The adventures of Yacht Flirtie

07 July 2021 | Lipari, Praia di Vinci - Aeolian Islands (position: 38 26.417'N 14 56.978'E)
30 June 2021 | Salina, Santa Marina - Aeolian Islands (position: 38 33. 071'N 14 52.208'E)
29 June 2021 | Lipari, Porto Pignatro Marina (position: 38 28.677'N 14 57.816'E)
27 June 2021 | Porticello, Lipari - Aeolian Islands (position: 38 30.636'N 14 57.963'E)
25 June 2021 | Caletta dei Zimmari, Panerea - Aeolian Islands (position: 38 37.600'N 15 03.993'E)
22 June 2021 | Porticello, Lipari - Aeolian Islands (position: 38 30.615'N 14 57.962'E)
16 June 2021 | Porto di Ponente, Vulcano - Aeolian Islands (position:38 25.221'N 14 57.182'E)
15 June 2021 | Milazzo (position: 38 13.217'N 15 14.710'E)
13 June 2021 | Taormina (position: 37 50.794'N 15 17.433'E)
12 June 2021 | Monte Pergola, Augusta (position: 37 14.234'N 15 14.010'E)
06 June 2021 | Siracusa anchorage (position: 37 03.604''N 15 16.734'E)
04 June 2021 | Portopalo (position: 36 40.140'N 15 06.726'E)
02 June 2021 | Sicily, Marina di Ragusa (position: 36 46.863'N 14 32.701'E)
28 May 2021 | Sicily, Marina di Ragusa (position: 36 46.863'N 14 32.701'E)
25 April 2021 | Sicily, Marina di Ragusa (position: 36 46.863'N 14 32.701'E)
15 April 2021 | Sicily, Marina di Ragusa (position: 36 46.863'N 14 32.701'E)
05 April 2021 | Sicily, Marina di Ragusa (position: 36 46.863'N 14 32.701'E)
20 February 2021 | Sicily, Marina di Ragusa (position: 36 46.863'N 14 32.701'E)
07 February 2021 | Sicily, Marina di Ragusa (position: 36 46.863'N 14 32.701'E)
03 February 2021 | Sicily, Marina di Ragusa (position: 36 46.863'N 14 32.701'E)

Lipari, Porticello to Praia di Vinci beach

07 July 2021 | Lipari, Praia di Vinci - Aeolian Islands (position: 38 26.417'N 14 56.978'E)
Bruce & Caroline Trott
Praia di Vinci anchorage

Porticello anchorage is now becoming our 'go to' anchorage when we want space to anchor and with a sandy seabed it guarantees a dug in anchor every time. Given the number of nights that we've now spent at Porticello, 75% have been swell free with the only disturbance coming from the many vessels departing from Lipari's port heading to the islands of Salina and Panerea.

With the prevailing wind and swell coming from the NW the most protected anchorages are found along the southern/eastern sides of the islands however the weather switched to the northeast giving us the opportunity to visit another anchorage but on the southern side. This time we anchored off the beach of Praia di Vinci, located near Punta Crepazza. The narrow, pebbly beach is only accessible by boat. It's a scenic location dominated by a couple of impressive rock pinnacles, crystal clear water with a wonderful panorama over to Vulcano. This anchorage has become our favourite natural and geologically stunning anchorage so far and it was certainly worth the extra effort of finding a shallower spot to be surrounded by the natural beauty of the place.

Praia di Vinci beach

looking over to the island of Vulcano

It's another highlight added to the growing list of highlights. We would have stayed longer but one afternoon the cursed swell arrived out of nowhere... well from miles away and found us so needless to say we departed to return back to our 'go to' anchorage, Porticello after failing to find a suitable spot at nearby Porto di Levante on Vulcano and Portinente near Lipari's citadel.

Total distance from Porticello to Praia di Vinci: 5.72 nautical miles
Total distance this season: 270.44 nautical miles

Lipari to Salina, Aeolian Islands

30 June 2021 | Salina, Santa Marina - Aeolian Islands (position: 38 33. 071'N 14 52.208'E)
Bruce & Caroline Trott
view of Santa Marina anchorage

Our time in Porto Pignatro Marina was up around lunchtime which gave us all afternoon to motor over to the island of Salina located NW of Lipari. With the haze lifted the visibility was excellent which allowed us finally to see clearly the islands of Panerea and Stromboli as we pottered our way up Lipari's coastline. Crossing the channel between Lipari and Salina we could even see the island of Filicudi in the distance.

Salina is identifiable by its twin peaks formed from two extinct volcano cones. It's also the tallest island of the archipelago with the most fertile soil where capers and malvasia grapevines grow. It's famous for its Malvasia wine and grappa and for the salt lagoon at Lingua which is where historically Salina takes its name. More recently the island is regarded as having the most tasty Granitas in the whole of Sicily and we plan to find out if this is true. A Granita is a semi-frozen dessert made from sugar, water and various flavourings. Originally from Sicily, it is available throughout Italy in varying forms. It is related to sorbet and Italian ice; however, in most of Sicily, it has a smoother, more crystalline texture.

Based on the current weather forecast the best anchorage to allow us to visit, see and taste these delights was on the eastern side near to the main port of Santa Marina. The anchorage here offered us really good protection from the northerly and westerly winds as well as the swell but the seabed was another matter because it was predominantly rock and weed. Additionally the depth varied from a reasonable 8m to 40m+ within a couple of boat lengths. We eventually found a spot in 15m. It wasn't ideal as it was deeper than we would have liked and shelved off pretty quickly within two lengths of Flirtie but with the anchor set in we were content that we weren't going anywhere.

We could leave the dinghy safely ashore on a tiny beach which allowed easy access to the picturesque village of Santa Marina with its elegant townhouses and long promenade that followed the pebble beaches all along the seafront. One row back and running parallel to the shore we meandered the narrow pedestrian main street with numerous shops selling everything from groceries and bread to boutique and touristic shops.

Santa Marina

water is delivered to all of the Aeolian islands by tanker

We could have walked to the small hamlet of Lingua just 3km in the opposite direction but took the dinghy instead since it was along the main road and it was pretty hot and humid. With its long waterfront, narrow beach and tiny cluster of trattorias on the shore we thought it to be more attractive than Santa Marina itself.

the lighthouse and salt lagoon at Lingua

the picturesque fishing village of Lingua

colourful boats with the island of Lipari in the background

the Granita at 'da Alfredo' was delicious and reasonably priced too. Bruce finished his granita and was more than ready to try a Pane Cunzato (a huge round of grilled bread piled with various toppings) also very popular here too

lol, a light lunch - Pane Cunzato and a tuna salad

We were lucky enough to spend several nights on Salina before Aeolus, the wind god sent over (through the night) a few hours of intense gusts which caused havoc as many yachts dragged anchor. It was bedlam for quite a while and it became necessary for us to be on anchor watch until the early hours of the morning. Unfortunately as dawn arrived the gusts returned and we had visions of us also dragging. This had happened to a charter boat during the night. At the time, the man was sleeping on deck and despite our shouting he was oblivious to his situation as he drifted past us. Our torch in his face eventually woke him and shocked him into action. The forecast suggested that the conditions weren't going to improve a great deal that day so with that in mind we decided to enjoy a cracking hours sail back to Lipari to anchor again in Porticello, all of 5.6 miles away.

This is our favourite island so far being so green and totally unspoilt which is really surprising given the amount of tourists that visit each year.

Total distance from Lipari, Porto Pignatro Marina to Salina, Santa Marina: 9.20 nautical miles
Total distance this season: 264.72 nautical miles

Lipari - a visit to the citadel

29 June 2021 | Lipari, Porto Pignatro Marina (position: 38 28.677'N 14 57.816'E)
Bruce & Caroline Trott
the attractive citadel... from the sea

Being back on Lipari has given us the chance to visit the citadel. Unfortunately we just couldn't find a suitable anchorage where we could leave Flirtie safely for the day. Nearby anchorages were either too deep because of the recently installed mooring fields or too close to the shore, too rocky or suffered badly from ferry wash so we spent a night in the marina at Porto Pignatro, tucked up behind the breakwater. At 100 euros, the night didn't come cheap when we found out the start of high season pricing started today :-(, however there are advantages in paying for a night as it focused the mind on the time available and with the countdown started it certainly wasn't wasted. It allowed us reprovision, manually wash some clothes, dispose of rubbish and spend some time meandering in Lipari town and around the citadel.

Lipari town is split into upper and lower sections. The shops, cafes, bars and restaurants line a pedestrianised main street with booths and ticket touter's selling island tours. Then there's the historic upper section - the citadel, protected by the sturdy and impressive walls where virtually everything of historic interest resides from dilapidated ruins of several baroque churches to numerous excavations which have uncovered many periods of civilisation from prehistoric through to Phoenician, Greek, Carthaginian, Roman, Byzantine, Norman and Spanish. It seems that everyone has been here! The excavations have uncovered a continuous record covering almost 2,000 years and a unique sequence that has allowed archaeologists to date other Mediterranean cultures. The excavation of 3000 tombs from around the island were of particular interest.

inside the grounds of the citadel

tombs were laid in a North-South direction with the corpses head to the South. Materials and styles varied over the centuries

a small amphitheatre

Total distance from Lipari, Porticello to Lipari, Porto Pignatro Marina: 5.1 nautical miles
Total distance this season: 255.52 nautical miles
Vessel Name: Yacht Flirtie
Vessel Make/Model: Trident Voyager 40
Hailing Port: Dartmouth, UK
Crew: Bruce and Caroline Trott
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Yacht Flirtie's Photos - Roche Bernard, La Vilaine River 2012
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Added 3 December 2012

Yacht Flirtie

Who: Bruce and Caroline Trott
Port: Dartmouth, UK

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