Newfoundland
05 July 2010 | Woods Island
David Nutt
This should have gone up before the other one. So it goes...
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Woods Island, Bay of Islands, Newfoundland. Arrived here midday today with a northeast wind in our teeth. We hadn't planned to stop but it seemed to make sense given wind, waves, temperature and fatigue. We left Baddeck at 5am the morning before so we would have the current help carry us out the Great Bras d'Or Channel. The fog was thick and I was uncomfortable about that and I was uncomfortable about our impending passage across the Cabot Straits. I am not used to being nervous before a passage, especially one of less than 100 miles. We had all become accustomed to them on our circumnavigation. The Atlantic, only a couple of thousand miles, no worries. But not now.
As we left the Channel the fog lifted giving reasonable visibility. The winds stayed really light and from behind. Should we set the kite? Maybe we should have left on the #1 genoa on instead of replacing it with the Yankee. And then a little wind began to fill in from the east. One by one the sails came out, the main, mizzen, Yankee and then the staysail. We would have put up more if we had had them. And the wind kept building from the east and the fog shut in. The forecast seemed to be panning out, we just hoped it didn't reached the 'gusting to 40 knots' that they added almost as an afterthought. Down came the mizzen, the boat speed increased. We were doing steady 8's and more. The first reef went in the main. It was really easy, I lay in the pilot berth and listened as the younger portion of the crew did all the work. What a crew! The wind held steady in the mid twenties and we were rolling off the miles. The fog still only gave up a few hundred feet of viz. We never did see any shipping all the way across even on the radar. As we started up the west coast of Newfoundland the sun broke through, the fog dissipated and the wind died very abruptly. There wasn't even enough to sail so we reluctantly started the engine.
By morning the wind began to build on the nose and kept on building and so we are here in the wonderful little anchorage. We met a local fellow and his wife; he grew up here as a child but was forced to move to the mainland during the resettlements. The final straw was when the school was burned, reportedly a government action, so the families all had to leave. Sounded like there was a lot of bitterness still in the air. We sat on his steps and shared a warm beer. A big part of why we came here. Not that we knew the details before today. It is a pleasure to watch the experience unfold a moment at a time. Summers are spent here on the island. He fishes a few lobster traps during their April to June season. Prices have been low the last few years and it is really hard to make ends meet. A familiar story with a different accent. We hope we can have him and his wife aboard tomorrow for a visit.
We will head in to the town of Corner Brook for some parts and reprovisioning and to await a better weather window before heading north along the coast again. But that is to be another story.
Cheers, David, Judy, et al....