Kayaköy and the Kadyanda ruins
30 October 2014 | Gocek
Francis and Chris
Thursday 30 October 2014: Kayaköy and the Kadyanda ruins
Today Chief Tony and I hired a car to have a look at some villages around Fethiye but more importantly, visit the Kadyanda ruins. We had brunch in Fethiye and drove up and over a very steep mountain to the now abandoned village of Kayaköy. Up until 1922 Anatolian (mainly Christian) Greeks lived here, but were driven away by the persecutions during the Greco-Turkish War (1919-1922), which was instigated by the (failed) Greek invation of Ottoman Turkey, with political and military support of the allied forces, particularly the Brits and French navies. It is quite chilling to read about the death of Greek and Turkish civilians during that war (Statistics of Democide: Genocide and Mass Murder Since 1900. R.J. Rummel 1998).
On our way from Kayaköy to the Kadyanda ruins we drove through Ölüdeniz, where we could find no signs in Turkish, the town apparently has been taken over by British retirees and holiday makers.
Before getting to the dirt road leading to the Kadyanda ruins, we drove through some small rural villages and it was very hard not to believe we were in the middle of rural France. The call to prayer from the squeaky speakers on the local minaret pulled us back to Turkey (though maybe that happens in France now too). The journey up to the Kadyanda ruins goes over a fairly rough dirt road and we were fortunate enough not to get stuck as we seemed to be the only visitors.
Like the Arykanda ruins, the attractiveness of the Kadyanda ruins is that you're pretty much free to explore in your own good time without much interference of anyone (including informative signs). You are allowed to stroll through the various heaps of stone that form more or less recognisable structures and let your fantasy reconstruct their function and how they fitted in the life back then.
The Roman settlement Cadianda (or Kandawanti in Lycian) is estimated to have been established around 5th century BC, and maybe a 3000 BC pre-Roman settlement. As with the Arykanda ruins, this Roman settlement is very likely built on or around an existing Greek one. It is thought to have been inhabited until the early middle ages, around the 7th century AD. Major water works, including four big cisterns, were part of the city. As Cadianda is situated pretty high up a mountain (no springs or big catchment rivers), collecting water must have been a crucial and ongoing activity to keep the settlement running. The amphitheatre, city walls, public baths, temple, village square and a running track with stacked stone seats are very recognisable. Many other heaps are less so.
All in all it was a very good trip and definitely worthwhile to do it again with Chris next time we're in the neighbourhood.