Ilulissat to Maniitsoq
05 August 2010
David Nutt
Life in Greenland is not all fun in the sun, the glaciers and the spectacular scenery. We left Ilulissiat in the sun after a fantastic collective dinner with our Swedish friends on Ariel IV. It was sad to say goodbye to them as the head towards the Northwest Passage and say goodbye to the icefjord as we wandered in awe towards Aasiaat and points south. We had some good sailing early in the day and by evening we decided to keep on heading south. The clouds thickened and the winds diminished.
We motor sailed and received a forecast from the Greenland radio of impending strong southerlies. It would be easier in many places to tie up to the cliffs than to find a place to anchor but we were fortunate to find a little spot in the first cove on the south side of a small fjord called Iserquk (66°07.1'N 053°38.2'W). We set our anchor with the last breath of a northerly zephyr and a sigh of relief. 60 seconds later Danza swung 180° and five days of southerlies commenced. It blew up to 30 knots in our nice little cove and who knows how much outside leaving us with few options. At one point the anchor did drag and it took some time to get the massive cluster of grass, weed and kelp off it so we could re-anchor.
Although the fjord is uninhabited the waters are fished by local fishermen who took the opportunity of Danza to sell two incredible still twitching salmon. Some good hikes were made ashore and small projects and books were read aboard with no end to the scrabble and cribbage games.
After several days we had a lull in the gale and thought we could make a few miles south but they turned out to be hard earned. It took us the better part of a day to make 25 miles to the anchorage in Agpamiut in Hamborgersund. We spent several days there as well with winds pushing towards gale force.
Hamborersund is one of the many most spectacular places on the west coast of Greenland. Perhaps it is better not to rate them but to simply enjoy them for their own beauty. The glaciers with skiable snow still in the shadows, the peaks tearing the clouds to shreads, and because of the heavy rains we had the streams became alive painting every imaginable little valley painting the hills and mountains with white streaks. It leaves little room for one's breath at times. Utterly astounding.
And yesterday we made a short run to Maniitsoq where we will re-provision, do a few repairs before heading to Nuuk and with a favorable weather window head back across the Davis Straits to Newfoundland.