After a feisty sail from GC without the guidance of any moonlight, we opted to cross Wide Bay Bar and take rest to break up the 48hour passage in the ocean. PS You know you can’t drop the anchor out in the big blue! 🤪
We stand-off allowing the morning light and higher tide to fill our world before He Who Never Hums prior to a bar crossing , radios for a report on the conditions. Unfortunately it was too early for any information on todays crossing. The only suggestion was to head east and look at the state of the entry conditions for ourselves.
We catch sight of broiling seas and felt as unsettled as the surface of the bar. So a bit more watching…waiting…wanting…but not really willing. Trying to not overthink the sandbanks that act like land mines. We don’t hesitate any longer and move to the entry.
You know, I think these conditions are only perfect for a keen photographer to freeze frame the moments of white water dancing high against the innocent early morning sky.
He Who Hums has all the responsibility for Condesa and it’s precious cargo.
Me? Oh my job is to firstly….. hand out the life jackets prior to entry and then to give a response to any uncertainties. 🤗
We have in hand, our updates GPS maps, amended waypoints and when you marry them to what you see it gives you the distinct feeling that you have all the gear and no idea. 🤓
Anyway, as I was saying it is my job to be the second set of eyes and ears to the equation. It’s the easier job. I just need to keep an eye on the screen and let He Who Hums know when to keep Condesa to port or starboard. Yes! I insist, keep to port! I resist looking but I can hear the wave building behind us and it sounds like a pearler. Any surfer would be wetting themselves with excitement. I keep my eyes forward, confident even with our bowsprit heading down a trough. Now I am able to estimate the heights behind us just as Condesa sits back into the wave , enjoying it, like she’s some sort of recreational surf ski.😜🌊
YES - I encourage with certainty, stay on this line! Watching our little yacht icon tracking the pink line on navionics, my bible and I have faith we are in the deepest path of the channel and looking good. he Who can’t Hum is looking at lots more still to come and possible saying a wee prayer.
All the vessels in the bay are poised waiting for our report to Coastguard Tin Can Bay once we are safely inside.
He Who ordinarily Hum’s voice is raspy, strained from a big stint at sea.
He speaks of a “boisterous bar” with 3-4 metre breaking waves. And we both instantly feel for the small yachts as they head out. Out of courtesy we wave back merrily, not wanting to burst their bubble. Clearly they haven’t sighted the sets of waves yet.
They leave bliss trailing in their wake from the fast emptying pond in which we anchor. We watch the Congo line of vessels head out, confident with the fact that a vessel has made it through. Or it could be a Safety-in-numbers thing… (I’m pretty sure that works better in the Animal Kingdom tan a fleet)🙈🙉🙈
However it appears that today is the day for at least a dozen vessels.
Airwaves break the first outbound boat has cleared the bar. Repeating our description only to add, they were so glad not to be “that vessel” surfing inbound. Ummm 🤭That’d be Condesa and she never gave any doubt in her ability as she held her line firm (43 tonne does that for you 😜), constantly reinforcing her magnificent seamanship.
The good ol Hereishoff Schooners - engineered and designed since the 1800’s for waters well beyond this mosh pit.
Us? Well we are built for response and responsibility and navigate the rest with huge respect for the sea.
* An old sea salt friend John Phorr gave us some sailing tips early days. “In moments of extreme situations, 9 times out of 10 it will be the crew who falter - not the vessel. (Noted!)

Well now, AMEN to us and all the people who are navigating obstacles on land or sea. Apply this where you will. This is only one of many tips I have kept up my sleeve. Thanks JP 😘🙏🏻

We are back!

Big cheers to one spectacular adventure with He Who Hums and Pedro; the world circumnavigator/ legend/sea-dog and Viking (incase you didn’t know).
The Caribbean voyage has left me with a kaleidoscope of Island memories and physically I feel free as a bird. 🕊️
I say “I” because He Who Hums feels a little lack lustre from the 3 leg flight home from Panama. After weeks of balmy nights spent sleeping on top deck ducking in and out as showers passed over him.🌧️
When one door shuts another opens they say. Both of us relieved to be through customs when the automatic doors of Brisbane International Airport open to reveal two sweet faces peeking over the rails, little hands gripping their signs larger than their small frames. WE are home!
Like always I cling to the joys of blue water sailing. Knowing it is the fragility of some things that gives more value to life.
So standing here on the threshold between land and sea I unpack some lessons learned.
On top of the list is patience, acceptance and faith, a gift from island people with nothing but big smiles. 🙏🏻
Then there is less clutter, simple living reliant on what you have available. Sailing life is as raw and real as the island grown food we consumed. All marked, pitted and imperfect, yet tastier, fuller and richer. Onboard it is mostly about the weather and the “power you find within” fills every other void. I can tell you just outside of our comfort zone is a place of absolute truth with no room for anything but the facts.
In the blink of an eye we are back in “perceived” reality. Reminded instantly of the role media plays in our everyday lives in the city. The breaking news alerts delivered with full impact.🙈 The old saying no news is good news is where I like to stay. I can’t tell you how peaceful it is not having access to the horrors of world news. I wouldn’t mind if it was balanced with good news but no…good news doesn’t sell 🤷🏻‍♀️
The best headlines for us on returning were two little signs -

Welcome Home G-Ma and Dar
Love Edie and Lulu!

That is all! Oh and Thanks for coming for the ride with us!

3.30AM SV Jade is poised in a bay this side of the Americas Bridge to take onboard our pilot for the canal. Meanwhile we 4 x line handlers get a briefing on aft deck, by Pedro.
" Listen up!! (Bit of pirate gruff) Once we reach the lock, good chance we will be a mid-canal tie up. So, they'll throw a line down to each of you with a monkey's fist on the end. Get out of the way or it will knock you out cold! You then need to tie a bowline joining THEIR line to YOUR line. Quickly attach it and send it back asap! Don't muck around they'll be waiting." I'm standing amongst 30mtrs of rather unruly rope in a 2ft square space. I can tell by looking at it that it will tangle up as it leaves the deck. ..*must sort that first.. then I need to do a few practice bowlines without the advantage of seeing what I’m doing. 😜
It is after 4AM the pilot-boat is meant to be here. Pedro continues -"When he gets here the Pilot will instruct you further but things might change, so be ready"🥺
I can hear and feel the adrenaline escalating around as the variables are adding up.
Being a Pilot in the Panama Canal is considered a VERY prestigious position. Roy Bravo, our fabulous agent said that I should check if the Pilot would like a hot breakfast as soon as he arrives, and apparently the preference is a hot lunch they I’m responsible for also.👩‍🍳😬
Ok, add that to the pile of knots at my feet and in my stomach. Jeeze I now need to use the loo, alas no time. Out of the dark "He/Senor" stepped onboard with a co-Pilot! 👨🏽‍✈️👨🏿‍✈️And we are off... I'm on my way to happiness or misery today 🎶ahh-hah, ahh-hah. 😚
With our position low to the water we could take in the workings of the magnificent lock system. Imagine this place in 1880 clearing the dense, dark and dangerous jungle. Add in torrential rain, landslides and tropical diseases.🧟‍♀️ A living nightmare for sure.
At 4PM the final lock gates opened to the sound of bells ringing and 100 tourist's cameras pointed down at the final lock and the lock gates opening at a glacial pace. Our diminutive yacht overshadowed by the multi level car carrier over 200 mtrs long with its head up in the clouds.
I hear three cheers from the upper deck of the 1913 Panama Canal Building.
We were celebrating too, happy to report no one lost an eye or a digit. 😝👍
SV Jade is well clear of the canal by 4pm when another pilot-boat miraculously appears. I watch the satiated and happy pilot and his +1 take a weighty leap across the gap between our boats. Their day done as it speeds off with VIP urgency.
We could finally drop our guard after 12 hours on task. A little frayed around the edges we may be but it hasn't unravelled any of us! Pedro's manoeuvring of Jade in and out of 3 ascending and 3 descending locks with a strong under current and random turbulence kept him on his game. Bravo all round.
Canal tally for Super Pedro is now 11! What a Viking!
A double monkey fist pump to you! 👊😅

Last night we anchored in Linton Bay, up close and personal to reefs and the jungle. As the darkness settles over the jungle the terrifying sound of the howling monkeys along with the all night drummers (maybe the Kuna Indians) hindered our sleep. Whoever it was the rain did not hinder them. He Who Hums stayed on top deck suffering all three, despite the ear plugs of gave him. Apparently the howler monkeys can be heard 3klm away even through thick jungle, so orange ear plugs were definitely not the answer. 🙉
At first light Jade quietly mooched out and around the many vessels. Some obviously abandoned, some with sleeping owners whose guard dog chatted us. The guard dog’s furry companion lifted his head, eye rolled and resumed his resting position. Another day and another threat. As is like the graveyard of masts protruding from the water yet motionless in our wake. I shudder at the tragic loss of these vessels. The hidden monkeys sounding way more upset than the agitated dog to see movement so early in the morning.
A beautiful day in front, rain clouds building behind and restless cranes stirring in one favourite tree waterside.
Underway we watch hard and heavy rain fall, some threaten us, others caught up to us. But there is nothing like a fresh deluge of rain to break up the journey and cool things down. An hour can disappear quickly along with the sight of land. With very large dump of rain I can imagine the ecosystem of the jungle (now non visible) is ignited. Under the huge canopy is home to jaguars, pumas, spider monkeys, anteaters sloths and armadillos. Would loved to have seen a sloth!
The Atlantic side of the canal is very different to the Pacific side where the city of Panama stands.
When we transit the Canal leaving the Atlantic it will be the end of Pedros stories. I have enjoyed hearing about Blackbeards antics, Sir Francis Drake discoveries and Sir Henry Morgan's callivary and the soldiers who were sent to conquer. Many of them would never have seen the cross fire coming.
We only spot the cannons and gunneries clearly as as we exit each beautiful location.
These lands now inhabited with the surviving generations of the Pre Columbian Indians, the Europeans - Spanish and Portuguese, French, Africans, the Dutch and German along with the island natives, who together create the tapestry of nationalities living in the Caribbean islands.
What a magical carpet ride it has been for us. We, who came from our own large island, far from the history of gold smuggling, pirate raids and bloodbath battles of these lands.
We love our place down under we call home in the Pacific. The lucky country Australia!

It’s early morning and the normally calm waters of Bonaire harbour started to rise and fall. I stirred to a change in Jade’s tempo and poised for last nights dishes to start a racket🙉.(I left them out for God to dry)😬 I’m aware Pedro would have sensed a change way before the first clink of dishes.
It appears a mega cruise ship came into port at first light this morning. The American cruise liner has cast a large shadow over the quaint capital of Kralendijk. Yep, looks like they have more onboard than people live here- things are about to change in this seaside town.
I tippy toed my way over top deck, dodged the sleeping body of He Who Hums to find myself a seat with today’s vista. Shocked to see this ginormous ship actually has a roller coaster on top almost in the clouds. Is that even a thing? 😳
I can see why Pedro likes to sit here for sundowners. Nestled in each corner of the rear deck are two seats with a table to rest your beverage. The aft safetyrail wraps around giving back support and an arm rest! No core strength required…ahhh feet up 😑
Thankfully the sun is not high enough to affect the cool breeze off the water…but give it 5-10 and this too will change.🫠
This Caribbean Island has only two seasons - Dry and Drier! 🤣 Therefore warm (and warmer) all year round for anyone looking for the sun.
There’s Cacti aplenty on the northern end, the earth literally dry as an old boot. But cacti fencing is a thing!
The other end of this island has low lying flatlands, featuring tall pyramid shaped salt stacks ready for exporting. The surreal landscape opens up with kilometres of mauve-pink salt plains that glistens in the sun! I’m definitely adding this to the natural wonders of jg’s world for sure.
The insane pink mirage stretches along one side of the road and vibrant teal ocean on the other both illuminated by the white coral foundation.

I have mixed feelings about tiny miniature huts still standing neatly on the waters edge as they were historically for slaves whilst they harvest solar salt, Maize and to cultivate dyewood 😥
My mint green sarong fluttering against the turquoise waters draws me back to see
white coral waving from beneath the ripple. A school of black bodied fish with a perfect ultra violet outline pass under Jade, such contrasts on every level here. Exactly as the billboard states, Bonaire -In Nature We Live.
The waft of coffee percolating drifts up from the galley which tells me Pedro is awake and an immediate big splash on the portside indicates He Who Hums is up too. Time to get into this day and our chores.
Our next island adventure awaits on Curacao. 😎😍😎
In order, we need to:-
Drink up
Shoes on
Lock down
Shop around
and Check out with port authorities.
All before Jade Sails off in the direction of the Panama Canal.

Loneliness is the space inside your head.

3rd night at sea. A quick 360 degree scan, the Caribbean Sea is empty. Not a soul to be seen for days on end.

It is Saturday 5th August. Dinner is done, the sun has set across the water without any pizzazz at all 🤷🏻‍♀️ and now I’m on watch until mid-night.
It is a perfect temperature under the stars and I have the consistent Caribbean trade wind as my friend.
I get settled, select two navigation stars on the forward port side to follow. A little celestial navigation never hurt anyone. 🤣Just in case the gps cuts out. SV Jade is pointing west for the ABC islands Netherlands (Aruba, Bonaire and Carasao) We map 130NM daily. ETA - another two days. 7/8/2023

I start by taking in the GAZILLION pinholes across the blacker than black sky. Twinkling brightly like great knowledge and power stands behind the ink black veil called night sky.

Looks like a clear night of magical sailing. It’s is perfection, just the visible main sail and gib moving us along at a steady 5knots in subdued silence.
One hour in I mention (yes one does talk to the sky) to a few little black puffs of clouds to push off so I don’t have to drop hatches or get my foul weather gear on. Today’s three bursts of squalls in broad daylight was good training in timing and direction of clouds to be concerned about.
I’ll be able to tell when they are a problem without looking as the breeze intensifies and then Jade will prance about like a guard dog antsy with the change of surrounds.
By the second hour into my shift, the horizon had bled eerily into the night sky and those clouds have pocketed my leading stars. I won’t action anything yet (I tell myself) there is a good chance when full moon shows it’s face it might shoo them away. I’ll wait, the moon will shed light on this scenario and all the shadows will hopefully disappear.
It’s 10.20pm - Right on cue an orange glow lifts from the horizon. Within the next hour as she rises from the east, her reflection will edge closer bringing me both light and company.
By the time I hand over to He Who Hums one last scan around and still no traffic to report, the whole sky has lifted, the clouds and stars both have dispersed. It looks like an ordinary night sky, he doesn’t know what he has missed, it’s not the time for that.
The best has happened and so I brace myself retreat down the steps riding the surges from the following sea the same way a monkey swings. I involuntary weave the straight hallway to the aft cabin, wedge myself amongst pillows to counterbalance the lean and listen out until I hear nothing more.

Monday 7th
*3am arrival in Bonsaire, the island is flat as a tack, apart from the National park on southern end. The shoreline buildings set a well lit edge to the island with tall palms (just the way I like it). I spied a square rigger called Cococabana! Like I said it’s dark, it started with C 🤣. I know I’m gonna love this island known for boating history not to mention the best diving in the world!
Goodnight… good morning and good day ! The sun is about to shed sunlight on this place!

Ok, so we've been onboard Pedro’s boat- SV Jade long enough to have a routine and our own favourite places to be comfortable at different times of the day. SV Jades feisty sail from Antigua ironed out a few glitches. Oh nothing I haven't heard before and between Super Pedro and He Who Hums I barely had time to help find a solution and crisis was averted. Murphy made sure air bubbles were in the new steering fluid so no steering for a bit until it was topped up and we all hoped that was the only problem. It took probably 5 minutes and it was only the messy sea state without steering that had me concerned for a nanosecond.
The next leg across from Guadeloupe to Dominica was perfect smooth sailing in fact I think we motored some of the way.

The Caribbean islands have massive bays and ports and you can just imagine it in the 1600-1800s with Tall ships and the like seeking and discovering /fighting to take over new islands. We all know about pirates of the Caribbean, definitely the Johnny Depp kind.
As you can imagine sailing with Pedro we get to hear stories from a wide range of topics. And after serving up BLT's for brunch yesterday I was privy as to how they managed to stop the pirates in the Caribbean .
He started with, You know those men who jumped ship became buccaneers on land as he enjoyed his bacon in his wrap. I crank my neck to peer into these heavily treed monstrous hills as we drift by visualising the hunting down, slaughtering,
salting and trading of pig meats for...I guess a "clean living". Until the mystical square riggers came into the bay and pirating the big ships sounded like a better living. The ending is history but Pedro's version, (you got it) had everything to do with the release of all the women from prisons and brothels as a distraction ... apparently it worked and family ties brought some sense of civility to the ports. I'm sure there was so much more to the story.
His voice changes tone when discussing where to stop in new anchorages. I noticed he adds a bit of pirate gruff to the discussion. Definitely short and sharp, gaining certainty as he decides and scampers across the decks outwardly discussing the options we all have. Meanwhile I look deeper at the crystal clear waters hoping to spot a treasure chest strewn before the wing span of the Frigate birds soaring overhead had my attention. Jade settles in the shade cast by the volcanic mountain that commanded these waters long before the pirates and we arrived.