22 June 2021 | Porticello, Lipari - Aeolian Islands (position: 38 30.615'N 14 57.962'E)
Lipari is the largest of the Aeolian archipelago. It's also the busiest and most diverse island with a long history of settlement and trade and happens to be the closest island to Volcano so naturally was next on our list to visit.
Lipari has provided us with something totally different compared to the island of Volcano as we did yet another circumnavigation enjoying the beauty and unspoilt ruggedness of the western side seeing mountains that tumble straight into the sea and several ridges that look precariously like they may collapse at any minute.
The eastern side provided the main town of Lipari and its attractive harbour and a historic castle-citadel calling out to be visited and further along, hillsides scattered with several smaller villages. The biggest and most noteworthy observation was to see the huge mountainside with chunks taken out of it, coated in white powder with dozens of buildings near the shoreline all now derelict due to pumice and obsidian mining that was huge business in its day being stopped. In 2005 UNESCO World Heritage flagged it as a concern and it should have stopped but instead it continued on for another two years, finally being shut down by the police in 2007.
derelict pumice, obsidian buildings and a damaged loading pier
The seabed in this area has also been destroyed by the years of accumulated pumice sediment turning the area into a piercing aquamarine colour which made for great swimming in crystal clear water and an excellent anchorage with good holding.
the annual 'dug in anchor' photo and...
a look at Flirtie's bottom - International Micro 350 applied 2 years ago and still working well - we are pleased.
We noticed a small current running along the coastline which helped flatten out the sea and made for a few swell free nights. However it's a dusty location especially when the wind comes from the mountainside sending clouds of white powder into the air. Flirtie has never felt and looked so dusty.
This past week the weather has turned really hot, humid and extremely hazy. There's an eerie feel and impossible to see the other islands nearby. We're also experiencing the occasional squally wind that comes out of nowhere from around 8pm that provides temporary relief from the intense heat. You could almost set your watch by it. We wonder if this is normal or whether there is in fact an Aeolian triangle?
Total distance from Vulcano to Lipari (excl. island tour): 6.2 nautical miles
Total distance this season: 199.17 nautical mile