Gybes, Kaş and Lycian tombs
17 October 2014 | Gokkaya, Turkey
Francis and Chris
Friday October 17th, 2014: Gybes, Kaş and Lycian tombs
We did not explore Kalan itself but upped anchor on Tuesday morning around eight as there was a little bit of wind teasing us to start moving. The wind got a bit better when we got out of the shelter of the bay and sent us on a running course (wind coming from behind). You would say that you cannot have a better wind than coming from behind, but the opposite is true. One of the problems with a running course is that it makes the boat roll a lot. If you have your main sail up, you need to let out your boom so your main sail is almost perpendicular to the axis of the boat. Unless you strap the main boom with a line (preventer) somewhere to the fore deck or use ingenuous and expensive other equipment, chances are that the rolling of the boat causes the wind to catch the main sail on the forward-pointing side, quickly pushing the sail plus (heavy) boom to the other side of the boat (gype or jibe). If that happens in heavy wind, chances are that the main sail gets ripped to pieces and anything or anybody in the way of the boom gets swept overboard, often seriously injured. My solution for running courses is to employ only the head sail (or tack before the wind if I'm patient = never). That is much safer but you also lose the propelling force of the main sail and the rolling boat still lets the foresail catch the wind on the wrong side from time to time. In short: a running course is a pain (I'm sure someone will comment to the contrary).
To give Tony some idea about the running course, we did it for about an hour, including having main and head sail up and winged out (one on each side of the boat). Unfortunately we don't have a pole to help the head sail to stay open. We can't use the autopilot on a running course and you really have to be very focused when steering to prevent gybing. After one hour or so that was enough and we took in the main and went on for another hour on head sail only until the wind completely disappeared and the engine (and autopilot) took over.
We arrived in Kaş around midday and did a quick survey of useful anchorages. One attractive anchorage was in a little cove, but it was also someone's backyard, so we decided to leave them their privacy and move on. There is a new marina in Kaş costing around $100 per night, more expensive than a hotel room. There is also one of the few Turkish village ports which we had a quick look at and decided it was better to anchor somewhere.
We found a very attractive anchorage in the SW part of the bay. We chucked the dinghy overboard and motored to a little restaurant. The chicken schnitzel was off the menu so it was two mixed omelettes and beer/tea. Tony and the waiter got into an animated exchange about soccer teams and the quality (or lack thereof) of the current Turkish team especially. Back to patient Clio for a swim. Tony saw a couple of sea turtles but I was not lucky enough to capture one on camera. That night we had an excellent dinner at the hotel La Mode. The owner also owned a couple of restaurants in Aberdeen and Edinburgh which had won 'best Mediterranean cuisine. awards. The menu was indeed various and made in good taste. The owner was happy to entertain us with part of his life's story until the entrees arrived. It was a feast and modestly priced too. Definitely another stop when Chris is back on board.
After a quiet night at anchor in Kaş, we discussed whether to stay another day/night but eventually decided to forge ahead to Finike, the furthest point on the journey, possibly stopping over on the way back. On the way out of Kaş bay, we had a quick look at some of the Lycian (will explain later) rock-cut tombs (see photo) that we were too lazy to visit on foot that afternoon. What a slack behaviour for amateur-explorers.