Friday 10 June
We headed out this morning back to Ormos Ay. Ioannou (Bay of Holy Johannes) on the island of Paros to anchor for a couple of days while we wait for John, our first crew for the year, to arrive on Wednesday. Lots of time spent swimming and getting little chores done. We took the inflatable Cloe ashore (well, Cloe took us) and walked around to the boatyard to check out the prices for storing Clio over the winter. We wandered into the small boatyard and asked someone working on a wooden fishing boat if we could leave our boat on their yard. He asked whether our boat was ‘made of this’, while hammering his boat with his fist. We had to admit that ours was made of some sort of plastic, not the noble stuff that is organically produced by nature herself and then lovingly and with lots of craftsmanship moulded into a real Greek fishing boat. He instantaneously lost all interest in us and pointed with his thumb over his shoulder and with some disdain in his voice sent us away mumbling ‘over the road’ as if he was sending us to a place of ill repute.
The place ‘over the road’ turned out to be a very small boat yard and we were pleasantly addressed by a young fellow who did some calculations and triumphantly give us a price. He pointed out that the 24% tax was not his idea and that he regretted to have to bother us with a measure that the good people of Greek had resisted fiercely, but they were sold out by their politicians to the European Union demand for such demonic measures as paying tax to be able to repay their enormous amount debt to the Germans and other European savages. Even though the Greek islands had resisted paying taxes to those Athenians for thousands of years with some success (apart from being overrun and massacred on occasion, a small price to pay), they were now being forced into paying house taxes by such sneaky methods as their electricity (still in government hands in Greece) being cut off if they didn’t pay their tax and having to show signs informing customers that they did not have to pay anything unless they received a proper receipt with the required transaction number showing it had gone through the tax office’s computers. We are confident that the good people of Greece will find ways around these measures, even if it was just to spite those Athenians or to get some satisfaction out of the cat-and-mouse game with the central government. Anyway, the price tag turned out to be a pleasant 50% reduction on the one we paid in Marmaris, be it for a lot less amenities.
Then time for some exploring. There is one taverna here which also has an outdoor movie theatre attached, now all but eradicated from mainland Australia. Chris has a nostalgic moment about the good times she had watching movies with her kids from the back of the station wagon. A little further up the hill is a very new amphitheatre (sponsored by blah and blah and many other blahs) and the starting points of many walking trails. We followed one of the trails up the hill and over the crest to see beautiful views over the Aegean, ink blue as ever and the light-blues of the shallows near the coast.

Monday 13th June
Early start today to motor our way back into the port of Paroikia to get Clio ready for our guest. Unfortunately the Gods of the Aegean winds had picked up on their ESP-phone that we were trying to outrun their cursed ‘on the nose’ winds by getting on our way just after sunrise and they had sent some 20kts on-the-noses our way, just to teach us a lesson. We were hoping again to get into the little harbour or Paroikia, but no such luck, it was still chock-a-block so we anchored out in the bay, subjecting ourselves to more Meltemi winds.

Tuesday 14th June
Still no chance of getting inside the harbour we watched and waited for an opportunity to tie up on the outside of the quay, still fairly exposed to the Meltemi but access to the water we needed to clean our Clio. Around eleven a couple of boats moved out and we moved in. Then to work, giving Clio a well-earned wash and preparing the deluxe suite for our next one-man-crew. Clio was filled with fuel (including the 24% tax) and water and we are ready for John’s arrival.

Wednesday 15th June
At 10.20 the superfast ferry from Piraeus arrived and with Chris in the red hat armed with pink oleanders we were looking out for a man smoking a pipe and having a folded Financial Times under this left arm, as the agreed secret signals. Unfortunately John had not kept to his part of the bargain (he claimed innocence), so we tried to ignore him. John however was not going to be ignored after 24 hours on a plane and another 6 on a ferry, so we greeted John and welcomed him to Greece. After getting him settled on board we did the obligatory shopping, safety briefing and Clio introduction, then headed back to Ormos Ay. Ioannou to give him some time to get used to life on board. We spend his first evening in this lovely bay. After some sleeping and swimming we headed ashore for dinner. On the way we spotted another dinghy coming towards us and waving us down. As we pulled alongside they said we are looking for Francis! As his name was mentioned by the newcomers, Francis fight and/or flight impulses kicked in, maybe Australian tax office agents were after him, or an ex had come to tell him about the triplet she had given birth to 25 years ago, or (worse of all) the Dutch government had decided to drag him back? Before he could turn the dinghy to make a run for it, Chris bleated out ‘you found him’, and then they introduced themselves as a couple from Australia who Chris had been introduced to via Facebook by a fellow walker in the Wello walkers (Wellington Point walking group). Amazing he recognised Clio from photos and we promised to drop in on our way back to Clio, after dinner!
As promised we visited Earl and Dianne and their guests on board their yacht, for lots more discussion and tips regarding anchorages, islands and boats until we had to drag ourselves away to give our slightly jet-lagged new crew member a good night’s sleep.

Thursday 16 June
This morning we motored to Naxos to anchor near the gate of Appollo. We knew this anchorage from last year when meeting up with Simon and Jim and it was ok as long as there was no Northern wind.
After a swim and lunch, it is time to go ashore and wander through the labyrinth of Naxos old town. On the way we spotted a marble copy of the Harpist (a Cycladian piece of early sculpture) and took some photos for friends in the Netherlands. John and Chris visited the Venetian castle and archeological museum while Francis enjoyed a nap on the cool stone bench in front of the museum’s entrance.
When we returned to Cloe the sea was very choppy and we had a rough and wet ride back to Clio. Skipper decided this is not a good place to spend the night so, up with the anchor, and we headed south to a much more comfortable anchorage for the night.

Friday 17 June
After a good night’s sleep anchored off the Naxos coast sheltering from some Northern winds, it is time to head for Iraklia, we tried in vain to sail in little wind. When we reached the natural harbour of Iraklia we were delighted to find that we are the only yacht and happily tie up stern-to onto the quay alongside the many fishing boats and the boat bus/taxi. Later in the day another yacht with a German couple pulled in alongside for the night. This is such a lovely spot we decide to stay for two nights and do lots of sleeping and lazing about with the occasional visit to the beach for swimming, snorkelling and a beach tennis match. John is very quickly adapting to this gruelling schedule and starting to recover from his jet-lag.

Saturday 18 June
More of the same and tonight we were treated by John to fresh locally caught calamari, chicken fillet and ouzo in a taverna on the hill overlooking the bay. After dinner the owner delivered more complimentary ouzo followed by complimentary dessert and some kind of spirit in peach juice. Chris and Francis could not drink the peach juice concoction so John had to take one for the team and down them all, so as not to cause offence to the generous owner. We appreciated his gallantry and ensured his safe return to Clio.

Sunday 19 June
Time to leave this little paradise and head back to the bustle of Ios to share with John the diversity of these Greek islands. After motoring all the way with absolutely no wind and not another boat in sight, we managed to pick up another yachts anchor chain while attempting to moor on the quay. John was able to assist Chris and get us free and second time lucky we got Clio secure. Unfortunately though we had dragged the other boats anchor and he had to then take in his anchor and remove his yacht. Francis apologised with a six pack of Alpha beer and all was forgiven.
That night we didn’t feel like cooking and so we introduced John to a genuine Greek gyros: meat, a smidgeon of salad and tomatoes and a handful of chips wrapped up in a pita bread. It would be very effective post-nightclub food, a very filling meal for a whole €2.50 along with some fine Greek wine.
As Ios is a (20 NM) stone throw from Thia (Santorini), and we didn’t really want to take Clio into Santorini, we suggested to John to jump on a ferry to have a look at this very photo-genial island (John is a keen photographer). It would have been a shame to miss such an opportunity. So John bought a ticket for a day trip to Santorini where he will go tomorrow for some solo exploring. Off to our little house on the water for some more sleep.