We have �'officially�' left Apia �- Western Samoa, where lots of dreams came true. I say officially because of all the islands we have visited this one seemed to have a lengthy process for checking in and checking out. Whereby you are not allowed to enter the port without the Port Masters say-so, where they then usher you to your mooring and you must not get off the boat until all 4 authorities have visited you and filed the detailed paperwork. This for some boats was an all day process, we were lucky as the entire run of uniformed officials had visited one after the other and before we knew it the process was all but complete. So, depending how far and how hard you have sailed this important officialdom can be arduous and intrusive to an exhausted boatie. We had been given a mooring berth right at the access ramp 20 paces to the street, and just across the road was... in order of importance: a ice-cream shop (that sells alcohol out back), fire dance shows, a fish cafe, and one of many bars and night clubs whose music you sleep to. To the left of us was the dock with a string of restaurants dripping with coloured fairy lights that added live music to the nightclub mix each night. Turn right and a harbour-side path leads you into the town markets just a casual 20 minute stroll in everyday sunshine. However, first you have to get past the gathering of taxi drivers. Each one will ask you where you are going and if you want a taxi despite the fact that they are standing together talking. They all dream that you will select their taxi to take you on an island tour and pending on how big your boat is, as to how they gauge the fee. So the tussle was on to get our business once they saw our boat dock. He who hums started it off one day by taking Henry�'s taxi to �"golf�" but happened upon a cricket field instead where he got dropped off. And before you know it he was snapped up into a local team. Someone�'s dreams came true that day as that win made them con tenders for the finals. Everybody playing was more than happy. I got the full story when they kindly returned him home assuring me that he (who is hummingly handy) definitely has a place for next week�'s game. Now the word is out, and the taxi drivers are �'game on�' for the cricketer/golfer where all fields/courses are a good drive away from the marina. But the dream run for the cabbies is the airport loop and I had to snare a �'Johnny on the spot�' when Henry slept in, leaving me stranded. I hesitantly got into this taxi at 4.30am in the dark of night wondering where �"I�'ll-be-here-waiting�" Henry was. All the excitement of picking up my much awaited visitors was squashed as we tore off for the half hour drive in the unlit streets. I was sitting in the back feeling uneasy about this new driver who I didn�'t know, although I noted in the dark this was a much nicer car than Henry�'s taxi. He stops for fuel, delaying my arrival time further, then just as we are about to head off a ta xi screams to a halt across our path and out jumps a (200kg) Henry calling my name. I slink down slightly as he put his sleepy Samoan face to my window saying he was there by 4.30am why did I leave. I let them tussle it out in Samoan language and I sat my ground in the nicer taxi wishing to be elsewhere. Finally I arrive at the airport where the hug of a girlfriend who I haven�'t seen for 6 months feels all the more surreal and secure. I lead the happy new arrivals Narelle and Nastassia to my patiently waiting cab and pick up conversations like it was only yesterday pausing occasionally to point out one of the many magnificent churches that are on every turn just as the day starts to break. The little visit we dreamt of had begun and before I knew it our galley was filled with girl-power as I was surprisingly showered with little luxuries I didn�'t know I missed. He who hums was adorned with bags of lollies and soon became our driver of choice as we planned a venture into the beauty and culture of Samoa and across the waters to the Island of Saavii. Here the discovery of the hidden bungalows stilted outin the blue freshwater lagoon with the massage deck overlooking the bliss. This was more than we imagined and the Brisbane pace dropped away as the girls adapted immediately to the tempo and lifestyle of our remote find. Samoa is about the discovery; the ever smiling locals welcome you into their homes and lives but really can�'t help you with directions or locations of interest on their much loved land. You just stumble upon these treasures as the tourist map lacks detailed directions. However that added mystery and surprise to the 5 day venture with the girls I feel he who hums as he finishes his bag of lollies might describe it differently. Now as we charge onward to Fiji in big winds and rough seas I cherish the time we shared in Samoa. But moving further west we are getting closer to seeing 2 special people who I dream escape their workload to share this journey for just a little while too. Then the dream will be complete.