We have been in Nuuk for a week now, getting a feel for the town and the harbour. All the people are exceptionally friendly and easy to smile and laugh, particularly the Greenlanders. It is their nature and culture to work together. On first impressions, the towns we have visited have seemed poor compared to Western ideals, however, having been part of the environment for a while and having talked to the local Greenlanders, it is obvious that they are rich on life. They are still intimately entwined with their environment and nature, only taking what they need to survive and leaving the rest for the future. Hunting is a fact of life here. Families go out in the dories and fish or they take the rifle and hunt for seal, caribou and musk ox. It is currently the hunting season (ends 30 September) so groups are going out for weekends to hunt caribou and musk ox, sharing it among the hunters and their families, stocking their freezers to see them through until Christmas at least. There are no roads; everything is done by boat, so a successful weekends hunt will involve stalking the animals then cutting up the carcass to maximise every part of it (nothing is wasted). Finally, they have to carry it out to their camp and load it in their boat, returning to the town to share it out. It is hard work but it is part of their history and very much still a part of their lifestyle. Yesterday we watched a larger fishing boat go out in the morning, returning this morning. We watched as the crew loaded plastic bags with large hunks of whale meat (they hunt Minke, Fin and Pilot whales plus Narwhal). They put this into a dorie which then transported it to the harbour slip where it was taken off for processing. There are quite a few boats here which still have the whale harpoons on the bow. It is no place to be prissy about this. Whale and seal are what the Greenlanders eat. They eat it all, particularly the fat which takes some chewing but from where they get their vitamins. The Greenlanders have one of the lowest rates of cardiovascular disease in the world. To catch a whale here is done reverently, the whale is traditionally a respected being. If a Greenlander dies in the process of catching a whale, it is considered to be a fair balance. Today Sunday many boats returned with the skinned and gralloched carcasses of reindeer (caribou) slung on their foredecks; a successful weekend – Santa’s Xmas deliveries maybe a bit slower this year!

Supermarket food is very expensive as it has to be shipped in from Denmark. There is no VAT here but transport and travel costs are high. It is not that many years ago that remoter towns only got 2 supply ships a year! Nuuk being the capital is expensive to live in but most of the accommodation has running water inside. In the remoter towns, this is not always so and you will see small buildings on the road side from where they go and collect fresh water. Consider that when you next clean your teeth and leave the tap running or take 2 showers in a day. The water is not free, they have to pay for it.

Monday we head North to Maniitsoq, the fjords surrounding it for ski potential and then on to Sisimiut. Today has been a glorious day with fantastic clear air allowing awesome views. However, the last 3 days have been damp and foggy; so generally 1 good day in 3 or 4. However, the colder weather is expected later this month. Once the ground temperature cools in balance with the sea (3 degrees C) there should be less fog and better, clearer days. Obviously, the days are getting shorter but it is still light at 8.30pm. Lots to look forward to.