the beautiful islet of Koukoumitsa

The Ambracian Gulf is a surprisingly large area, approximately 25 miles long by 9 miles wide and totally surrounded by mountains. It's one of the largest enclosed gulfs in Greece and of significant ecological importance to the area with the towns of Preveza, Amphilochia and Vonitsa on its shores.

The gulf is quite shallow and its northern shore broken by numerous marshes, large parts of which form an estuary system. Two rivers drain into it which makes it warmer and less salty than the Ionian. There are also numerous fish farms throughout which has created an environment rich in wildlife.

Our destination was the islet of Koukoumitsa, ten miles southeast of Preveza in the bay of Ormos Vontisa. Our route took us parallel with several fish farms where we suddenly spotted a large patch of water alive with hundreds of small splashes. A shoal of fish were being driven to the surface by a pod of dolphins that were working together in unison. The frenzy of activity caused many birds to join the area as they nose-dived into the mix to take a share of the meal on offer.


the fight for food is on!

A short while later the islet came into view and we headed down it's eastern shore to anchor off. As we took in our surroundings, we immediately fell in love with the area. A canopy of pine trees provided shade all around the island, the light breeze sent a pine aroma across the anchorage. At the southern end, a small church faced out towards Vontisa and the sea. The island was linked to the mainland by a beautifully constructed bridge that lead onto the long beach and towards the town of Vontisa which was overlooked by the Venetian castle on the hill above. It was all very picturesque.


the bridge linking the mainland to the island

The island's shoreline was dotted with hundreds of sea urchins. A circular path followed along it's shore with an occasional park bench to stop and sit on to take in the views. We had the place to ourselves on more than one occasion.


a circular path lead around the island


a small, humble church


looking over to the anchorage

The anchorage remained calm and was protected from the NW wind. We frequently heard air being expelled from a turtle before it took in a breath and submerged. We never actually saw him but the disturbed rings formed at the surface gave his location away.

Vontisa town was just a twenty minute walk away across the bridge where cows were roaming freely.


a random grazing cow

A rough pathway followed alongside the stretch of beach which lead us to the waterfront with many tavernas and bars. There was a distinct lack of visitors which we can only summise was due to the uncompleted works being done all along the harbour wall that would otherwise be full of moored yachts. We certainly felt for the many businesses as they most likely rely on passing yachts and tourists.


Vonitsa waterfront with the Venetian castle behind

A walk through pine covered slopes and up steps lead the way to the castle on the hill above the town. Within the ramparts there were a few ruined buildings. One had been renovated and converted to a information centre, the walls provided a detailed history of the castles occupation over the eras and the various building phases in-between. Ultimately the castle ended up in the hands of the Venetians.


outer walls standing 10-12m high


behind the ramparts, more defensive ramparts with a number of holes for arrows and cannons


excellent views across to Koukomitsa and across the gulf

We could have easily stayed longer in this beautiful location. Even the sun setting behind the trees was spectacular to watch.

Total distance this season: 751.632 nautical miles