Nuuk, Greenland
16 July 2010
David
July 15, 2010
Nuuk, Greenland
Our passage from Cartwright, Labrador was really good but that doesn't mean we weren't ready for a good sleep. We carried a southeast wind all the way that built from 4 or 5 knots to close to 30 by the time we arrived having given us more than 200 miles/day for the last 2 days. What we call 'Danza country'! The last day the fog descended teasing us with variable visibility. It lifted as we neared the coast to expose an iceberg to port and then one to starboard, both so massive that hitting one would have been no less catastrophic than running into a cliff.
As we made our way north the days never really ended nor began. Light hung around at the end of one day and became the next with never a need for the headlamp to read the book. My body never really knows what time it is and it is easy to stay up too late, miss meals and have a sense of having misplaced a part of the day.
We made our way into Nuuk via the Nordlob pass which is the way most of the big ship come and go and sure enough as soon as we were in the middle of it all several ships were coming and going. At that point we were down to a double reef in the main and just the staysail forward and still going 9 and 10 knots. We rounded up just outside the harbor and pulled it all down and soaked in behind one of the big boys. Rounding the commercial pier we saw two yachts tied to a barge and were welcomed by the Swedish boat Ariel IV to tie along side. They had arrived 5 hours earlier and knew how glad we were to be in.
In this small world of boats out here Ariel had circumnavigated starting the year before we did and we have many cruising friends in common. They are now on their way to Alaska via the Northwest Passage.
Nuuk is the commercial hub of Greenland with the container dock buzzing with cranes, forklifts and trucks. The harbor is dirty with many dying fishing boats laying ahead of us. There are a multitude of small outboards rafted together at the head of the harbor some of which go out at full speed and soon return at the same rate. Where they go I haven't a clue.
But the people are really friendly and helpful and as in most of the world speak English without missing a beat. Internet is in the town and every cell phone in the world works here except those from America.
In a few days we will start working our way north along the coast headed to Disko Bay.