Our plan to leave Suwarrow was squashed when we woke up to a beautiful breathless day in this part of the pacific. So after signing our departure papers with our 2 park rangers we left our departure date open for a day with enough wind to push us to American Samoa. So then, on with another day, another dive, another reef and still there is plenty of each to do should we get (happily) trapped in this perfect swimming and non-sailing weather. So �"Perfect Reef�" it is for today just got to find it ........ From deep in the coral reef the shards of sunlight speared past me lighting the way through the teal waters and down the 200ft drop of this atoll of which we were snorkelling and free diving. Big plump butter coloured brain coral was the foundation for a clam garden and each of clam�'s curly edge were bursting with stunning frills of jade, purple, navy, or aqua keeping me intrigued as they withdrew when I mermaided by. These coral cliffs would be as tall as a skyscraper on land. Although we are currently in the middle of nowhere, I am surprised that this wasn�'t the haven for more fish life. There were still a variety of fish; you just had to go looking further afield, around the cliff face of coral, under the shelves and into the caves. Come to think of it.......the sharks we saw when we walked across to the outer side of Suwarrow Island were aggressive and perhaps that is why the fish are so few. Hmmm as this thought drifted into my mind, the horror of seeing one of �'those�' big boys nudged its way in. I flippered hard back up to the surface to see if I had coasted away from the other enthusiasts. My legs trying to keep me up must have given away my inner fear as a big black mask pops up nearby and asks if I am ok. �"Oh yes�" I try to say nonchalantly, then, he says with excitement �"So did you see that shark too?�" �"WHAT!�" I say, almost elevated like a dolphin because I am kicking so hard. �"He pasted right by you�" he laughs. I stick my mask into the water and wave myself into a 360 to see if the shark has me on his menu. I must have come up with eyes way larger than the normal magnification of my mask glass because he laughed and said it was just a big black tip so you are ok. Oh sweet cheeses, I might just get myself into the inner side of this reef and play with the little guys. This outer reef has way too many dark intriguing spots for me just now. I drifted my way through the coral to where the pool of shallow reef started with white sand bot tom pockets of warmer water that was clearer than tap water. Almost like retreating to kindergarten I hung in the safety of that playground and picked up where I left off. Now here the biggest fish in the pond were the pretty parrot fish in their mint green/pink colouring and downturned mouths that were harmless no matter how many were in the school. But I did see one little guy that I could relate to as he swam out of his hole - saw me and back peddled as fast as his little fins could manage. But his helpless black eyes still possible to see even though he was totally black and cute as pie. He looked at me and I think he was thinking about sweet cheeses too but I couldn�'t laugh because water comes into my mask when I smile too big. My favourite were the tiny blue-purple fish too tiny for any real detail, except they too scooted into the sanctuary of the white coral, and just like putting your head in the sand they too were safe from this passersby. There was the little sli mline fish zooming by whose snouts looked like they were pinched into a trumpet as a last resort. The black and white fish, although few, were a standout in the aquamarine backdrop, whereby the aubergine fish were camouflaged well in the dim forest and when you got close you saw the perfect orange dots completing their ploy. There were stubby starfish that I thought were only drawn as a pudgy cartoon creature, turned out to be plentiful as I did the loop of the inner reef. But the white lips perfectly outlined on some of the dark brown/black fish were an impressive attribute to go with their belly band. Out of the pool and back into the chill of the outer reef where hundreds of tiny silver fish in the distance are like confetti fluttering in the sun. I make my way back to the dingy admiring the brown manta rays shaped more like an aerodynamic moth as he shot through the water with ease. I too shot through the water and caught-up with the others to hear what they found. So the day before was our (supposed) goodbye sundowners on Condesa where the sun set showed off superbly. Yesterday was a successful trawling expedition where Capt humming and Pedro caught enough fish to call a beach BBQ for the surprised 8 boats within. Today was Perfect Reef and tomorrow �- who knows but perfect seems to be the theme. We will let you know when/if we actually leave this unspoiled paradise but we are perfectly happy.