It has been windy here for the past eight days - consistently around 20+ kts from the east northeast, east or east southeast. Per the weather report on the daily Cruisers Net call, these are 'Trade wind conditions' - the trade winds being the persistent winds that start in Africa and blow the width of the Atlantic.

Cruising life is very influenced by the weather. In our case, this wind creates waves. On the Exuma Sound side of Stocking Island, 6+ ft waves crash into the coral and rocky headlands, and sweep over the coral banks that lie right off the beach. Very impressive, but even more so when the tide is low, when the spent waves pour off the coral banks back into the sound. See the photo gallery for pictures of this. These 6+ ft seas, which have a short period (meaning they are close and steep) result in very rough sea conditions. Very few new arrivals, and almost no one leaving. These winds make smaller waves and chop in Elizabeth Harbor (the proper name for where we are), which can make for rolly anchoring. Because of this, almost all cruisers are anchored close to Stocking Island, which provides a wind shadow and much less rolling. In Georgetown, the wind is blowing 22 kts, but here it is around 14 kts and only the smallest of waves creating a gentle bobbing of Grace.

If we could just stay close to the Stocking Island beaches, this would be fine. But people have errands to do, and one frequent errand is to go across the harbor in our dinghies to go shopping and get water. This is always somewhat wet, but when you have dinghied under the bridge into Lake Victoria (the small pond that Georgetown surrounds) and need to come back, you will get soaked! The water is always very choppy, and I've had perhaps 5 gallons of water sloshing around in the dinghy after I've gotten back.

Laura really experienced the cruiser life this past week. She on her own dinghied to Stocking Island and explored the island, went to a water aerobics class she heard about on the morning Cruisers Net, and she and I had an extensive walk across the island to the Exuma Sound side, and then north where fewer people go. Long beaches, small coves and headlands with the waves crashing into them. Stocking Island has many paths criss-crossing it through the silver palm and sea grape trees - up to the monument, the beaches or the quiet cove by the (now abandoned) Peace and Plenty beach bar. We also spend a good amount of time sitting in the cockpit reading or snoozing. We had Tom and Luke over one night for spaghetti and a rummy card game, and went over to Faith Afloat for a rummy re-match.

Yesterday, Laura and I motored across the harbor and anchored off of the Exuma Yacht Club to make for a shorter dinghy run into Georgetown. We browsed, had lunch at a small cafe, and then her taxi came at 1:15 to take her to the airport. When I got back to Grace after doing some errands, I sat in the cockpit, and in a moment of poignancy thought 'well, I'm by myself and a single-hander again'. It has been really nice this past week with Laura, and before that with my two sons. I won't see them again for almost three months.

As I said two blog posts ago, this is as far south as Grace and I go. Tomorrow morning I raise the anchor, and along with Faith Afloat, start heading north. Destination in a few days: Spanish Wells in Eleuthera.