Another day, another sandy anchorage and what a gem of a place this one is! Located on the south east corner of the island of Vulcano barely 10 miles away from Porticello, Spaggia di Cannitello has the most beautiful landscape with vineyards on the hillside, a small beach with the classic black sand of Vulcano and a beach bar. At first glance, we didn't notice the bar as it's virtually camouflaged hidden under a canopy of trees. It was the line of popular flags gently fluttering in the breeze that gave it away. Bruce noted a lone pole missing a flag... we can only assume the UK flag which has always been part of what we deem the popular set comprising of French, Spanish, Dutch, German, Italian and American.





The anchorage was an absolute delight with just a steady influx of boats arriving and departing throughout the day and by the evenings we were the only ones remaining to enjoy this peaceful, tranquil and beautiful spot. The only exception was on the Saturday night when over the course of a few hours we were joined by the arrival of many charter boats having departed from Portorosa and Capo d'Orlando where both yachts and cataramarans can be chartered on Sicily's northern coast. We counted at least 35 before concluding that the anchorage was going to be very full overnight.

We received a really warm and friendly welcome from the owners of the beach bar 'Punta Bandiera' when we arrived from our short row ashore. They were also quick to point out that they have a B&B, 'Villa Saracina' located more central to the main town of Porto di Levante and pointed out a restaurant, 'Ristorante u Bagghiu' at the top of the hill, just a short walk up a relatively steep but very dusty track. Bookings can be taken by phone on 3385894435 or 3393962704.


Bruce enjoying the view of the anchorage with Sicily in the background

The beer at the bar was expensive but the views were fabulous and we could get a strong phone and wifi signal. From the boat the signal was pretty sketchy but we did manage to keep up with the European football championship final. Even if we hadn't we would have found out the following day when an Italian yacht arrived and spotted that we were a UK flagged vessel and proceeded to get on his paddle board having removed his Italian flag from his yacht and then paddled over and started singing and waving his flag just by us, all in good fun.


three cheerful Italians celebrating the win

Spaggia di Cannitello is yet another beautiful Aeolian anchorage.

Total distance from Porticello to Vulcano, Spaggia di Cannitello: 8.96 nautical miles
Total distance this season: 279.40 nautical miles

Praia di Vinci anchorage

Porticello anchorage is now becoming our 'go to' anchorage when we want space to anchor and with a sandy seabed it guarantees a dug in anchor every time. Given the number of nights that we've now spent at Porticello, 75% have been swell free with the only disturbance coming from the many vessels departing from Lipari's port heading to the islands of Salina and Panerea.

With the prevailing wind and swell coming from the NW the most protected anchorages are found along the southern/eastern sides of the islands however the weather switched to the northeast giving us the opportunity to visit another anchorage but on the southern side. This time we anchored off the beach of Praia di Vinci, located near Punta Crepazza. The narrow, pebbly beach is only accessible by boat. It's a scenic location dominated by a couple of impressive rock pinnacles, crystal clear water with a wonderful panorama over to Vulcano. This anchorage has become our favourite natural and geologically stunning anchorage so far and it was certainly worth the extra effort of finding a shallower spot to be surrounded by the natural beauty of the place.


Praia di Vinci beach


looking over to the island of Vulcano

It's another highlight added to the growing list of highlights. We would have stayed longer but one afternoon the cursed swell arrived out of nowhere... well from miles away and found us so needless to say we departed to return back to our 'go to' anchorage, Porticello after failing to find a suitable spot at nearby Porto di Levante on Vulcano and Portinente near Lipari's citadel.

Total distance from Porticello to Praia di Vinci: 5.72 nautical miles
Total distance this season: 270.44 nautical miles

view of Santa Marina anchorage

Our time in Porto Pignatro Marina was up around lunchtime which gave us all afternoon to motor over to the island of Salina located NW of Lipari. With the haze lifted the visibility was excellent which allowed us finally to see clearly the islands of Panerea and Stromboli as we pottered our way up Lipari's coastline. Crossing the channel between Lipari and Salina we could even see the island of Filicudi in the distance.

Salina is identifiable by its twin peaks formed from two extinct volcano cones. It's also the tallest island of the archipelago with the most fertile soil where capers and malvasia grapevines grow. It's famous for its Malvasia wine and grappa and for the salt lagoon at Lingua which is where historically Salina takes its name. More recently the island is regarded as having the most tasty Granitas in the whole of Sicily and we plan to find out if this is true. A Granita is a semi-frozen dessert made from sugar, water and various flavourings. Originally from Sicily, it is available throughout Italy in varying forms. It is related to sorbet and Italian ice; however, in most of Sicily, it has a smoother, more crystalline texture.

Based on the current weather forecast the best anchorage to allow us to visit, see and taste these delights was on the eastern side near to the main port of Santa Marina. The anchorage here offered us really good protection from the northerly and westerly winds as well as the swell but the seabed was another matter because it was predominantly rock and weed. Additionally the depth varied from a reasonable 8m to 40m+ within a couple of boat lengths. We eventually found a spot in 15m. It wasn't ideal as it was deeper than we would have liked and shelved off pretty quickly within two lengths of Flirtie but with the anchor set in we were content that we weren't going anywhere.

We could leave the dinghy safely ashore on a tiny beach which allowed easy access to the picturesque village of Santa Marina with its elegant townhouses and long promenade that followed the pebble beaches all along the seafront. One row back and running parallel to the shore we meandered the narrow pedestrian main street with numerous shops selling everything from groceries and bread to boutique and touristic shops.


Santa Marina


water is delivered to all of the Aeolian islands by tanker

We could have walked to the small hamlet of Lingua just 3km in the opposite direction but took the dinghy instead since it was along the main road and it was pretty hot and humid. With its long waterfront, narrow beach and tiny cluster of trattorias on the shore we thought it to be more attractive than Santa Marina itself.


the lighthouse and salt lagoon at Lingua


the picturesque fishing village of Lingua


colourful boats with the island of Lipari in the background


the Granita at 'da Alfredo' was delicious and reasonably priced too. Bruce finished his granita and was more than ready to try a Pane Cunzato (a huge round of grilled bread piled with various toppings) also very popular here too


lol, a light lunch - Pane Cunzato and a tuna salad

We were lucky enough to spend several nights on Salina before Aeolus, the wind god sent over (through the night) a few hours of intense gusts which caused havoc as many yachts dragged anchor. It was bedlam for quite a while and it became necessary for us to be on anchor watch until the early hours of the morning. Unfortunately as dawn arrived the gusts returned and we had visions of us also dragging. This had happened to a charter boat during the night. At the time, the man was sleeping on deck and despite our shouting he was oblivious to his situation as he drifted past us. Our torch in his face eventually woke him and shocked him into action. The forecast suggested that the conditions weren't going to improve a great deal that day so with that in mind we decided to enjoy a cracking hours sail back to Lipari to anchor again in Porticello, all of 5.6 miles away.

This is our favourite island so far being so green and totally unspoilt which is really surprising given the amount of tourists that visit each year.

Total distance from Lipari, Porto Pignatro Marina to Salina, Santa Marina: 9.20 nautical miles
Total distance this season: 264.72 nautical miles