove 7:50a
Arrive Taku Harbor 1:50p

58 4.1:-134 0.79

My eyes were burning this morning, but it appears that the NW wind is not carrying new smoke with it. Perhaps interior BC is still on fire. For us, visibility and breathability improved the farther north we went. We paid for clear air with speed. We had NW15 and the tide against, and if that wasn't enough dues, 3' and 4' seas stacked up. That caused a lot of spray and brought us to a crawl. We considered spinning around and going back to Tracy Arm. Instead, we decided to raise the stays'l. Taku was upwind, so we tacked while motor sailing. That evened out the ride and improved speed so that we got here an hour earlier than we would have without the sail, despite the extra miles.

With the improved visibility, I was shocked to discover that none of the mountains on Admiralty Island had retained their snow caps. Most of the peaks on the mainland were also seeing daylight for the first time in an epoch or two. It looks like home ... and it doesn't.

As soon as we landed at the dock, all the other boats there wanted a wind and sea state report. They had been waiting before making a break north for Juneau. It was pretty rough out there for the sport fishing boats. The harbor is protected from the wind, and it's hot, hot, hot out of the breeze.

Restless iceberg

07 August 2019 | Tracy Arm cove
Diane Meador
Leave West Brother 7:25a
Arrive Tracy Arm cove 2:25p
57 48.59:-133 38.12

We exited the anchorage to the south, the way we entered. The other northbound boats exited after us, but to the north. We cruised by the haulout on our way out. There must have been 50 animals there. Almost as soon as we were out in Stephen's Passage, a pod of a dozen or so Dahl's porpoises raced over to play in our bow wave. The Northern Song paced us, perhaps hoping to entice them over, but I'll bet their clients got some good pics anyway. By the time we passed False Pt. Pybus, we started seeing whales - everywhere! Some were breaching, some fin slapping. A couple large whales surfaced right alongside, swimming and breathing in choreographed synchronicity next to us for several minutes, completely unconcerned with us, although I think maybe one of them winked at me.

It was an excellent wildlife day, and to top it off, lots of bergs. A couple from Seward putted by on their inflatable to chat. They were curious about our boat, and we were curious about theirs (a 1980's sailboat by the same manufacturer as Tayana). They had picked up some bergy bits and offered us some. How nice is that? I should have taken them up their offer - I bet I could have traded some ice for some beer or tobacco from someone else. The couple moor their boat in Petersburg, and have been out and about on their boat for as long as we have. They were kinda stuck in Southeast because of the ferry strike. They were glad the ferries are running again, because they have a grandchild due soon, and they want to get back. We want to get back too - almost out of tobacco and beer!

An large inflatable load of people off a 100' yacht buzzed over to a rather large iceberg beached on the spit at the entrance to the cove. They looked like they were close enough to touch it when it shifted and rolled over on the rising tide, making awesome groaning noises just for a special effect. There was much squealing and excited chatter, but they didn't look any worse off for their misjudgment. Guessing they're not from around here. They had had a float plane bring them something just before we arrived. I wondered if maybe it was some beer or tobacco.

The smoke is getting really thick. By evening, we couldn't see across Tracy Arm any more, and the north wind was plugging smoke down Endicott Arm.

Dog overboard

06 August 2019 | West Brother Island
Diane Meador
Leave Farragut Bay 7:55a
Arrive West Brother 12:40p

57 17.19:-133 52.0

The smoke, presumably from fires in the interior, is getting thicker. Calm and sunny. There were a lot of boats going every which way around the confluence of Frederisk Sound and Stephen's Passage. There were a couple large charter adventure boats lingering outside the entrance to the West Brother anchorage. We called one to see if they intended to anchor there for the night. If so, we planned to move on - the anchorage would be pretty tight with all of us. They were kayaking and watching sea lions at the haulout on the south island. Those sea lions had a lot to say - more as the tide came up and territories shrunk. They were pretty loud, even though they were about a mile away from the anchorage.

A fishing boat came in and set down early evening, and the Northern Song, an adventure boat out of Petersburg, came in fairly late. We were going to put over to the haulout after Neka's beach romp, but one surfaced next to the boat, and Neka nearly dragged us both overboard. Yeah, not such a great idea - we turned around. A gang of juvenile sea lions checked out the anchorage as the tide covered the sand and shell bar between us and the haulout. Neka had a lot to say about that, leaped into the inflatable tied to the boat, and then fell overboard. Then she soaked us both with a good shake after we rescued her. I'm glad we could provide a little entertainment to the charter's clients this evening.

The sun set blood red.

Don't lick an iceberg. Don't kiss a jellyfish.

05 August 2019 | Farragut Bay
Diane Meador
Left Petersburg 9:30a
Arrive Read Island, Farragut Bay 2:58p

57 6.75:-133 11.14

We figured we'd take off a couple hours before the low tide, so the ebb could help push us off the dock, but we would be past max current. I passed the time drinking coffee and watching jellyfish float by at 3 or 4 knots. Our daughter was urging us by text to visit the cold storage for a seafood breakfast, but we weren't that hungry yet. Unlike last night. Despite Google's list of restaurants still listed as open, there was not a single one actually open on Sundays. After walking around town, we went back to the boat to fix dinner. After dinner, a big fat sea lion tortured Neka by surfacing suddenly and repeatedly next to the boat, snorting his disdain for Airedales and snacking on herring.

When we tried to power up, the engine wouldn't start. The fuel lifter wasn't pumping - another electrical issue to chase down. We were good to go after a half hour, though. Even with a departure later than planned, we shot up the rest of the narrows doing 9 kts at less than 3/4 throttle.

Baird or Patterson Glacier (or both) back in Thomas Bay was/were spitting out icebergs along the north side of Frederick Sound. One of them bent around into Farragut, probably without any regard for the crabpots we diligently dodged near the entrance. Went all the way around Read Island instead of taking the shortcut over a bar. We had lots of time, and didn't see any reason to take any risks. Yes, still pretty rock shy. Shoot, we've even been over that bar before.

Another beautiful day. Sunny, but a bit chilly in proximity to the glaciers. It's quiet in the bay. We saw a guy in a rowboat, but didn't see his mothership. Bear sign on the beach.

What is it with rocks?

04 August 2019 | Petersburg
Diane Meador
Petersburg

Tracked down the gauge problem to faulty wires on a harness - easy fix. By the time we wrapped that up and did some laundry, the current an hour after the -3' low was already ripping through the harbor, and the wind was picking up. Conditions made for a difficult exit. We decided to stay another day, pick up a few provisions, finish routing the rest of the way up.

Minus 3' is low, low, low. The ramp was like a ladder. I could see the bottom under the boat. The fish processor's vacuum hose couldn't reach the boats looking to offload from the top of the pier. I overheard a couple in the laundromat recounting how they had struck a rock in Thomas Bay (NW of here, across Frederick Sound) given an extreme low."It was just plain stupid," he said. "I shouldn't have tried the cut." They damaged the prop on one engine, and ripped out a drain plug. They were taking on water. A passenger asked if they had a wine cork. The woman said, "the wine I drink isn't that good." Thinking fast, she stuffed a ZipLock baggie into the hole, and they were able to get into Petersburg on one engine. (Glad to know ZipLocks are good for something!)

What is it with rocks, lately??

Next: Farragut Bay, West Brother, Wood Spit, Taku Harbor, Young Bay, back to our home port in Auke Bay on Sat., 8/10. Back home just in time for the weekend warriors and the full fleet of charter vessels. We're likely to be off grid for most of the week.

Total South: 1261 nautical miles
Total North: about 1090.5 miles
Total for the Magical Mystery Tour: about 2351.5
Total number of waterfalls: never enough!

Wow!

Might go left. Or maybe right.

03 August 2019 | Petersburg
Diane Meador
Leave Deception Pt. 2:40p
Arrive Petersburg 5:40p
56 48.78:-132 57.71

When we awoke this morning, the holed fishing vessel was gone. Those guys must have worked most of the night to patch the hole before the tide came up. Waiting on the tide. We need the last 1.5 hours of the flood to push us up through the Narrows. The aim is to arrive at the midpoint at slack, and then ride the ebb up the rest of the way. That's gonna mean strong currents while docking at Petersburg - oh, joy! Assuming that we can even find room at the dock after hours.

A pleasant morning in the sun while we wait. Spruced up the boat a bit; did some spit shining. Those tire marks on the hull from the fuel dock had to go. I even got a nap in. We picked up (rapidly, because of currents, freshening breeze, crab pots, and reef). We launched like a rocket as soon as we rounded Deception Pt. into the Narrows. There's a fish opening, so there was a steady parade of fishing boats and processors heading south from Petersburg. Harry had too work to keep our speed in check, so that we'd hit the midpoint at slack. Our timing was pretty good. I could take full advantage of the ebb on the northern half. The old girl gets a little squirrelly at 8 or 9 knots, but it sure is a fun ride!

I needn't have worried about room in the harbor. It's half empty what with the fish opening, and the number of Washington boats has dropped off. The tach and oil pressure gauge is twitchy at low RPM. Will need to chase that down (probably a loose wire on the engine block or a bad ground), a still need to do some laundry, and Farragut (next anchorage) is as far as I've gotten routing. Trying to decide whether to go up Chatham or Steven's. Chatham is longer, more scenic, and the anchorages are likely to be full of adventure charter boats still. On the other hand, we kind of feel like we've stretched our luck a bit. I'll have to tally up the miles, but I'm guessing we've travelled about 2,300 miles on the Magical Mystery Tour.

So, yeah. Might need another day in P'burg. Might go left. Or might go right. Meanwhile, it's a beautiful night, with gorgeous pastels in the sky, a sliver of a moon, and the sweetest old dog out on the dock. Nope, doesn't suck!
Cimarron's Photos - Hot Springs Tour
Photos 1 to 61 of 61 | Main
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Redoubt Lake pyramid?
Sitka Sound
Storm front enroute to Goddard
Sitka sunset
Sitka sunset
Sitka sunset
Redoubt Lake long view
Redoubt Lake cliff
Redoubt Lake
Entrance to Redoubt Bay
Entrance to Redoubt Bay
Redoubt Bay otter raft
Surf outside Necker
Redoubt Lake cliff
Redoubt Lake bears
Surf outside Necker
Warm Springs plane: Excuse me, do you have any beer?
Warm Springs Falls
Entrance to Whale Bay
Whale Bay
Wooden Island, X marks the spot
Wooden Island, southernmost Baranof
Warm Springs deer
Warm Springs bath house
Free Movies: Titanic? No, thanks
Tight passage in Red Bluff
Deer
Tenakee P.O.
View from Goddard Springs
Red Bluff falls
Entrance to Puffin
Goddard anchorage
Fog bank in Chatham
Harry shrimping
Funter Bear
Hawaii?
E of Baranof looking north
enroute to Sandy Bay
Deep Cove anchorage
Deep Cove falls
Deep Cove: Go left, then right, then left
Deep Cove Megalanche
Orcas
Kidney Cove
otter
Enroute to Necker
Peril Strait tug: Roger, port to port. Hey, do you have any beer?
Thanks for the part, mister
Puffin Bay entrance
Port Armstrong
Mt Edgecumbe, outside Sita
Many falls, Chatham Strait
Kritoi Basin fish processor
Kritoi Basin entrance
Kritoi Basin
Liquid solar array
Liquid solar array
New windows!
 
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21 June 2016
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