[photo: the aft cabin has been converted to a "garage" where there is a bit too much stuff and weight, but that is cruising in a smaller boat.]

Day 28: Tue 8 Apr 08

It was an interesting day: we awoke and ignored the weather forecasts on the SSB for once, then set about some catching up. I washed off the boat since they assess a $7 fee per day for water usage, whether you use it or not. Due to our conservation measures, we had only used one half of our three tanks (about 14 gallons) in the past four days, so we really did not "need" much water.

We shared a taxi ride with the Canadian men in the adjacent sailboat to Atlantis on Paradise Island. Even if you are not normally impressed with glitz, it was a pretty nice place to stroll. The portion of the aquarium viewable by any non=paying visitors was quite impressive, but the majority of it was viewable only by purchasing a special pass for $70 per couple. Having heard from many that it was worth it, we forked up the dough (actually, the Visa card) and entered. There were some magnificent specimens inside, notably a few Manta rays with wingspans over 12 feet. There were also some sawfish exceeding 14 feet in length, plus many exotic species in great numbers. In the final analysis, though, we have seen far better at US aquaria.

To give you an idea of the expense of the resort, the dockage rates range up to $7 per foot of boat length. That would be over $240 per night for us = and they are not supplying a room or maid service, just a place to put your boat!!!

We wandered about for another hour or so and decided we had enough. We took a taxi back to the base of the bridges = a place called Potters Cay. There we found all the shacks that serve freshly prepared seafood and sell fresh produce and some seafood, too. It was pretty early for them, so we were told to come back later.

The local buses run up and down (east and west) the island for $1 per person per ride. We took the bus to the straw market near the cruise ships. It was exactly as you might expect, overpriced stuff marketed to tourists. Fortunately, the "come=ons" by the vendors was not too aggressive, but there was nothing we wanted or needed there. We looked in vain for a local (non=tourist) place to grab a bite for lunch, so we hailed a bus back to Potters Cay.

By this time, many vendors were open, so we strolled around. The one run by Racquel caught my eye since a dock mate had recommended her conch fritters. I ordered conch fritters and the reply was they were not ready yet. I wasn't sure what "yet" implied and did not ask, so I said we would start with a conch salad and a coke. Without even asking us, she knew that we would prefer a cold soda, so she summoned her (for lack of a better word) lackey, handed him some bills and told him to fetch some ice.

For the next 20 minutes, we sipped our warm coke from the can and watched as she (alone in the shack) did essentially nothing. I was prompted by Diane to inquire about our lunch, when Racquel said, "Hear that, mon? They be readying the conch." I looked around the side of the shack and two men were laboring: one using a hatchet to open a slit in the conch shell in the right spot, and the other wielding a sharp knife to cut loose the animal from the shell, which was deftly removed with a flick of the knife.

I did not stay to watch the cleaning process, though I should have. Instead, I returned to the front of the shack where I saw Racquel take a green bell pepper and finely dice one half. She then diced a tomato and a short stalk of celery. When she reached into the basket, she found she had no onions, so the lackey was summoned from his Guinness beer and sent to retrieve an onion from a produce vendor nearby.

Meanwhile, she minced the raw conch. When the onion was finally in hand, she diced that and mixed it all together in a serving bowl. She asked if we wanted hot pepper and I said a little. The amount she diced must have been one=quarter teaspoon, but the final result was still enough heat for us. She completed it by taking a fresh lime, orange, and lemon and squeezed the fresh juice over the top. There may be an optimal time for the conch to be in contact with the citric acid, but it was not at all tough. That is how ceviche is made; the acid converts the proteins somewhat like heat does in conventional cooking.

Whatever the case, it was delicious. Part way through our shared meal, Diane wondered what was happening to our conch fritter order. I got up to ask and accidentally said what might be considered rude. With a smile on my face I asked if there would be conch fritters anytime today. Racquel said, "Oh, yes, today, but not yet." That's life in the islands. We realized we were not getting any fritters there anytime soon, so we paid our bill and moved on.

Another bus ride back to the marina street where we walked to the large marketplace across the road. I got a few minor hardware items and we purchased a few bottle of Bahamian rum. The marina where we are staying (with no disrespect to the folks who recommended it) is in a state or near shambles at this time during renovations. The rates are reasonable for Nassau, we understand, and it is across from all the normal stores a cruiser would need, so that has been a plus.

I was warm from all the walking, so I gathered my things for a shower and some time at (and in) the pool. Diane elected to stay aboard with Clyde. I found our Canadian buddies at the pool and we chatted about life, the universe, and everything (a book tile by the late Douglas Adams, by the way). They were invited back to our boat for appetizers and drinks and that worked well except that Diane was napping when we arrived.

To her great credit, she awoke almost cheerfully and elected to make a delicious platter of nachos while I fixed beverages. The conversation was great, mostly revolving around sailing and the cultural differences between Canada and the USA.

Mike and Brad decided it was time to go to dinner ashore in commemoration of Brad's last evening before flying back to the still frigid north. Diane had decided earlier to decline my offer to dine ashore, and instead fixed a delicious penne pasta with meat sauce dinner. I offered to clean up everything and she read before an early bedtime.

Clyde went up on deck just before dusk and the female cat two boats down saw him, and continued to watch him intently. I could tell by observing Clyde that he did not see her during the entire 20 minutes they were topside at the same time. What a clueless male!

Tomorrow, we should depart before 1000 or so, weather permitting. I intend to listen to the early SSB forecast, then take the laptop ashore (working well now, except for the malfunctioning keys) and do another blog update and weather check before we depart for the more isolated Exumas. We will need to top off our fuel somewhere near here, but not exactly here, due to the renovations.

If all goes well, it will be a reasonably short day (less than 8 hours) to our next anchorage. It will likely be remote, without any facilities for quite a while. Nothing will get any cheaper or more available as we head south from here, except (we hope) beautiful water, people, and a fabulous experience.

Day 29: Wed 9 Apr 08

Up early to Starbucks for a coffee, muffin, and Internet connection. We will be departing for the Exumas this morning and understand that we may not have Internet again for at least a week or more. So, don't worry and just rest your weary eyes from my long prose until the next chapter is posted!