I, along with Tom and Luke on Faith Afloat, left Georgetown - and the Georgetown ''Cruisers' Scene", last Sunday. I call it the "Cruisers' Scene" because the atmosphere is almost like a busy summer camp for adults with boats. It is fun, but for me, a bit too much - I like things quieter, and a bit 'more Bahamian'.

Our first day's run was up the Exuma Sound to Cave Cay Cut (a cut is an opening from the sound side to the Exuma bank side). When we had come down Exuma Sound two weeks earlier, we had 20+ kt winds and 6 ft seas, pounding our way through them to Georgetown. Now the seas and wind were much calmer, so we sailed - without the motor on! Blessed quiet. We saw flying fish as we sailed along. The first time I saw them, I though they were birds skimming over the waves - and then saw them disappear into a wave after flying along for 50-75 ft. They would pass in front of Grace in 'flocks' (is that the right word for fish that fly?).

Anchoring off Cave Cay, we were again struck by the clarity of the water. The water at Georgetown was nice, and you could see maybe 10 ft down, but here we could see the bottom in 15 ft of water with perfect clarity. The next day, Monday, we sailed the sound to Black Point, on the north end of Great Guana Cay. Black Point is a typical, sleepy Bahamian town, with a couple of small grocery stores on almost empty streets. Women would sit under trees, weaving silver palm into straw market crafts they would sell in Nassau. Black Point has a sailing regatta later in the spring, and there were Bahamian sailboats in people's yards. (see pictures in my gallery). Nice place and popular with cruisers, with about two dozen boats anchored in the harbor, and a couple of beach bars where they (and we) hang out.

Tuesday, we headed up the Exuma Bank to Warderick Wells, stopping for an hour at Staniel Cay to get some diesel and water. Warderick Wells is the headquarters of the Exuma Cays Land And Sea Park. This park, about 30 miles long by 10 miles wide, is a preserve with no fishing, taking anything from the land or in any way disturbing the natural surroundings. It is pristine, and the snorkeling is amazing. Tom, Luke and I made three dives, with one a 'drift dive' where the current carries you along. Luke is very good at identifying fish, and told me we saw: two Spotted Eagle Rays, 8 ft across, Queen Trigger Fish, King Trigger Fish, Parrot Fish, French Grunt, School Fish, Nurse Sharks, Black Grouper, Needle Fish, Yellow Tail Snapper, Gray Snapper, Mutton Snapper, African Pompano, Porgy - among other fish. Adding to this, we saw a turtle (not sure what kind) and two enormous lobsters.

I also made a hike up BooBoo Hill. There is a cruisers' tradition of leaving something at the top of this hill to ask favor from the sea gods. Many cruisers have elaborate signs with their boat name, year and crew (see picture in the gallery). I left a boat card and a piece of wood from Grace, which hopefully is enough to get me favor from the sea gods.

On Thursday, we left Warderick Wells to cross the Exuma Sound to Eleuthera. The sound is over a mile deep, and the most amazing blue - something from an artist's paint box. At approximately the mid-point, Faith Afloat and I hove to, dropping sails, putting our engines in idle - and went for a swim! All I can say is it is something to see the boat's keel hovering in crystal clear water that goes down 5280 ft.

We spent Thursday Night anchored in Rock Sound on Eleuthera, and Friday at Hatchet Bay. In the evening we got together to play Rummy. Yesterday, we left Hatchet Bay, went through Current Cut (a short cut known for it's extreme tidal currents), and arrived at Spanish Wells. Today, I'll explore the island some, tomorrow we'll provision, and then at the next weather window, we'll head north 55 miles across the Northeast Providence Channel to the Abacos.