Photo: Pithagorian, Samos.
After clearing out of Turkey in Datcha, with a light north easterly wind we hoisted the sails and sailed 15nm to Panormitis, Symi Island, Greece. Three anchorages and two countries in one day, it’s a record for us. Panormitis is dominated by a large monastery on one side and a windmill on the opposite side of the bay. We were ashore by 07:15 Tuesday 17th June, waiting for the bus to Symi to clear into Greece. The bus arrived and the guy driving told us we would need two buses, he dropped us off 30minutes later and told us he would pick us up again at 14:30 from the same place, we were to get the yellow bus into Symi. When the yellow bus arrived, the driver from the first bus returned and explained who we were and that he would pick us up later. Symi town is a U shaped harbour, busy but quaint at the same time. We went to Immigration, Customs and Port Police, completed in an hour and were then free to enjoy the town. After getting our phone and internet sorted, we did some grocery shopping and had lunch before getting the yellow bus. The driver of the Panormitis bus was waiting for us and we enjoyed the very scenic ride back to the anchorage. In the evening we went for a walk around the shoreline, visited the windmill, if this is typical of the Greek Islands we love it already. Later in the evening, after dark, we heard shouting in French, going on deck we saw two French flagged yachts who had been in the harbour longer than us, motoring around trying to re-anchor. They took about an hour, disturbed the whole bay and almost hit several other yachts before they were finally re-anchored and settled.
The next morning, Wednesday 18th June, we had the anchor up at 06:15 and motored all the way to Kos harbour, refueling on the way in. Another first for us and Dol on this trip, we passed a submarine motoring on the surface. Kos is home to the Kos Lettuce, Hippocrates and the Hippocratic Oath. We anchored outside the marina, alongside the old fort. Late afternoon we went for a walk along the waterfront to the fort and had dinner at one of the taverna’s. Kos is a tourist island and there were many bright orange shirts walking to the tavernas to watch Holland play Australia in the football world cup. We could hear their cheers as Holland scored when we were back on the boat in the anchorage.
We aim to get further north tomorrow and then start to cruise the islands going south, all the advice we have had and read states to get as far north as you want to go and use the Meltimi winds, prevalent in July and August, to zig zag the islands going south and west.
Thursday we motored to Leros, anchoring in Xerokampos bay. A lovely sheltered bay with three taverna’s ashore. We went to Alona for dinner and were entertained by their 8mth old Newfoundland puppy. Friday saw us again up early and travelling 40nm to Samos, two great sails along the way with Dol bowling along at 7.5 – 8 knots. As we arrived into Pithagorian, named in honour of Pythagoras who was born on Samos, we spotted a familiar boat, our kiwi friends Paul and Gloria on Scallywag. Samos is the furthest north we intend to go this year. Pithagorian is a delightful, small port, popular with tourists as evidenced by the many tavernas and shops; it also has a small castle and old church. Walking around the town, we found a fresh fruit and vege store and several ‘supermarkets’, allowing us to replenish supplies. We cleared in and out with the Port Police and had our transit logged stamped, and then went to dinner with Paul and Gloria Scallywag, Gloria’s daughter, Melanie, and her fiancé, Isaac. The following day we left and anchored in Marathakambos. On the way we stopped at a small cove for lunch and swims, we are enjoying the cool, clear water. Monday morning, Paul stayed to watch the boats as it was blowing 20+ knots as the rest of us walked 5km up the hill to the main town. We are enjoying shopping at bakeries for fresh bread and butchers for our meat; they freshly mince the beef and cut the steak or chops to any thickness you request. We stayed in Marathakambos for 4 days while some stronger winds blew through before leaving on Thursday 26th June and motor sailing 18nm to Osmos Fournoi, Fournoi Island. Crossing to Fournoi was the first time in Turkey or Greece we have come across fishing nets since leaving Asia.
As we anchored in the bay, we heard a whistle from ashore, looked up to see the Port Captain waving us further across the bay towards the cliffs. Anxious not to be in too shallow water or too near the cliffs, we re-anchored, only to be asked again to move. Getting frustrated, Brian jumped in the dinghy and went to talk to the Port Captain to see what his concerns were; we did not think we were obstructing the fishing boats. On his return, having checked in at the same time, Brian explained a large ferry was due at 19:00 and the Port Captain was concerned it may touch us, fair enough, we moved again and found a good spot. At 19:00 a large ferry did arrive and we may have been a bit close previously. We spent 2 days in the bay, visited the small town, walked around the headlands and watched a local sports competition, a really nice stop.
With the winds due to pick up and turn north, we upped anchor and had a great morning sailing 22nm down to Kampos Bay, Patmos Island with Paul and Gloria Scallywag. We left Fournoi with a reef in the main and full Yankee, shook the reef out, then changed to the Gennaker, then poled out Yankee and finally motored in Kampos Bay, talk about using our full sail inventory, we had discussed putting the staysail out as well. The wind picked up as predicted, we stayed two nights, going for a walk to the top of the cliff with Paul and Gloria Scallywag, followed by lunch. We decided to make use of the 15kt NW wind on the Monday to sail to Mykonos. We left the bay at 06:45 with 2 reefs in the main, shook one out a couple of hours later, and then motored for another couple of hours. Paul called us to say they had lost a motor, Scallywag is a catamaran, and were diverting to a nearby island to sort it out. We carried on, the wind picked up to 30 plus knots with lumpy seas, Paul then called to say they had lost both motors and we advised them we were diverting to Dhenoussa, downwind from where we were. They agreed, they had managed to get one motor working, and altered course to the same island. We anchored in the bay next to the town on Dhenoussa; unfortunately, Scallywag could not get into the bay on just one motor and therefore carried on to Naxos. Once anchored we realised it was a “clothes optional” bay, naked bodies on the beach and in swimming. As the breeze died, the anchorage became a little rolly, not great but OK for a reasonable night’s sleep.
What a difference 24hrs makes, we woke the following morning to no wind and motor sailed across to Ornos Bay on Mykonos. Unfortunately our auto pilot had stopped working the previous day, so it looks like we will be hand steering until we can get this one repaired or a new one.
How many super yachts can you get in one bay? Dol looks like a tender for most of them. After lunch we took the bus into Mykonos, it runs 24hrs from Ornos, every hour then half hour. Mykonos town is a labyrinth of small streets, lots of tourist shops, every brand name you can think of and the busiest place we have been for a while. We went to the Port Authority to check in, but it was closed with no notice to say when they would be open, we therefore went grocery shopping. The butchers shop didn’t open till 17:30 so we had a drink at the bar next door and used their wifi to find the Vodafone shop for internet top up. Asking the barman how long it would take to walk, the owner of the bar offered to take Brian on his motorbike. The butchers shop was again very good and we returned to Dol about 18:30 for a quiet night.